Two evenings, two very different Fèvre Grand Cru experiences

By chance, on successive evenings I tasted double blind two William Fèvre Grand Crus ...

• 2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
  On the nose, lactic and creamy, suggesting pastry and very overripe Brie. 'Formaldehyde', someone said. Similar in the mouth, cheesy and milky. Lacking any Chardonnay, let alone Chablis, typicity, I guessed the wine to be a (very bad) Grüner Veltliner. Thierry thought it perhaps a Spanish white of some sort. On the reveal, clearly, badly premoxed. It had been well stored and there was no visible problem with the cork ... (FLAWED)
• 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
  Maritime, chalky, citric and breezy aromas, with barely a hint of oak. On bouquet alone, I was convinced this was a quality, probably Grand Cru, Chablis. In the mouth, my impressions were confirmed. Lovely, detailed notes of greengages, lemons and limes, with some pear. Relatively austere at its core. Great purity of fruit. Not showing excessive oak or exotic fruit notes. I guessed this might be a '12 Dauvissat Grand Cru, needing 3+ more years to be at its optimum. Sparking acids. On the reveal, 2007 wasn't a surprise. Mineral and a little saline on the long finish. (93 pts.)