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 1/24/2013 (MIT)
 

 

A survey of red grapes (plus Cloudy Bay).

 

  • 2012 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
    Brought in to compensate for the flawed Sancerre yesterday. Strong lychee note in addition to gooseberry and a touch of grass. Not as harsh as many NZ SBs. Good acid but also a fair amount of body. A touch too bitter on the finish, forcing the finish to retreat entirely to the throat. Excellent, but not outstanding. And criminally overpriced these days. 13.5%, $33. (89 pts.)
  • 2011 Crios de Susana Balbo Rosé of Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
    A little smoky/warm. Nose has a worrying note a "cheap red wine" (a headache lurks). Fortunately, this is only a minor element once it's in the mouth - pretty pleasant, a little residual sugar. Fatter than many rosés, and a touch too alcoholic, but not half bad. 14%, $13. (85 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine Cheveau Saint-Amour En Rontey - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Saint-Amour
    Darker than I expected. Quite a rich nose - warm plum, redcurrant, baked strawberries. A touch too late (read: empty) on the palate, but actually very pleasant. A touch of volatile acidity, but excellent balance. 13%, $22. (88 pts.)
  • 2006 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
    SO GOOD! This nose is dominated by sweet ripe plum flesh, spicy wood and a gentle floral note. Light to medium tannin, a touch spiky, warm and elegant fruit, and a fair amount of oak - verging on too much for me, but just about staying in check. Not overdone in any way, this handles its 14.5% alcohol like a champ. Drinking beautifully now but still plenty of room to grow. 1288 cases. 14.5%, $48. (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Fratelli Brovia Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
    Pretty interesting nose dominated by cherry drops, with a touch of oak. A bit vinous, not in a good way. Shows pretty well on the palate - this cherry drop note running through the whole thing and re-emerging on the finish is really - to me - what keeps this from being just another drinkable but dreary Barbera d'Asti. 13.5%, $24. (87 pts.)
  • 2007 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
    Not the best wine of the evening but possibly my favorite. A little funky on the nose, slightly vegetal - almost like Im smelling the vine. In contrast to the claims of this being past it, I actually think this needs a little more time. This is a Goldilocks wine for me - everything is juuuust right. Perfectly ripe - not overripe - fruit, potential for improvement, lots of ripe raspberry and cranberry but something deeper, too. Not too alcoholic either, and a pretty fair price in my book - 12%, $26. (90 pts.)
  • 2004 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Cultus Boni - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    By rights I should be scoring this higher. After 1 hour's decanting: lovely savory, meaty nose, a touch oxidized, a touch raisined. Very high acid, but kept in check by the rich, spicy fruit. Medium chalky tannins. But too hot and uninspiring. This wine is technically virtually flawless but it does not grab me. Of all this wines this evening, I did not find myself craving more of this. 14.5%, $33. (89 pts.)
  • 2003 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Musky, leathery, baked fruit, balsamic, and - I rarely use this descriptor, but it really is appropriate here - pencil shavings. Still feels like a baby, but already stunning. Bold, tannic, peppery, warm & rich. Should improve further. 14%, $64. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Winery Merlot Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
    I remain unconvinced by this line. Overripe fruit (lots of blackberry) and blood come through on the nose and palate. Too hot - alcohol is totally out of whack on this one. 93% Merlot, 3% Cab. Franc, 2% Cab. Sauv., 2% Malbec. 14.5%, $23. (84 pts.)
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Touch of blackcurrant, but otherwise not much going on on the nose. Classic Cali Cab profile but feels a little dilute. Not as hot as the Merlot, but not as great an intensity of fruit, either. Surprisingly short finish. Better balanced than the Merlot. Very pleasant but not much more. Another disappointing wine from Mondavi. 75% Cab Sauv., 11% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc, 2% Syrah, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. 14.5%, $25. (86 pts.)
  • 2007 Ridge Zinfandel Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
    Black grape + cranberry + plum nose. Pretty vanillic - plenty of oak. Very juicy, fruity palate - tastes a lot like candy. Extremely tasty if you like that kind of thing. A little over-the-top for me, but excellent stuff regardless. 100% Zinfandel. 14.5%, $29. (89 pts.)
  • 1994 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Whole peppercorns and spicy spicy fruit. Very vibrant - plenty of acidity, medium tannin, perfect low-medium oaking. I rarely call wines elegant, but this is a beauty, and so youthful! A shame it's so expensive. 13.5%, $125. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
    Very intense. Almond, prune, plum skin, raisined, very fruity and delicious. Very alcoholic - if a wine is going to be this overpowering, it had better be absolutely mind-bogglingly delicious. This doesn't quite manage. 15%, $86. (89 pts.)

Mondavis disappoint as ever, Amarone not really my thing, much love for the Chinon.

 


 
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