| | Having explored Rome and Tuscany with our two grown children during the summer (Visiting Rome and Tuscany), we had the opportunity to take another European vacation. Unfortunately, our kids' work schedules precluded them from making the trip, so it was just the two of us. The impetus for the trip was a private invitation from the family of John MacKenna, esteemed Irish playwright and novelist, to attend his newest play, Between Your Love and Mine, a Requiem by Leonard Cohen. MacKenna had a long personal and professional relationship with Cohen before Cohen's death in 2016, and had been granted permission to use his music in creating the play. Our invitation was to view the play in Dublin with the MacKenna family and their friends on what would have been Leonard Cohen's 85th birthday...this was something that we simply could not turn down! Saturday, September 14 Our first destination was London. Las Vegas International offers daily nonstop British Airways flights to Heathrow. All flights for the entire trip were booked as business class. Arriving at Las Vegas International well in advance of our 9:30 pm departure, we were able to enjoy a nice meal in the airport's private club for international first class and business class passengers.
We subsequently boarded the spacious 747-400, where we were provided with excellent food and service. Our cubicles allowed full recumbency, so much of the the 10-hour flight was spent comfortably sleeping.
 Sunday, September 15 Arriving at approximately 3:30 pm (London time) on this day, we were a bit tired but anxious to experience the British vibe. Our private driver picked us up at Heathrow, taking us to our hotel, The Berkeley. Located in the Knightsbridge district of London, it is a five-star property with beautiful accommodations and impeccable service. Our room was luxurious and had a spacious balcony with impressive views.
After unpacking, we took a sunset stroll through nearby Hyde Park and then dined at Bar Boulud. Located within the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, it is a well-appointed restaurant that is similar to the Bar Boulud in New York (where we had previously dined).
Our meal began with a shared appetizer of seabass ceviche, served with watermelon, jalapeño, shiso and verjus. This was intensely flavorful, light, refreshing and brilliantly executed.
For her entrée, my wife ordered the red wine marinated Merrifield duck breast with fennel and cherries. This was visually stunning and equally delicious.
I opted for the hand-cut beef tartar, served with baby gem lettuce, cornichons, capers and mustard. This was a sizable portion that left me full and satisfied.
From Bar Boulud's wine list we ordered the 2015 Domaine André Mathieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which paired well with the latter two dishes. - 2015 Domaine André Mathieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/15/2019)
This medium ruby, Grenache-dominant Châteauneuf also includes multiple other allowed varietals (as all 13 are grown within the 9 acres that are used to make this cuvée). Beautifully aromatic and very feminine in character, it delivers aromas and flavors of raspberries, pit fruits, lavender, pipe tobacco and baking spices. Medium-bodied, seamlessly alcoholic (14.5%), lightly oaked and softly tannic, it maintains a fresh and fruity character that is pervasive throughout the middle palate and lengthy finish. Silky-textured and so easy to drink, this is a perfect restaurant wine. Enjoy it over the next five years or so. Drink now-2024. (91 pts.)
Monday, September 16 Our first full day in London began with a spectacular made-to-order breakfast which included items such as omelets, poached eggs, sausage, black pudding, sliced fruit, English cottage cheese, croissants, cappuccino, etc. This was the case for every morning of our stay at the Berkeley, where the dining room was elegant and the service outstanding.
After breakfast we set out on a privately-guided walking tour of London. Our guide, a native Brit named Angus Campbell (contracted through Guidelines to Britain), was extremely knowledgeable, presenting the U.K.'s history in a fascinating way. Throughout the day we visited Buckingham Palace, the Palace of Westminster, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, the London Tower (with its ceremonial guardians, the Beefeaters), the Tower Bridge and numerous beautiful parks.
Our favorite part of the tour were the Churchill War Rooms. These are the subterranean rooms where Winston Churchill and his staff worked and lived during World War II (while London was being regularly bombed by the Germans).
Our walking tour lasted more than eight hours. Full from breakfast, we did not desire to stop for lunch. At the conclusion of the tour, we returned to our room, refreshed ourselves and walked to The Alfred Tennyson gastropub (located within Knightsbridge not far from our hotel), where we enjoyed beer-battered haddock and chips, beef tartare and a bottle of Château Viramière.
Later in the evening, we nibbled on snacks and sipped a bottle of Château La Coste Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé (from the minibar) while watching TV. - 2014 Château Viramière - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion (9/16/2019)
Château Viramière's 2014 iteration is a deep ruby blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc that offers an attractive core of plum and red currant fruit, accented with exotic spices and tobacco. Medium-bodied, freshly acidic, lightly oaked and without any heat from its 13% alcohol, it wraps its flavors with soft tannins and stays dense on the mid-palate. The finish is a bit clipped, but this is a very respectable Bordeaux red for the price. Drink now-2024. (87 pts.)
- 2017 Château La Coste Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (9/16/2019)
This limpid, medium rust-colored rosé is an approximate blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Cinsault. Sampled from a 375 cc bottle, it is a vibrant, aromatic wine with a pleasant core of strawberry and red plum fruit, accented with notes of rose petals and wet stones. Light-bodied and with seamless alcohol (listed as 14%), it stays solid in the middle and closes with a tangy, medium-length finish. This is a great "warm weather wine" that will be at its best between now and the end of next summer. Drink now-2020. (89 pts.)
Tuesday, September 17 This was a day for shopping, eating and seeing a play. Following another excellent breakfast at the Berkeley, we strolled to nearby Harrods, arguably the world's most famous department store. A shopper could spend days within the multi-level store, which occupies a 5-acre city block and has 330 departments (covering 1.1 million square feet of retail space). It is the largest department store in Europe and lays claim to having its own unique postcode. We spent a few hours in the store, which went by quickly. Thereafter we strolled to a nearby wine shop, Jeroboams. A charming small store with a surprisingly good selection, we purchased a few bottles for later consumption.
After our day of shopping, we returned to the hotel, where we had a light lunch and shared a bottle of Versino Châteauneuf-du-Pape that we had just purchased at Jeroboam's.
In the early evening we took a taxi to Wilton's, a restaurant with roots dating back to 1742. Wilton's is an elegant, traditional-style restaurant with impeccable service and outstanding food.
Our dinner began with Jersey Rock oysters, which were perhaps the best raw oysters that I have ever had. Large, firm, extremely fresh and intensely flavorful, they were very memorable.
Next was chilled spiced Isle of Wight tomato soup, served with focaccia, taggiasca and olive oil.
To be paired with our main courses, we ordered a bottle of 2015 Fernand & Laurent Pillot Volnay from the restaurant's wine list, which was a very worthy partner for both dishes.
For her entrée, my wife ordered Dover sole meunière, which was beautifully prepared and tasted like it had been caught the same day.
I ordered the Rhug Estate venison, served with a king oyster mushroom and damson sauce. I absolutely love venison and will typically order it when offered on any restaurant's menu...this preparation was superb!
Very content after our outstanding experience at Wilton's, we taxied to the Aldwych Theatre, where we saw Tina-The Tina Turner Musical. The story was compelling and the performers were brilliant. Overall we greatly enjoyed the show.
 - 2016 Domaine Versino Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/17/2019)
This deep ruby Châteauneuf flaunts aromas and flavors of red bramble fruits, red currants, garrigue, licorice and pine nuts. Medium-to-full-bodied, fresh, judiciously oaked and with medium sweet tannins, it has good mid-palate density and a medium-length finish. Be sure to serve this wine at 60-65°F in order to keep the 15% alcohol in check. Drink now-2026. (90 pts.)
