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 3/21/2021 (Chicago, IL)
 

 

 

  • 2006 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
    From magnum. I liked this much more than the 2006 Blanc de Millénaires alongside. This had many similar characteristics -- a sappy, sweetness to the fruit which was also less creamy and autolytic than the Heidsieck (although still quite so) -- but the most distinguishing difference is the vein of acidity underpinning this wine, which gives this more freshness and drinkability. (93 pts.)
  • 2006 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires - France, Champagne
    I really wanted to like this more than I did. This has pronounced white grape juice on the nose and palate, and comes across a little simple and sweet. At first, the acid wasn't even there, but the structure does come into focus with some more air, though it doesn't seem to shed the sweet cream flavours. A little disappointing on the heels of the great 1995 and solid 2004. (88 pts.)
  • 2011 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
    Served double blind, but based on some previous conversations I had with the owner of this, I knew what this was. A fat and lusciously rich chardonnay, with a bit of headiness and lots of stone fruit flavours. Showing quite youthfully for the vintage, with plenty of acid and minerality. Not spritzy like the 2015 I had at the Castel de Très Girard last year, but certainly kin. (93 pts.)
  • 2015 Domaine Y. Clerget Meursault Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Served double blind. We were all over the place on this one -- the acidity was right for chardonnay, but there was also some phenolic/green bitterness here that made me think of (and guess) 2011. A little ungainly on the palate. A little thin and disjoint, and I didn't pick up the breadth or ripeness of the vintage. (85 pts.)
  • 2010 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Served double blind. Red Burgundy, obviously, and the gentle red fruit did have me thinking Chambolle. This does have a little bit of a spicy quality to it, though that is probably more of a house style thing. Slightly more mature than I would have expected; I was thinking of going to 2002 for this. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Marie et Pierre Bénetière Côte-Rôtie Cordeloux - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Yeah, pretty much just as I remember it being. Sweet black fruit, olive brine, and just an all-round explosive nose. Intense and fruity, but plenty of the requisite syrah elements here -- the olive brine, smoke, meat, it's all there. On the palate, this is broad-shouldered and is essentially a continuation of the nose. Phenomenal syrah that is still a tad primary. This has great further aging potential. (95 pts.)
  • 2004 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
    I'm a huge fan of how 2004 Northern Rhônes are drinking right now, and this bottle is another case in point. The nose shows a pronounced brininess with some funky earthy elements as well. The palate has a little animale and comes off with quite a bit of that rustic barnyard thing going on, but for the most part this is quite resolved and ready to go. (93 pts.)
  • 2010 Louis Jadot Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Served double blind. Can't say that the wine is mature, but it is drinking splendidly right now. Admittedly I thought that this was a 1er cru (and then decided it was Gevrey), given that this wasn't as spicy as you might expect from Vosne. Indeed I felt a bit more of the earthy tones, which led me to Gevrey. The 2010 guess wasn't too difficult given the red-fruited disposition and how easily this was drinking. (93 pts.)
  • 2001 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Served double blind. I did pick up some cabernet notes here (bell pepper mostly) but I was thinking more along the lines of a Super Tuscan than anything. Clearly mature, with some black fruit and a bit of a herbal thing that someone said was American oak (I couldn't quite get to Rioja myself). Lots of dark cherry and ripe fruit, but this never got to over-the-top territory. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Henri Jouan Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    Served double blind. Obviously red Burgundy, but I thought this was probably something from a more natty-inclined winemaker given the weird aging of the fruit here (I also thought this was probably a decade older than it was). Tart red fruit and some weird earthy things going on here too. (88 pts.)
  • 2006 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Felsentürmchen Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
    I don't quite remember the story behind this bottling, as it is mostly a GG now. Anyway, the wine itself shows the 2006 vintage a bit, with more generous fruit, but less of a racy thing going on. Good breadth and weight here, but suffering from a slight case of Prädikat creep (perhaps also because it was a tad warmer than it should have been when I tasted it). (90 pts.)

 


 
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