This is all about subtlety. Everything is in balance, but it speaks in a whisper. The first sip doesn't show much at all other than a very refined texture, but the proportions are so waifish that the structure is just as subtle as the fruit. It doesn't pick up much weight with air, but it does pick up clarity, and if you're in a state of mind conducive to focusing on the wine you'll notice a nice stony layer. If you're not in the mood for deep thought then you'll just enjoy it as a highly drinkable Burgundy not terribly remarkable at this stage for much other than its elegance and gentility. Postscript--what a transformation in the leftovers the next day. Still elegant and supple, but it's developed a rich, sticky sappiness that gives it much more substance and grip and makes an incredibly satisfying sipper to keep coming back to.
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