- 2015 Fernand & Laurent Pillot Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (9/17/2019)
Pillot's 2015 Volnay is a seductively aromatic Pinot that is effusive of red plums, cherries, violets, baking spices and orange zest. Medium-bodied, freshly acidic, judiciously oaked and with well-woven alcohol (listed as 13.5%), it delivers flavors mirroring the nose. The middle palate is layered, which is where the tannins exert their influence. Closing with a medium-to-long finish that carries some grip, this is a quality offering that will be even better with another year or two in the cellar. Drink 2021-2027. (91 pts.)
Wednesday, September 18 Our day began with yet another great Berkeley breakfast, this time including Scottish smoked salmon and baked ricotta, served with grapefruit, crushed avocado and poached eggs...my mouth waters as I type!
We next ventured to The London Eye, a cantilevered observation wheel on the South Bank of the River Thames. When it opened to the public in 2000 it was the world's tallest Ferris wheel at 443 feet tall (the current tallest Ferris wheel is the High Roller in our home town of Las Vegas, which stands at 548 feet). The views of London were breathtaking.
Following our ride on The London Eye, we stopped at The Sherlock Holmes pub for an authentic British gin and tonic...just what the doctor ordered!
The next stop on our journey was The National Gallery, an impressive museum that includes works of Leonard da Vinci, Vincent Van Gogh and a multitude of other renowned artists.
All of the art-observing made us hanker for another London libation. This time our pub-hopping led us to St. James Tavern, where we were served their signature take on a gin and tonic: Tanquerey Flor de Sevilla and Fever Tree Mediterranean tonic, garnished with orange. For those who can't get to St. James Tavern, this would be a good drink to master at home!
Our touring and pub-hopping behind us, we returned to our hotel to relax and refresh before setting out for our dinner destination, Andrew Edmunds. Located in the Soho area of London's West End and housed within an 18th century building, it is a relatively small, informal restaurant with a seasonal menu and reasonably priced wine list.
I began with steamed mussels that were prepared with shallots, tarragon and white wine, while my wife ordered a dressed crab with fennel sauce. The crab presentation was, to be honest, a bit creepy. That said, both dishes paired well with a half-bottle of J.M. Boillot Premier Cru Montagny, ordered from the restaurant's wine list.
As an entrée, my wife ordered roasted wild bass, served with chips, baby gem potatoes and red pepper aioli. I ordered roasted mallard with beetroot, red onions and capers. While the presentation of both dishes was a bit lacking, each was tasty and nicely enhanced with a bottle of 2010 Château Cantemerle (ordered from the wine list).
After returning to our hotel, we watched TV fairly late into the evening, during which time we had a glass of 2014 Antonin Guyon Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice from a bottle purchased the previous day at Jeroboams. - 2015 J.M. Boillot Montagny 1er Cru Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny 1er Cru (9/18/2019)
Sampled from a 375 cc bottle, this straw-colored Chardonnay flaunts a nice core of pit fruits, lime zest, honeysuckle and wet stones. Light-to-medium-bodied, freshly acidic and with a restrained amount of spicy oak, it maintains good energy throughout and shows no heat from its 13% alcohol. Finishing long and crisp, this is an excellent white Burgundy that is a standout for the appellation. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years. Drink now-2023. (91 pts.)
- 2010 Château Cantemerle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (9/18/2019)
This deep-to-opaque ruby wine is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Possessing a rich core of cassis, wild berries, truffle, lavender, clove and tobacco, it is a fresh, medium-to-full-bodied elixir with nicely integrated alcohol (13%) and oak. The tannins are substantial but quite fine-grained, giving the wine a silky texture despite its considerable structure. Layered on the mid-palate and long on the back end, this is an impressive Cantemerle that is now entering its drinking window. It should have good longevity. Drink now-2040. (94 pts.)
- 2014 Antonin Guyon Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (9/18/2019)
This medium-to-deep ruby wine delivers an attractive package of dark plums, Bing cherries, clove, cocoa and black tea. Medium-bodied, fresh, softly oaked and with nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 13%), it is dense on the mid-palate and has silky-textured tannins. Finishing long, this is an outstanding village-level Burgundy that should be at its best over the next 6-7 years. Drink now-2026. (91 pts.)
Thursday, September 19 This was our day to bid adieu to London and move on to Galway. We said our goodbyes to the staff at the Berkeley, who kindly provided us with an early-morning room service breakfast before we left. Our driver took us to Heathrow, where we took an Aer Lingus flight to Shannon Airport, located in County Clare. A small regional airport without jet bridges, Shannon is approximately 55 miles south of Galway (located on the western side of the island).
We were met by our driver and thoroughly enjoyed the scenic excursion to our hotel in Galway, The g Hotel & Spa.
While waiting for our room, we lunched at the hotel on a hummus plate along with a plate of fish and chips.
Our suite at the g was expansive and luxurious, with a spacious living room area and an equally spacious bathroom. The double overhead showers were particularly enjoyable, considering that such showers have become quite scarce in the western U.S. due to water constraints.
Shortly after unpacking, we rendezvoused with my wife's sister and husband, with whom we would be spending our time in Ireland. The four of us met in the hotel bar, where we experienced the g's take on a gin and tonic. This was unquestionably the best gin and tonic that any of us had ever experienced. Made with Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish gin and Fever Tree Indian tonic, it was garnished with juniper berries and a wedge of grapefruit. For me, this will be the gold standard by which any other gin and tonic will be judged.
After having our drink at the g's bar, the four of us strolled across the street, where we dined in the gastropub at the Huntsman Inn. The food was local, fresh, simple and good. The Atlantic seafood chowder, steamed mussels, steak with onion rings and fries, salmon and chickpea/lentil/sweet potato curry were enjoyable and paired well with the red and white wines that were simultaneously ordered for the table (Weingut Waltner Grüner Veltliner Steinberz and McPherson Wines Shiraz Little Rascal). Being able to spend time with family was priceless!
 - 2018 Weingut Waltner Grüner Veltliner Steinberz - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram (9/19/2019)
Bottled under screwcap, this wine has some initial reductive notes and a slight spritz, but both quickly dissipate. Light in body and color, it is a crisp white that exudes attractive notes of jasmine, honeysuckle, kiwi, citrus and pit fruits. Vibrantly acidic, mineral-laden and without any alcoholic heat (13%), it has good mid-palate presence and finishes with medium length. Pair this with grilled white fish or similar fare. Drink now-2021. (88 pts.)
- 2017 McPherson Wines Shiraz Little Rascal - Australia, South Eastern (9/19/2019)
This medium-to-deep ruby wine offers an attractive core of dark bramble fruit that is accented with baking spices and light notes of earth. Medium-bodied, fresh, softly tannic, minimally oaked and with nicely integrated alcohol (14.0%), it retains good presence on the middle palate and finishes with medium length. This is enjoyable, albeit lacking in complexity. It should be at its best over the next 3-4 years. Drink now-2023. (85 pts.)
Friday, September 20 This was to be a very busy day, with plans for a tour of the coastline. Our accommodations at the g included daily breakfast, with an elaborate buffet spread (as well as numerous selections on the menu).
Throughout our stay in Galway, all limousine services were provided by Celtic Chauffeur Services. On this day, our chauffeur and private guide was Celtic's owner, Fergus Lally. A native Irishman with a great personality and impressive knowledge of Irish history, it was a real treat to be escorted by him.
