2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett trocken #5

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/16/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (KABINETT trocken Graacher Himm #5 SELBACH OSTER) 2007 German Dear Friends, This has been a house-wine of sorts for me over the last few months and I've finally convinced Johannes to send a parcel to the US. Those of you partial to Alsatian Riesling or even the better examples from the Kremstal will be perfectly wowed by this example that is not typically distributed to our shores. For rarity's sake alone, it's worth far more than the asking price - for a summer's eve spent on the veranda, it's just what the doctor ordered. I do not have a significant quantity of this so I will limit my comments to the following: this is one of Johannes' favorite trocken wines of the vintage and (in a year that favored Kabinett), it shimmers like the sun bouncing off the Mosel toward the rocky face of the steep slopes above. They produce so little of the Graacher-Himmelreich that it's almost a pet project - most of it stays in the Mosel or in southern Germany (it is a particular favorite with sommeliers). For me, there's nothing like a lightly styled Kabinett to awaken the spirit (and the tastebuds) - this wine does just that...without the sugar. The fuder #5 tastes of pure, fresh-pressed Riesling from the Himmelreich, vinified dry with a beautiful texture from the exemplary fruit. It is piquant (in the best sense) with a lemon and dark soil character that lingers like a lazy afternoon spent with the best of friends. It packs all the terroir and vibrancy of the vineyard on a delicate 2007 stage for all to see but it also leaves hidden secrets in reserve. In my opinion, many of you will enjoy this style more than the sweet examples that have become progressively higher in pradikat over the last decade (i.e., Kabinett pushing the bounds of Spatlese, Spatlese knocking on Auslese, etc). It's become very difficult to find true, traditional Kabinett in the Mosel (at the very lowest end of the pradikat scale) but this dry Riesling fills a much needed void left by the heavier take on Kabinett that has become a trend since 2001. This price for a new release Graacher-Himmelreich? Sounds impossible but it is isn't. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a gorgeous peak through the looking-glass at the dry wine revolution taking place in Germany (not to mention the price is absurdly low for something of this quality). This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2007 Selbach-Oster Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (trocken) fuder #5 (this is a full 750ml) It will ship during the spring shipping season (late). Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Germ7751