Morey-St Denis Grand Cru Dinner (Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck, Paragon): Pretty nice. This was better than the other negociant bottling – a 2002 Girardin Clos de la Roche – that was on the same flight. It started out a bit grumpy on the nose - all meat and earth and indistinct fruit. With time though, it opened up beautifully with notes of sweet cherries and red berries, then flowers and powdered spice, all wed to the more savoury, meaty notes that I first picked up. Very attractive. Unusually for a Clos St Denis, this had a rather masculine feel at first, showing tight little notes of dark fruit, earth and slightly herbal notes. Like the nose though, the palate also opened up nicely with time, showing clear notes of red cherries and darker berries lined with a bit of fruit peel. The Cantonese might say "kum kum". There was a nice sense of sinewy structure that gave the wine a good focus and precision as it moved beyond the midpalate and into a long finish, where darker fruit notes were met with a little dusting of dried herb and flowers. Nice. It probably needs a little more time though. Try again in 2017-2018.
With dinner at the Ledbury. Ruby red with a fading rim. Sweet delicate nose of red berries, cherries. Elegant, gossamer, silky smooth palate. Picked up a little weight throughout the evening. Slightly bitter finish. Very satisfying.
Medium ruby, youthful. An initial whiff of funk gave way to sour cherries and some herbs. First impression was that this was quite feminine for a Morey cru, but then it gained some weight and the fruit was typically tangy and became more chunky. Very good but lacks the intensity and length to truly be Grand Cru quality.
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