Our Mercedes van set out along the coast, with the ultimate goal of reaching the Cliffs of Moher. Suffice it to say that the scenery was awe-inspiring.
A stop at Dunguaire Castle was followed shortly thereafter by a stop at a small fishing village. It is here that we learned what a "Galway hooker" is (a small fishing sailboat), as well as what it means when an Irishman refers to "good craic" (prounounced "crack," meaning fun). The town's farmers market was indeed good craic, as I was able to devour some delicious oysters harvested from the local bay only 30 minutes prior.
Our next stop was a tiny family-owned chocolate factory, located in a remote area of the Burren (northwestern County Clare), Hazel Mountain Chocolate. We were greeted by the owner and given a tour of the facility. Thereafter, we sampled the various chocolates. An attached bakery, cafe and gift shop resulted in some purchases for friends and relatives at home.
Our journey subsequently took us to Corcomroe Abbey, which functioned as a Cistercian monastery from the late 12th century to the mid 16th century. The Abbey still serves as a cemetery, where burials are occasionally performed for families with reserved plots.
Next on our list of stops was the Aillwee Cave Farm Shop, where we were taught about the process of making their famous Burren Gold cheese.
The spectacular Cliffs of Moher were subsequently seen by way of an hour-long boat trip. The views were absolutely breathtaking. After disembarking, we stopped for a "perfectly pulled pint" of Guinness at Gus O'Connor's Pub in Doolin.
Seeing the Cliffs of Moher from the top would normally involve quite a bit of hiking, but Fergus was able to drive us to the top by virtue of his relationship with a private property owner, where we were able to park our vehicle and literally walk only a few yards to the cliff's edge. It was a special treat to be able to view the cliffs from sea and land, with both vantage points offering distinct perspectives.
Our return trip to the hotel was by way of an inland route that was quicker but less scenic. After relaxing for a bit at the hotel, we strolled to downtown Galway. During the walk, we stopped at a historic cemetery, part of which contains the remains of Spanish Armada sailors who were killed by the British during the failed Spanish invasion in the late 16th century.
Upon the recommendation of Fergus, we dined a popular local eatery, McDonagh's, where we enjoyed raw oysters, sautéed prawns, steamed mussels and (of course) fish and chips. Our seafood dishes paired well with a bottle of Southern Lights Sauvignon Blanc, ordered from the wine list.
After dinner, we sauntered the streets of Galway, ultimately stopping for a pint at The Dáil Bar.
Later in the evening we enjoyed a glass of Havalos Malbec with snacks while watching TV and reflecting on our wonderful day. - 2018 Southern Lights Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough (9/20/2019)
Pale yellow/green, light-bodied and crisply acidic, this Sauvignon Blanc (bottled under screwcap) is refreshing from start to finish. With a core of gooseberry, pit fruits, honeydew and wet stones, it delivers a delicious, unoaked, tangy package without noticeable alcohol (12.5%). Although the middle palate thins a bit, the resurrected finish is vibrant and medium in length. This should be at its best over the next couple of years. Drink now-2021. (88 pts.)
- 2018 Hávalos Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza (9/20/2019)
This medium-to-deep ruby wine offers up-front red currant and cranberry fruit, accented with notes of coriander, licorice and orange zest. Medium-bodied, fresh, lightly tannic and without detectable oak, it is an easy-drinker by virtue of its soft textures and lack of any heat from its 13.5% alcohol. Unfortunately the middle palate hollows out and the finish is somewhat clipped. This would best be consumed in its youth. Drink now-2022. (84 pts.)
Saturday, September 21 This was another travel day, but following breakfast at the g we still had an hour or so to meander along the streets of Galway. The charm of the town was enhanced by a weekend farmers market, where local produce and Irish accents abounded!
The trip from Galway to Dublin, approximately 130 miles due east, was scenic and comfortable. Our driver pointed out various sights along the way, including those within the city of Dublin. We arrived at our destination, Dylan Hotel, in the early afternoon. The Dylan is a five-star boutique in Dublin's south city centre, just off of Baggot Street.
After checking in, we were able to explore the local area a bit on foot. The neighborhood is pristine, with a beautiful park directly across the street.
Part of our neighborhood expedition included a stop at Baggot Street Wines, where we purchased a few bottles. After strolling back to the room, the four of us enjoyed a bottle of Domaine des Brosses Sancerre.
This day would have been Leonard Cohen's 85th birthday. As noted, this was the day when we would view Between Your Love and Mine with John MacKenna's family and friends. Our family had kindly been invited by John's father-in-law, Michael Keogh. A "pre-party" at Alfie Byrne's (located in the Conrad Hotel), was followed by a tremendous performance at the Dublin National Concert Hall. The play is not a requiem for Leonard Cohen, but instead a requiem by Leonard Cohen. The theatrical requiem was written by John MacKenna in memory of some young friends who had died. It follows the form of a traditional funeral mass, using Mr. Cohen's songs and lyrics. The project was approved by Mr. Cohen shortly prior to his death in 2016, and the man whom he trusted to manage his estate, Robert Kory, ensured that it ultimately made it to the stage.
The play's program:
Dublin National Concert Hall:
Michael Keogh (center):
John MacKenna (center) and Michael Keogh (right):
Robert Kory (center):
After a wonderful evening, the four of us returned to the hotel, where we discussed the play, talked about our kids, nibbled on some snacks and sipped on a couple of red wines (Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition and Château La Grave Figeac). - 2017 Domaine des Brosses Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (9/21/2019)
This light golden Sauvignon Blanc delivers a nice combination of fruit and herbal elements. Citrus, stone fruits and melon are balanced with notes of chervil and lemongrass. Light-bodied, crisply acidic and without noticeable alcohol (listed as 13%), it builds on the mid-palate and closes with a lengthy, saline-laden finish. Drink now-2023. (91 pts.)
- 2015 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/21/2019)
Bosquet des Papes' 2015 Cuvée Tradition is a deep ruby blend of 75% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 1% Vaccarèse, 1% Counoise and 1% Cinsault. Packed with dark bramble fruits, garrigue, licorice, coriander and pipe tobacco, it is a freshly acidic, medium-bodied wine with sweet tannins, modest wood and nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 15%). Layered and dense on the middle palate, this is a hedonistic Châteauneuf that has no rough edges. Long and smooth on the back end, it should remain very enjoyable over the next 7-8 years. Drink now-2027. (91 pts.)
- 2016 Château La Grave Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (9/21/2019)
Château La Grave Figeac's 2016 iteration is a deep-to-opaque ruby blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc that is loaded with black currant and black cherry fruit, augmented with spice cake, licorice, tobacco and earth. Medium-to-full-bodied, fresh, judiciously oaked and with medium tannins that carry some grip, it picks up weight on the middle palate and finishes with good length. Minimal time in the cellar will allow this to reach its full potential. Drink 2021-2036. (92 pts.)
Sunday, September 22 Our accommodations at the Dylan included made-to-order breakfast each morning, with a nice menu of egg dishes, wraps, pancakes, breakfast meats, etc.
This was our day to tour Dublin, which was arranged through Pro Bus & Car. We had a driver and separate tour guide, and were escorted to our destinations comfortably in a new Mercedes van.
Early in our journey we stopped at Ireland's presidential residence, Áras an Uachtaráin, located in the Phoenix Park of Dublin.
Our next stop was EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum. This new museum is a "must see" for anyone visiting Dublin. It tells the fascinating story of Irish emigration over the centuries, explaining how those with Irish heritage have helped to shape the history of countries throughout the world. As the visitor moves from room to room (display to display), his or her "passport" is stamped by a machine. Creative and informative, it was thoroughly enjoyable.
