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 3/9/2013 (Metropolitan Pavilion, NYC)
 

 

This year, I decided, it would be different. I would strategically plan and order the first handful of producers, ensuring I hit all producers I didn't want to miss, so that I wasn't faced with that horrible frustration of arriving late to a producer only to find one pathetic entry-level wine remaining alone like a tiny, pathetic tower of sadness over a filthy tablecloth with a shrugging producer behind it.

So I tried to order them from wispy reds to bulkier more potent ones, and decided I'd forestall the acid teeth and gums attack that is good Chablis 'til the end.

I also decided to be square on time this time, and to take occasional food doodle breaks, to help my head and palate stay aligned. I must've eaten 10 different amazing Michelin star whatever doodles, and it really helped. In a delicious way.

The Sensodyne regimen started today, and I'm coping well. Jane is passing out on the couch, "I am unwell...mistakes were made", but it was so worth it, because:

2010 is an awe-inspiring vintage, and this was truly exhilarating. I really would bet this'll be the greatest lineup I'll see for some time. Whereas typically, you leave one of these things with two or so "holy shit I have to get that" bottles, in this case, it's just all so damned gorgeous, I've almost no idea where to start.

I'm here at home now, sniffing the two leftover Paulée glasses which each contain half mL residuals of our last wines (Liger-Belair Echezeaux; Duband Charmes Chambertin), and I'm sense remembering how bright, upright, floral and energetic the wines are. It's really there. The vast majority of the reds are almost unswervingly bright, floral, with a fresh, red fruit jam, a slathering of minerality, and some juicy, bitter crab apple acid to finish neatly and bring freshness to the jammy red fruit. Oh, and the whites are electric, mineral monsters that outshine the 08s by a mile to my palate.

So here was my "wispy to brawny" game plan order: Chandon de Briailles, Comtes Lafon, Georges Roumier, Hudelot Noellat, Liger-Belair (my obsession, the biggest excitement of the Paulée for me), Fourrier, Dujac.

I'd "mistasted" the Chandon de Briailles last Paulée--couldn't sense them they were so wispy. Very glad I started with them, and I wasn't the only one that thought to start here. "Good place to start!" Funny, and I guess a hint of egotistical douchebaggery how I and the gentleman aside me were on some level congratulating ourselves for starting here.

Haven't tasted too much Roumier prior to the Paulée, I'd imagined Chambolle lace; more heavy fruit than I'd've imagined.

I wish I'd've gone: Chandon de Briailles, Lafarge, Hudelot Noellat, Comtes Lafon, Georges Roumier, Liger-Belair (my obsession, the biggest excitement of the Paulée for me), Fourrier, Dujac...

Here we are: forgive the repetitive descriptors, but that's just how it goes in these blitzkrieg rapid tastings.

 

 


 
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