La Paulee Dinner at Recette (Recette): Really quite lovely. Certainly very ripe, with sweet, concentrated blackberry fruit, but without the overripe roasted quality that many wines have in this vintage. Rich and powerful but not heavy. Not super complex, but still excellent.
Not your typical Santenots and there's definitely more vintage expression than terroir expression in this Volnay. However, it is has well balanced rounded tannins in balance with its acidity and red fruit expression on the palate. I see it developing a nice medium long finish on the end. Beautiful in a word.
Closed on the nose. This wine is 23 years old? Very large frame, seems to be 6 years old and a Faiveley Mazis or Beze. Structure is huge for its age. Black berry mixture on the palate; mierality and lead\graphite. Tarry or asphalt notes with some bitterness at the end of the palate. Tannins are not out of balance with the fruit, it is just so thoroughly different than what I expect from a Lafon Volney. I think immediately of the debate concerning the 1990 Vogue Musigny and the 1990 Comte Armand Epeneaux.
Can't say I really enjoyed this with cheese on Day 1 -- will have to try it again in the morning with some pork.
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(Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du Milieu) (From magnum) Very deep colour - close to black. No obvious oak on the nose, but it’s so dense and unforgiving - perhaps this is a harsh adjective, but this wine is so fresh, linear and dense that it could be 2002 in presentation. The only clue to its age, is that the tannins have started to melt, but super concentration remains - it’s a tour-de-force - but wait for 2015. If there is one criticism, the wine doesn’t seem so long and is unlikely to gain length with extra age - but I’m still very, very impressed. Versus the Clerget Chambolle this has twice the depth & concentration, but the Clerget is significantly more refined - the choice is yours.