Following EPIC, we drove to Dublin's Trinity College, where we viewed the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript of the four gospels of the Christian New Testament dating back to the ninth century. Photos of the book itself were not allowed.
After viewing the Book of Kells, we continued our tour of the Trinity College Library, which is the permanent home to the Brian Boru harp (the national symbol of Ireland) and a copy of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic.
By the time we left the library, we were all hungry and yearning for a pint. Our driver and tour guide took us to Nancy Hands Bar & Restaurant. This cozy eatery oozes everything Irish!!! We all enjoyed beer battered fresh Atlantic haddock, mushy peas, seafood chowder, shepherd's pie...and, of course, a "perfectly pulled pint" of Guinness.
With our tummies filled, we moved on to Jameson Distillery, where we were treated to an educational whisky blending course. During the process of tasting multiple Jameson bottlings, we did our own blending and bottled our own product. Later in the day the four of us did a blind tasting of our products...my wife's blend won!
Following our Jameson experience, we returned to our hotel for some rest before our planned dinner at Bloom Brasserie. This eatery had been highly recommended by our tour guide. A quaint restaurant with stone walls and wine bottles in wrought iron-covered alcoves, it offers a menu of locally sourced meat and fish dishes that are delicious in their simplicity. Needless to say, it additionally offers a good variety of wine selections.
We ordered a variety of dishes, which included cauliflower bisque, salad of Pinot Noir poached pear (with Cashel blue cheese, candied walnuts and honey citrus dressing), caramelized king scallops, sautéed whole gambas (in lemon and garlic), courgette and garden pea risotto, 35 day dry-aged Irish ribeye steak (with slow-roasted tomato, green beans and Café de Paris butter) and filet of prime Irish angus beef (served with truffled pomme purée, baby onions, spinach smoked Alsatian bacon).
The various dishes paired well with the wine list's Laurence Race Chablis and Domaine de l'Espigouette Vacqueyras, although the former was lacking in acidity.
Later in the evening, the four of had snacks at the hotel and enjoyed a bottle of Château Saint-Roch (Languedoc) Côtes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes, purchased from nearby Baggot Street Wines the same day. - 2017 Domaine Laurence Race Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis (9/22/2019)
Limpid and light golden in color, Laurence Race's 2017 Chablis offers pear and pit fruit aromas and flavors, accented with notes of saline and wet stones. Light-bodied, unoaked and without noticeable alcohol (12.5%), it has decent mid-palate presence but lacks the acidic verve that would be expected of a Chardonnay from this appellation. This lack of vibrancy carries out to the somewhat clipped finish. While not unpleasant, this Chablis is simply unexciting...and accordingly unmemorable. Drink now-2022. (83 pts.)
- 2016 Domaine de l'Espigouette (Bernard Latour) Vacqueyras - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras (9/22/2019)
This opaque ruby wine is an approximate blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. Pure and racy, it offers a mix of blackberry compote, earthy black cherry, Provençal herbs and licorice. Full-bodied, judiciously oaked and with nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 14.5%), it wraps its flavors with ample tannins that carry some grip. Dense on the middle palate, it goes on to finish with good length. This will get better with another year or two in the cellar. Drink 2021-2026. (90 pts.)
- 2017 Château Saint-Roch (Languedoc) Côtes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes Syrah-Grenache - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon (9/22/2019)
Done in a soft and gentle style, this deep ruby/crimson wine (an unspecified blend of Syrah and Grenache) is laden with ripe boysenberry fruit, framed with notes of lavender and spice. Medium-bodied and with low-to-medium acidity, it is a softly tannic, lightly oaked wine that throws no heat from its 14.5% alcohol when served at the appropriate temperature. Solid in the middle and medium in length on the back end, this is an enjoyable, albeit not particularly complex red. Drink now-2022. (86 pts.)
Monday, September 23 On this day, we had breakfast then said our goodbyes to family, who would spend another week in Ireland while we visited Paris. Our Air France flight left Dublin Airport bound for Charles de Gaulle in Paris. The aircraft was one that I had never experienced, an Avro Avroliner RJ-85 (Quad-Jet). This small jet was comfortable and very quiet. Despite the fact that the flight's duration was little more than two hours, the Air France crew served us a nice lunch that included two respectable wines (2017 Trénel Fils Mâcon-Villages and 2017 Les Contreforts de Beau-Site). We were impressed with how the Air France crew managed their time. They served the lunches in a relaxed, non-hurried fashion, which made our flight quite enjoyable. Our excitement level was ratcheted up when we began viewing the French homeland from the plane.
Upon arrival, we were met by our driver from Chabé, the firm that would provide all of our transportation and private excursion services during our stay in Paris. This is definitely a first-class company, with beautiful Mercedes vehicles, excellent drivers and knowledgeable tour guides.
Paris is divided into districts. The higher the number of the district, the farther away it is from the "heart" of the city. Our hotel, Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal, is in District 1.
The hotel itself is beautiful. Our deluxe room (booked through a Virtuoso agent) was well-appointed, albeit a bit small by American standards. Our balcony looked directly across at the Palais, which had been the home of the longest reigning king of France, Louis XIV.
Our room included a nice note from the hotel's manager, with a bottle of nonvintage Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial and a tray of petit fours. Sipping the Champagne and nibbling on the petit fours was a great way to begin our Parisian vacation.
When we ultimately departed from the hotel six days later, we realized that the best part of our stay was our concierge, "Jeremy." A fountain of Parisian knowledge, he guided us to numerous restaurants and sites, sometimes actually walking with us to the destination. Personnel such as Jeremy make or break a hotel. The Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal is a five-star property because of employees like him.
Our first night in Paris was spent at a dining destination recommended by Jeremy, Chez Monsieur.
Within easy walking distance of our hotel, Chez Monsieur is a chic bistro with classic French dishes and an excellent wine list. The food was outstanding and paired well with the bottle of Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny that we ordered from the wine list.
I started with the tomato gazpacho, served with Parmasiano cheese crumble and basil coulis.
My wife began with duck foie gras terrine, served with marinated grapes and balsamic.
For my entrée, I ordered duck breast from Vendée, served with roasted figs, carrots and porto juice.
My wife ordered Chez Monsieur's signature blanquette de veau (veal stew), served by our waiter from cocotte.
[img]https://photos.smugmug.com/Visiting-London-Ireland-France-2019/i-9FpFQJN/0/0a0094d2/X4/20190923_205134-X4.jpg/img]
Later in the evening, we enjoyed a half bottle of Albert Bichot Chablis (from the minibar) while snacking and watching TV. - 2017 Trénel Fils Mâcon-Villages - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages (9/23/2019)
Tasted from a 187 cc screw-cap bottle served with lunch on a commercial airline flight, this straw-colored Chardonnay proved itself to be quite acceptable. Citrus, pear, verbena and wet stone aromas and flavors are framed with fresh acidity and nicely integrated alcohol (13%). Without detectable oak, it stays light on its feet throughout a solid mid-palate and medium-length finish. Drink now-2022. (86 pts.)
- 2017 Les Contreforts de Beau-Site - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (9/23/2019)
Sampled from a 187 cc bottle while on a commercial airline flight, this deep ruby/crimson wine offers a core of black currants, licorice, loamy earth and bay leaf. Medium-bodied, fresh, judiciously oaked, softly tannic and without alcoholic heat (13%), it stays dense on the middle palate and finishes with medium length. Already drinkable, this wine should (in 750 cc format) remain viable for several more years. Drink now-2025. (86 pts.)
