| | This moderated tasting was attended by panelists Veronique Boss Drouhin, Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel (of Domaine Louis Michel), Christian Moreau, and Didier Seguier (of Domaine William Fevre). The following wines were presented in this order, marching up the Chablis hierarchy. I did not note the color of the 2011s since they were all properly pale and greenish. - 2012 Domaine Hervé Azo Petit Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis
Bright citrus aromatics. Light, tart green citrus, good soil. Not great length or feel, but it is snappy and filled out a bit with air. Good starting point for a Chablis tasting.
- 2011 Joseph Drouhin / Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis
Slight sulfur. Deeper, more brothy nose than the Petit Chablis. Appealing light to medium weight, fruit is downplayed. Lovely structure-fine back end minerality and limestone. Tart finish with a coating of soil and a hay note that called to mind Savennieres of all things. This is excellent for the village level.
- 2011 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Combination of saline notes and lime. Lots of oyster shell and dense aromatic impression. A touch of front end honey, orange/lemon fruit, wood apparent throughout. Solid but gentle, and does sweeten and loosen up over time. The oak dulls the finish.
- 2011 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Ripe fruit with some salty elements. Light and elegant. Green herbs, picks up some interesting spice and nice dusting of minerality. Slightly low in acidity, not nearly as muscular as the Brocard. Pretty in an easygoing, drinkable style. Soft finish.
- 2011 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Delicately floral and pungent, forward blood orange-exciting nose! Very clean, medium weight. Creamy and expansive. Strongly mineral finish only detracted a bit by some wood that has not been absorbed. This is superb overall.
- 2001 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Healthy yellow color. Not surprisingly, completely different than the young pups. Brooding, complex, truffled aromatics with faint mushroom. This retained freshness for over an hour in the glass, so oxidation is not a concern. Weighty and lush, some deeply pitched citrus remains. I liked the bitter pith at the end, but it is marred by a slightly off note that stays behind once you swallow it. Very interesting and better than most 2001 Chablis I've had.
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