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  • An Offbeat 1987 Burgundy Birthday Dinner (and One Late Addendum); 10/4/2009-10/10/2009 (San Francisco): This came as a bolt from the blue after tasting through a bunch of '87 wines last weekend that did not deliver a fraction of the pleasure this bottle provided. Pale, mature colors. This has none of the artificial sweetness of those wines, just an achingly beautiful mature Burgundy nose of faded cherry and roses. Delicate with lovely fruit and acidity to balance, the tannins have totally receded, and the terroir is fully on display. I cannot emphasize how superior this was to other '87s simply because it lacked the telltale signs of chaptalization. After our recent experience, this far exceeded any expectations of how wines from this vintage could still show. Well done, Ponsot, one of the most maddeningly inconsistent producers on the planet.

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