- N.V. Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial - France, Champagne (9/23/2019)
Sampled from a bottle with the disgorgement identifier of LALEU, this pale yellow Champagne sports a brisk small bead. With moderately intense aromas of citrus, pear, ginger and almond, it goes on to deliver comparable flavors on a light-to-medium-bodied, vibrantly acidic palate. While the middle is solid and the finish medium in length, there is not much yeastiness or complexity to make this nonvintage offering stand out in the crowd. Consume this particular bottling over the next 2-3 years. Drink now-2022. (88 pts.)
- 2014 La Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (9/23/2019)
This deep ruby wine is the expression of purity and finesse. Highly perfumed and floral on the nose, it leads with violet and lavender, subsequently buttressed with black cherry, orange zest and Asian spices. Medium-bodied, freshly acidic, judiciously oaked and with medium-weight tannins, it delivers flavors mirroring the aromas. The wine's alcohol (listed as 13%) is nicely integrated and the mid-palate is dense. Finishing with impressive length, this is an outstanding village-level red Burgundy that is just entering its drinking window. Enjoy it over the next five years. Drink now-2024. (91 pts.)
- 2015 Maison Albert Bichot Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis (9/23/2019)
Sampled from a 375 cc bottle, Bichot's 2015 Chablis is a limpid, light yellow Chardonnay with straightforward aromas and flavors of green apples, lemon and jasmine. Light-bodied, crisply acidic, seamlessly alcoholic (12.5%) and without detectable oak, it thins a bit on the mid-palate but resurrects a medium-length, mineral-laden finish. The middle palate is a bit problematic at this point in the wine's life, as it should have filled in by now. Accordingly, I would not expect this to get any better with additional cellaring. Drink now-2022. (86 pts.)
Tuesday, September 24 Each morning during our stay at the Grand Hotel du Royal Palais included a wonderful breakfast of buffet items as well as made-to-order egg dishes.
Our day began with a tour of the Eiffel Tower. Constructed from 1887 to 1889 as the entrance to the 1889 World's Fair, it is the tallest structure in Paris and a global icon. How fun it was to ascend the tower and experience the views of the city!
After visiting the Eiffel Tower, we strolled the streets of Paris, stopping at Nicolas (a wine and spirits purveyor with stores throughout the city) on Rue Saint-Honoré, where we purchased a few bottles for later consumption during our trip.
After a fun morning filled with lots of walking, we returned to our hotel, where we had lunch in the dining room. Both of our dishes were fantastic and paired well with a bottle of Maillard Chorey-les-Beaune.
My wife ordered creamy burrata breaded with gomasio, served with cherry tomatoes, ginger and cucumber jelly. I enjoyed a perfectly executed plate of fusilli alla puttanesca.
During the evening, we dined at Eels, which had been recommended by our friend who frequently travels to Paris on business. Located in the 10th district in a tastefully remodeled couscous parlor, Eels is where talented young chef Adrien Ferrand has stepped out on his own. The atmosphere is warm and comfortable, a perfect setting in which to devour his scrumptious dishes that are creative and perfectly executed.
For her first course, my wife ordered the restaurant's signature dish: smoked eels (apple and hazelnuts, licorice).
For my starter, I ordered the marinated and smoked red tuna sourced from Guéthary (watermelon-za'atar dressing, cucumber and verbena).
My wife ordered an entrée of grilled sweetbreads (mushrooms, stir-fry apricots and almonds, savory veal juice).
For my main course, I had the Cour d'Armoise poultry (small spelt, sage-scented butternut, mirabelle plums and sea buckthorn butter).
Our dishes paired nicely with a bottle of 2018 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage, ordered from the Eels wine list. Later in the evening, we each enjoyed a glass of 2015 Château des Fines Roches Châteauneuf-du-Pape (from a bottle that we had purchased at Nicolas earlier in the day). - 2016 Domaine Maillard Père & Fils Chorey-les-Beaune - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune (9/24/2019)
Pure cherry flavors are front and center on this medium ruby Pinot. Accented with notes of clove, coriander, rose petals and black tea, it is a light-to-medium-bodied, freshly acidic wine with nicely integrated alcohol (13%) and oak. The tannins are light-to-medium in weight but are a bit grippy on the mid-palate and medium-length finish. Despite the modest astringency of the tannins, this is quite enjoyable. Popping a cork at the present time is definitely not contraindicated. Drink now-2024. (88 pts.)
- 2018 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (9/24/2019)
Dark bramble fruits and black cherries are at center court on this deep ruby, full-bodied Syrah. Adding notes of pickling spice, lavender and bittersweet chocolate, it is impressively structured yet easy to drink. Freshly acidic, seamlessly alcoholic (13.5%), judiciously oaked and with plentiful silky-textured tannins, it is dense on the mid-palate and lingers nicely on the back end. Already enjoyable, this should continue to provide pleasure for several more years. Drink now-2028. (90 pts.)
- 2015 Château des Fines Roches Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/24/2019)
This medium-to-deep ruby wine is an equal-parts blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Done in a soft and gentle style, it delivers a package of red bramble fruits, cherry compote, anise, clove and jasmine. Medium-bodied, fresh, lightly oaked and softly tannic, it has no rough edges nor does it throw any heat from its 14.5% alcohol when served at the appropriate temperature. The middle palate is solid and the medium-length finish glides. This easy drinker should be at its best over the next five years. Drink now-2024. (88 pts.)
Wednesday, September 25 This was our "free day" in Paris, but nothing could have been further from the truth. My wife had long in advance booked us to dine at Arpège. With Alain Passard at the helm since 1986, this restaurant earned one star in the Michelin Guide in its first year and two soon thereafter. It earned three Michelin stars in 1996 and has impressively maintained this rating ever since. Based upon our experience, the three stars are not to be disturbed!
Our driver dropped us off just a bit early, so we were able to peruse the nearby Basilica of Saint Cloitide...such a gorgeous church among the many like it in Paris.
Our meal began with an amuse-bouche consisting of small bites of asparagus, celery and beet compote on top of crispy chips.
Numerous dishes were subsequently served with perfectly choreographed precision:
Tomato and celery branch gazpacho with mustard-based (non-sweet) ice cream
Carmelized brown onion gratin with Parmigiano Reggiano and young sprouts
Hot-cold egg (also known as "L'Arpège egg")
Trilogy of vegetable raviolis in vegetable consommé
Medallions of blue night lobster with honey from Arpège's apiary, served with courgette flower petals
Thin-cut heirloom tomatoes and white radishes
Garden velouté with hazelnut butter
Grilled Brittany coast white fish with Allian potatoes
Tarte tatin with caramelized Longor shallots and Kalamata anchovy cream
Hand-cut purple beetroot tartare with Orléans mustard and cherry tomatoes
Locally-sourced veal with vegetables and citrus glaze, named after Alain Passard's grandmother ("grand rotisserie d'heritage Louise Passard")
Ice cream profiterole with meadow herbs and flowers and bits of caramelized dragees
Crispy mille-feuille (decadent "whim of a child")
Assorted petit fours and candied brittle
Given the sheer number and variety of dishes, we ordered two wines (white and red) concurrently from Arpège's extensive wine list. The
2014 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis 1er Cru La Forêt and the 2016 Domaine Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape were both stellar. As can be deduced from the description of the menu, certain dishes paired best with the white, others with the red.
