| | 15th year, 5th venue. It was a good year for truffles, Chef John did a fantastic job, and some good wine helped a little. Champagne to Start I was late and missed Salon 1997. - 2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill - France, Champagne
In Great 2002 Flight. Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming through clearly with very good weight, starting to age around the edges. I liked this slightly more a few years back. (93 pts.)
- 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
In great 2002 flight. Comes across as mostly Chardonnay driven tonight, but maybe that is partly driven with the contrast to the Winston Churchill just tasted. So much apple and pear with floral and spice hints. So much power and a fresh, almost backward finish with great length. Upside from here. (93 pts.)
- 2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
In great 2002 flight. Easily my favorite of this great flight. Both the most complex and most balanced for enjoyment today. So much orchard fruit with toasted brioche and exciting concentration and textures. (96 pts.)
Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune Vertical - 2001 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace
In 83/86/01 vertical. An odd bottle that seemed funky with musty elements that never blew off. Still good length. Nowhere near the level of previous bottles, this was probably 88 points tonight. (FLAWED)
- 1986 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace
In 83/86/01 vertical. Complex aromas and flavors are simultaneously sweet and tropical while tart and bright. So much here with impressive depth. As good as another bottle from the same source enjoyed three years ago. The only bad thing I could say is that the 1983 was better.
- 1983 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace
In 83/86/01 vertical. Savory and sweet at the same time with complex spiced notes throughout. Ultra concentration and shocking freshness for its age, I would have thought this a decade younger. (96 pts.)
- 1990 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Followed a great Trimbach Clos St Hune vertical. Ripe and buttery, but certainly with the energy to follow through. Still nicely bright. (91 pts.)
The Best 2007 Meursault Perrières - 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
In 2007 Coche-Dury, Colin-Morey, Lafon, Roulot horizontal. So much sweet and tart apple with fresh and candied lemon peel. Complex support from floral, spice, almond butter and earth hints throughout. I've had this wines many times in the past, but it has never been as great as tonight's exceptional bottle. (97 pts.)
- 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
In 2007 Coche-Dury, Colin-Morey, Lafon, Roulot horizontal. Slightly reduced to start. There is so much orchard and citrus fruit here is a backward package that is powerful, but still slightly austere and backward. Lafon was the best of the flight tonight, but this has the best potential, given its clear upside from here. (96 pts.)
- 2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
In 2007 Coche-Dury, Colin-Morey, Lafon, Roulot horizontal. So much stone fruit with candied lemon peel, toasted hazelnut and a faint hint of butterscotch. Very dense and long. Great wine, but this bottle would probably have been even better a year or two ago. (95 pts.)
- 2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
In 2007 Coche-Dury, Colin-Morey, Lafon, Roulot horizontal. Lush orchard fruit with impressive weight and length. Very enjoyable and powerful, just the least complex or nuanced of this completely brilliant flight. (93 pts.)
Dauvissat les Clos Vertical - 1994 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
In 94/04/07 vertical. Nicely mature and very rich, with the enchanting sweetness and butterscotch of mature white Burgundy. Ends with a long, bright finish for its age from a challenging vintage. (93 pts.)
- 2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
In 94/04/07 vertical. Best of the flight. So much here with a rich start of ripe apple, then powerful finish that is leaner and brighter.
. (94 pts.)
- 2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
In 94/04/07 vertical. Also very powerful and dense, but not nearly as forthcoming as more engaging 2004. Upside from here. (93 pts.)
- 1999 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Bonus bottle of Chablis following Dauvissat Clos vertical. Lots of ripe apple with fat richness, yet finishing with mineral textures. Not as complex or exciting as the Dauvissat vertical, but very enjoyable. (90 pts.)
Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet - 2000 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
In mid-aged Ramonet flight. Clearly past its peak. (FLAWED)
- 2004 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
In mid-aged Ramonet flight. Popped and poured as a replacement for the oxidized Ramonet 2000 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. As almost always, a great bottle. Lots of apple and pear throughout with supplementary floral and mint character. Rich, powerful and long with complex, unfolding layers. In its peak drinking window. (93 pts.)
- 1999 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
In mid-aged Ramonet flight. Rich and tasty, but clearly certainly more mature than I would prefer. I have had better bottles in the past few years. (90 pts.)
- 1999 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
In mid-aged Ramonet flight. More richness and creaminess vs Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, but also more mature than I would expect, given fresher bottles I have had in recent years. (91 pts.)
Some Older Vosne-Romanée Grand Cru - 1959 Georges Noellat Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
TWO corked bottles tonight. I have now had this wine five times - twice great, thrice corked. (FLAWED)
- 1976 Maison Leroy Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Mature ripe red and black cherry with sweet spice. Showing the vintage - very ripe, slightly lacking dimensional complexity, yet also charmingly Vosne. (90 pts.)
- 1978 Maison Leroy Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Fresh, mature and dried red cherry throughout, still nicely perfumed with so much complexity and both Asian five spice and baking spice. So much ere with good weight and length, but sensational balance and persistence for its age. (94 pts.)
Musigny 2002 - 2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
In Musigny 2002 flight. Clearly ripe, yet perfectly balanced and elegant with complexity unfolding from start-to-finish. This wine just keeps getting better and better. These were served single blind, and fairly easy to identify. (96 pts.)
- 2002 Domaine Jacques Prieur Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
In Musigny 2002 flight. Dense fruit throughout with faint earth and mushroom hints. Lots of power on finish, still good complexity. These were served single blind, and fairly easy to identify. It's a rare flight where this is the laggard!
- 2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
In Musigny 2002 flight. Such dense blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry with plenty of richness to start. Then power emerges in the middle, followed by brightness and energy with a nearly massive finish where complexity is starting to come through. The wine in the flight that has the most upside. These were served single blind, and fairly easy to identify. (95 pts.)
Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vertical - 1993 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Single blind in 93/95/98 vertical, these were tougher to correctly identify. Lots of potential, lots of concentration, lots of black and red cherry, but this needs more time in the cellar and/or more air.
- 1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Single blind in 93/95/98 vertical, these were tougher to correctly identify. So much here, not as brawny as the 1993, but not as fun as the 1998. So tasty, but also still so much upside. (93 pts.)
- 1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Single blind in 93/95/98 vertical, these were tougher to correctly identify. Rich, and ever so tasty with Grand Cru depth. Easily the most enjoyable of the flight tonight, even if the others might eclipse it some day, but when? (94 pts.)
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - 1986 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I have not had this wine in at least a decade, but remember it as a great wine. Tonight's bottles seemed poorly stored and oxidized. (FLAWED)
- 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Good but slightly dirty, so nit up to this wine's standard. (FLAWED)
- 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A few hours in a decanter really paid off here. The one good bottle in the flight. Mostly black cherry, some red cherry, dense and nearly meaty with anise, black pepper and allspice. More floral notes starting emerging with more time in glass. Great now (with air), with upside and a few decades to enjoy going forward. (94 pts.)
But Wait...There's More - 2001 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
So much red fruit with Asian five spice, aging gracefully with very good weight for Villages wine at this age. (90 pts.)
- 1972 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Stunning and spectacular aromas, then darn good flavors, all exactly what we want from older Vosne Grand Cru. Delish. (93 pts.)
- 1989 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Very late night bonus wine. Yes, this wine was opened, too.
- 1971 Domaine Marion Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Another late night bottle that I recall being surprising bright and clearly showing Grand Cru density. François Lebaron was the negociant, while I have more often seen this from Bouchard Aîné.
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