Following our lengthy lunch, we assumed that we would not be hungry for the rest of the day. However, we did experience hunger pangs later in the evening, which responded nicely to items ordered from our hotel's room service menu:
Creamy burrata breaded with gomasio, cherry tomatoes, ginger and cucumber jelly
Parisian onion soup
Beef filet "au sautoir" with mushrooms and Parmesan fries
Glasses of Franck Millet Sancerre and Duluc de Branaire-Ducru were concurrently consumed (from bottles that had previously been purchased at Nicolas). Although the Sancerre was somewhat lacking, the Bordeaux showed well and was an excellent companion to the soup, steak and fries. - 2014 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis 1er Cru La Forêt - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (9/25/2019)
This straw-colored wine is sourced from vines averaging fifty years of age, grown in Kimmeridgien limestone marl. Now with a few years of cellaring, it is a gorgeous Chablis that is just hitting its stride. Laden with citrus, stone fruits, honeysuckle and chalky minerality, it is medium-bodied, has vibrant acidity, seamless alcohol (12.5%) and subtle notes of oak. Layered and dense on the middle palate, it forges on to a lengthy, energetic finish. This delicious Chardonnay should provide pleasure throughout the next decade. Drink now-2030. (93 pts.)
- 2016 Domaine Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/25/2019)
Saint Préfert's 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Classique is an opaque crimson wine comprised of approximately 85% Grenache, with the remainder made up of equal parts Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. While the Grenache is aged entirely in concrete, the other three grapes are aged in 600-liter used oak barrels. Highly aromatic and intensely flavorful, this full-bodied red delivers a payload of dark bramble fruits and earthy black cherries, accented with notes of licorice, lavender, rosemary and black pepper. Freshly acidic and without any heat from its 13.5% alcohol, it wraps its flavors with plentiful silky-textured tannins and a tiny dollop of oak. Layered and dense on the middle palate, it moves on to a lengthy finish that adds a whiff of dark chocolate. This Châteauneuf is pure hedonism from beginning to end. Enjoy it throughout the next decade. Drink now-2030. (94 pts.)
- 2018 Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (9/25/2019)
While this pale yellow Sauvignon Blanc is quite vibrant, it is somewhat lacking in intensity on both the nose and palate. Light-bodied and fresh, it offers subtle notes of lime zest, lemon verbena, cardamom and chervil. The wine's alcohol (listed as 12.5%) is nicely woven and there is no detectable oak. Unfortunately there is a paucity of stuffing on the mid-palate and the finish is clipped. While not unpleasant, this is simply unmemorable. Drink now-2021. (83 pts.)
- 2015 Duluc de Branaire-Ducru - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (9/25/2019)
Duluc du Branaire Ducru is Château Branaire Ducru's second wine, sourced from the estate's younger vines. The 2015 iteration is a deep ruby blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Effusive of cassis, black cherry liqueur, anise, tobacco and truffle, it is a medium-bodied offering with fresh acidity, soft tannins and subtle oak. With nicely woven alcohol (listed as 13.5%), a solid middle palate and lengthy finish, this is a very credible wine that can be enjoyed while waiting for its more esteemed sibling to mature. Drink now-2025. (88 pts.)
Thursday, September 26 This was a day booked for a private tour of the Louvre and a driving tour of the city. The Louvre was spectacular. One could spend several days touring the expansive museum and still never see everything.
Mona Lisa
Venus de Milo
Winged Victory
After touring the Louve and driving around Paris, we had lunch at Café Hugo (no official restaurant website). Located beneath the arches on Place de Voges in Paris' fourth district, it is a cozy, informal eatery with good food.
I ordered the duck breast, cooked with honey and served with potatoes au gratin. This plate had a generous portion of tender duck meat and was absolutely delicious.
My wife ordered a thick beef steak with French fries. The meat was tender, juicy and flavorful. The fries were crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside...just as they should be!
From the restaurant's wine list we ordered a bottle of 2016 Grand Ricombre, which partnered well with our meat dishes.
After lunch, we strolled to a wine shop, NYSA on Rue Montorgueil in the second district.
One of several NYSA shops in Paris, it had a good selection. We picked up a couple of bottles for later consumption during our trip. Thereafter, we returned to our hotel, where we relaxed and read our books and magazines, sharing a bottle of Château de Bligny Champagne Grande Réserve Brut with snacks.
Later in the evening, we dined at Café de la Tourelle (no official restaurant website) on Rue Hautefeuille in the sixth district, which had been recommended by Alex (concierge colleague of Jeremy). Located in an old stone building and looking more like an Irish Tavern than a French restaurant, it is a cozy and fun place to eat. This was especially the case for us, as we were taken down a set of steps and seated at a quaint cellar table. The restaurant's menu was comprised of "comfort food" dishes and was printed on scattered chalkboards rather than on paper.
We decided to share dishes, starting with crayfish raviolis, bonito broth and basil. This was a fantastic preparation, packed with flavor.
Next was burrata from Puglia, served with prosciutto di Parma and almonds. This was likewise delicious.
Our third selection was the tuna tartare, served with chopped endive, wasabi and rice. This was a generous portion that we both thoroughly enjoyed.
Our selection from the wine list was the 2017 Bonnardot Pommard, which paired well with all three dishes.
At the conclusion of the meal, my wife expressed our gratitude in creative fashion.
Our server took the smiley spent plate back to the kitchen, which made the chef very happy. He thanked us in return with a complementary dessert of fresh berries and whipped cream.
Later in the evening, we somehow found room for snacks and a glass of Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Cavanos, which was a perfect way to end a great day in Paris! - 2016 Grand Ricombre - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lussac-St. Émilion (9/26/2019)
Grand Ricombre's 2016 is a medium-to-deep ruby blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Offering aromas and flavors of cherry compote, baking spices, dark chocolate and tobacco, it is a medium-bodied, freshly acidic wine with very soft tannins, minimal oak and well-woven alcohol (listed as 13%). Solid on the mid-palate and closing with a silky, medium-length finish, this is an easy drinker that should remain enjoyable over the next five years. Drink now-2024. (86 pts.)
- N.V. Château de Bligny Champagne Grande Réserve Brut - France, Champagne (9/26/2019)
This non-vintage Champagne carries a disgorgement identifier of 9130301705 (etched on bottom of the bottle near the rim). Straw-colored and sporting a brisk tiny bead, it has an impressive core of honeycrisp apples, tangerine peel, wet stones, toasted almonds and subtle bread dough. Vibrantly acidic, solid in the middle and long on the back end, this is a quality sparkler in every sense. As a grower Champagne, is also attractively priced. Enjoy this particular bottling over the next 3-4 years. Drink now-2023. (90 pts.)
- 2017 Domaine Bonnardot Pommard - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard (9/26/2019)
This medium-to-deep ruby wine presents a harmonious package of cherries, raspberries, baking spices, sandalwood and cocoa. Medium-bodied, fresh, seamlessly alcoholic (12.5%), judiciously oaked and with medium fine-grained tannins, it stays dense in the middle and finishes with good persistence. Drink now-2030. (90 pts.)
- 2017 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Cavanos - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (9/26/2019)
This deep crimson Syrah is ripe and suave, brimming with black cherries and dark bramble fruits that are accented with notes of violets, almond paste, mesquite and tobacco. Medium-bodied, freshly acidic and with nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 13%), it frames the flavors with subtle oak and medium-weight tannins that show a bit of grip. Beautifully dense on the middle palate and finishing with good length, this is an outstanding St. Joseph that is well worthy of its sticker price. A year or two in the cellar will likely round out the tannins. Thereafter, it should provide pleasure for the remainder of the decade. Drink 2021-2030. (91 pts.)
Friday, September 27 (Champagne) This was a day that we had really looked forward to...the day that we would travel to Champagne! Along with our private tour guide, our driver took us on a very scenic (90-mile) expedition to the town of Épernay. Home to numerous well-known and under-the-radar bubbly producers, it is a charming town that we absolutely loved. The Avenue de Champagne is a Champagne-lover's delight. We began with a visit to a small grower/producer, Collard-Picard. Founded in 1996 by a couple whose families are steeped in the history of Champagne production (Olivier Collard and Caroline Picard), they farm 37 acres and produce outstanding wines. We tasted three of their nonvintage offerings, all of which were very high in quality. Because I could not easily identify a disgorgement date or lot number, I did not record tasting notes.
We next visited Perrier-Jouët, a Champagne house that holds a special place in our hearts. Our wedding Champagne was Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque and we have enjoyed the contemporaneous vintage each of our 34 anniversaries.
Our next stop was Moët & Chandon, where we were scheduled to participate in the full cellar tour and vintage Brut Impérial tasting.
The cellar tour was fantastic. Moët literally has miles of caves. Somehow they can keep track of the millions of bottles that are produced. It was quite informative to see the difference in how Moët handles their tête de cuvée, Dom Pérignon. Because of the prolonged aging of this bottling, metal bottle caps are not used for closure during secondary fermentation (only cork).
After the cellar tour, we were able to taste some of the fruits of their labor. For the vintage offerings (2012 Bruit Impérial and 2012 Brut Impérial Rosé), tasting notes were recorded.
Following the tasting, we were escorted to the elegant gift shop, which definitely had the flair that would be expected from Moët & Chandon's parent company, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH).
After leaving Épernay, we took the short drive to Hautvillers, considered to be the cradle of Champagne. We first stopped to view the vineyards and enjoy a sandwich that we had purchased from a small shop in Épernay.
After our brief lunch, we visited the Abbey of Saint Peter, the home of the famed Benedictine monk, Dom Pierre Pérignon, who made important contributions to the production and quality of champagne (in an era when the region's wines were predominantly still red). Dom Pérignon is buried within the Abbey in front of the alter.
From Hautvillers, we took the scenic drive to Reims, approximately 17 miles north. A beautiful city steeped in history, we strolled the streets and subsequently spent most of our time at the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims. For more than 1000 years, French kings were crowned within this cathedral. A massive structure, it has impressive stained-glass windows and Gothic carved portals. The photos do not do it justice.
 - 2012 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage - France, Champagne (9/27/2019)
Straw-colored and quite vibrant, Moët & Chandon's 2012 Grand Vintage Brut (a blend of 41% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 26% Pinot Meunier) offers a nice array of pit fruits, green apples, brioche, honeysuckle and marzipan. Medium-bodied, crisply acidic and with a brisk small bead, it delivers its flavors with a creamy yet energetic mouthfeel that persists throughout a medium-length finish. This should show well through the next decade. Drink now-2030. (91 pts.)
- 2012 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Rosé - France, Champagne (9/27/2019)
Moët & Chandon's 2012 Grand Vintage Brut Rosé is a coral-colored sparkler with a lively small bead. A blend of 42% Pinot Noir, 23% Pinot Meunier and 35% Chardonnay (with some of the Pinot Noir being still wine added to infuse color), it flaunts aromas and flavors of raspberry coulis, strawberries, orange zest and almond paste. Medium-bodied, vibrantly acidic and with good minerality, it has excellent mid-palate presence and finishes with medium length. Rosé Champagne adds flair to any occasion. This vintage offering will fill the bill just fine! Drink now-2028. (90 pts.)
Friday, September 27 (Back in Paris) Despite some traffic congestion when entering Paris from Champagne (during rush hour), the drive back to our hotel was picturesque and comfortable. After refreshing in our room, we set out on foot to a restaurant that had been highly recommended by Jeremy, Vivre Opéra Garnier. Located in Paris' second district, it is the collaboration of Chef Caroline Savoy and her husband, Bruno Blain. Caroline, the daughter of the great chef Guy Savoy, essentially does her own thing at this restaurant. Innovative dishes are prepared to perfection with the freshest of elements. The limited menu changes regularly based upon availability of seasonal ingredients.
Upon entering the restaurant, we were escorted down a steep stairway to a cozy cellar, where we were seated at a table for two. Soon the restaurant filled with diners, fairly quiet but with good energy. One of our two waiters was Bruno Blain himself, whom we found to be friendly and, of course, very knowledgeable with respect to his wife's cuisine.
As a starter, I ordered the beef, cucumber, chili and mango tartare (served with coriander, parsley and a Vietnamese vinaigrette). This eclectic combination worked!
My wife began with a thyme roasted leek, served with fried panko, trout caviar and fresh goat cheese. This was likewise creative and delicious.
For my main course, I ordered the candied beef shank, served with chili and tarragon sauce and herb potato purée. The meat was tender and flavorful, as was the purée.
For her entrée, my wife ordered the roasted duck breast, served with three-textured fennel (candied/sautéed, grated and puréed) and orange duck gravy. This dish was stunning visually and was equally impressive from a flavor standpoint.
Our wine pairing at Vivre, selected from the restaurant's list, was the 2016 Domaine Arnoux Pére et Fils Chorey-les-Beaune Les Beaumonts. This was an excellent accompaniment to the four dishes.
After the meal, Caroline Savoy came to our table for a brief chat. She is not only a talented chef, but also a very affable young woman.
As was the case with many of our evenings during this European trip, we had bread, cheese and other snacks at night, typically with a glass of wine. This particular evening was no exception. The 2015 Château de la Font du Loup Châteauneuf-du-Pape put an exclamation point on a perfect day. - 2016 Domaine Arnoux Pére et Fils Chorey-les-Beaune Les Beaumonts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune (9/27/2019)
This medium ruby wine offers an attractive profile of morello cherries, red bramble fruits, rose petals, cocoa and black tea. Light-to-medium-bodied, freshly acidic and with nicely woven alcohol (listed as 13%), it frames the flavors with soft tannins and a modicum of oak. Despite the wine's relatively light, feminine style, there is impressive density on the mid-palate. The finish is medium in length and supple in texture. This delicate Pinot is a delight to drink, with impressive flavors and buffed edges. Enjoy it over the next five years. Drink now-2024. (90 pts.)
- 2015 Château de la Font du Loup Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/27/2019)
Château de la Font du Loup's 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a medium-to-deep ruby blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault. Packed with red bramble fruits, fig, Provençal herbs and baking spices, it is a medium-bodied red with good acidity, nicely integrated alcohol (14.5%), soft oak and velvety-textured tannins. Layered on the mid-palate and finishing with good length, this is a delight to drink. There is enough structure here to ensure several more years of enjoyment. Drink now-2027. (91 pts.)
Saturday, September 28 This was our final full day in Paris, and we intended to make the most of it. Our driver took us to the Arc de Triomphe, where we requested that he leave us so that we could meander anywhere we wanted by foot.
The Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with the names of all French victories and generals inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces. Beneath its vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I. The Unknown Soldier was buried at the base of the arch in 1921. The flame of remembrance is rekindled every day at 6:30 pm.
From the Arc de Triomphe, we walked down the Champs-Élysées. Known for its luxury shops, theatres, cafés and parades, it is definitely one of the most famous streets in the world.
Ladurée on the Champs-Élysées is the flagship house of the world famous luxury French bakery, best known for their double-decker macaron. We decided to have lunch in their restaurant, but rest assured, the bakery was getting its share of business!
We were seated on the main level (of three). Neither of us was ravenous, so we each just ordered one dish.
I opted for the French onion soup Gruyère. The broth for this delectable dish was hand-poured by our server.
My wife ordered the sea bream filet, served with thin leeks and mango vierge.
Both dishes paired well with the 2017 Domaine Jean Esprit Crozes-Hermitage Esprit that we ordered from the wine list.
Needless to say, we could not leave without first trying the double-decker macarons. Heavenly!
After lunch, we continued to stroll the Champs-Élysées, which included a significant amount of time in the Galeries Lafayette. Upscale in every sense, my greatest memory of the place will be the co-ed toilets. I wonder if any dating opportunities arise while waiting in the line to use the fancy Toto latrines. Perhaps personal connections can be made while discussing individual gastrointestinal issues. ;-)
Two other fascinating things for me while meandering down the Champs-Élysées:
The Five Guys burger joint was definitely the most popular restaurant, with a line extending to the sidewalk.
The Parisians have something that every city should have...large, quiet outdoor vacuums with workers who know how to use them!
Lots and lots of walking led us back to our hotel. Upon arriving we nibbled on some cheese and glasses of Faiveley Ladoix...just what the doctor ordered!
For dinner on our penultimate day, we ventured to Racines des Prés, another great eatery recommended by Jeremy. With Alexandre Navarro at the helm, this is a tremendous restaurant with dishes that are flavorful yet have less fat, less sodium and less sugar.
My wife started with the heirloom tomatoes from Domaine Vernins, served with watermelon, mozzarella and sweet peppers.
I began with the seabass ceviche, served with beetroots and blackberries in vinegar. Light and vibrant, I really enjoyed starting with a dish like this.
For her main course, my wife ordered the short loin of pork from Auvergne, served with sun-dried eggplant, peanuts and coriander. This was an inspired dish that was packed with flavor.
I could not resist ordering the carmelized duckling filet, served with steamed cabbage, sake and prunes.
While the tomatoes and ceviche paired best with the bottled sparkling water, our main courses were very much complimented by the Pavelot Aloxe-Corton, ordered from the Racines wine list.
Later in the evening, we enjoyed the 2015 Château Trianon (purchased from Nicolas) with a room service charcuterie plate. - 2017 Domaine Jean Esprit Crozes-Hermitage Esprit - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (9/28/2019)
This deep crimson Syrah is packed with blackberry, boysenberry and dark plum aromas and flavors. Accented with notes of licorice, lavender and black pepper, it is a medium-bodied, freshly acidic wine with seamless alcohol (13.5%), silky tannins and minimal oak. The ripe fruit and soft textures are pervasive on the mid-palate and lengthy finish. This seductive red will have broad appeal and should show well for several more years. Drink now-2027. (91 pts.)
- 2016 Faiveley Ladoix Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Ladoix (9/28/2019)
Faiveley's 2016 Ladoix Blanc was barrel-fermented and aged for 12 months in French oak. The Domaine describes the new oak exposure as "less than one-third" of the barrels. Light golden in color, it is effusive of green apple, lime zest, white flower and spicy oak aromas. Light-bodied, crisply acidic and with nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 13%), it delivers flavors mirroring the nose and stays solid on the mid-palate. The finish falls a bit short, but overall this is a pleasant Chardonnay that should be at its best over the next three years. Drink now-2022. (87 pts.)
- 2017 Domaine Pavelot (Regis / Luc et Lise) Aloxe-Corton - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton (9/28/2019)
Domaine Pavelot's 2017 Aloxe-Corton village-level bottling is a medium-ruby wine that flaunts an attractive core of spicy black and red cherries, accented with notes of white flowers, black tea, cocoa and cola. Light-to-medium-bodied, fresh, softly tannic and with equally soft oak, it has good mid-palate presence and no alcoholic heat (13%). Medium in length on the finish, this is a credible young Pinot that should show well over the next five years. Drink now-2024. (88 pts.)
- 2015 Château Trianon - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion (9/28/2019)
Château Trianon's 2015 is an opaque crimson blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Carménère, aged for 15 months in French oak (50% new, 50% once-used). Packed with earthy black cherry and dark plum fruit, it is a luscious wine from start to finish. The fruit is accented with notes of licorice, baking spices, cedar, tobacco and bramble leaf. Fresh acidity, integrated alcohol (14.5%), plentiful sweet tannins and nicely woven oak provide a solid frame that supports a dense mid-palate and lengthy finish. This delicious wine has deceivingly impressive structure that should ensure significant longevity. Drink now-2035. (92 pts.)
Sunday, September 29 This was our day to return home. As with most vacations, there were mixed emotions when it was coming to an end. We had experienced such a great time in the three wonderful countries that we had visited. That said, nothing is like home. We love the good ol' "US of A" and we especially love our home state of Nevada.
Our journey began with our Chabé driver picking us up, on time as usual, at the hotel and taking us to Paris International Airport (CDG). From there, we had a very comfortable British Airways flight on an Airbus A319 to London Heathrow Airport (LHR). This flight included meals that were quite good, including respectable wines (Lighthouse Sauvignon Blanc and Pierre André Mâcon-Villages).
At LHR, we rested in the British Airways business class lounge, where we sampled the 2014 Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet En Pimont while waiting to board our British Airways 747-400.
Our flight home was uneventful. We departed LHR in the morning and arrived at Las Vegas in the early evening (approximately 10 hours in the air). Our assigned business class seats were exactly the same as those on our original flight from Las Vegas to London, and we were able to sleep during much of the trip.
 - N.V. The Lighthouse Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough (9/29/2019)
This light-bodied, pale yellow wine was tasted from a 187 cc bottle which was served with lunch aboard a commercial airline flight. The bottle carried a lot number of L1921401C10. Offering clean aromas and flavors of gooseberry, green apple, citrus and freshly cut grass, it is a vibrant white with nicely integrated alcohol (12.5%) and no hint of oak. Although the middle palate is solid, the tart finish is a bit clipped. In the context of being paired with a smoked salmon sandwich on an airline flight, this was enjoyable (albeit not particularly memorable). Drink now-2020. (84 pts.)
- 2018 Pierre André au Château de Corton André Mâcon-Villages - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages (9/29/2019)
This straw-colored Chardonnay was sampled from a 187 cc bottle, served with lunch aboard a commercial airline flight. Offering pleasant aromas of lime zest, Bosq pears, wet stones and jasmine, it follows with similar flavors on a fresh, unoaked, light-bodied palate that throws no heat from its 13% alcohol. Solid in the middle and medium in length on the back end, this is a pleasant white to be enjoyed with light fare. Drink now-2022. (86 pts.)
- 2014 Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet En Pimont - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet (9/29/2019)
This village-level Chassagne-Montrachet serves up an aromatic array of pit fruits, tangerine, lemon verbena and wet stones. Light-to-medium-bodied, freshly acidic and with nicely woven alcohol (13.5%), it delivers flavors mirroring the nose, enhanced with a complementary dose of spicy oak. With good mid-palate density and a medium-length finish, this is a delightful Chardonnay that should be enjoyable for several more years. Drink now-2024. (89 pts.)
Our trip to England, Ireland and France will forever be remembered as a magical time. Despite the logistics, the journey had no major glitches. The British, Irish and French people could not have been nicer. We look forward to another European excursion in the future, hopefully within a year. |
