| | The theme was a mini Judgement of Paris type of tasting. We had a group of nine for this event (JP, KB, JG, JG/CG, TS, DS, Marvin, Christina) The goal was to match up an old and a new world wine in a fairly similar age grouping and vote for the winner. It was not done blind however. The wines were pretty darn impressive. And the food. Oh my gosh, the food was crazy good. Thanks to Team Jason for that!!! And a huge thank you to Jason for his incredible generosity in providing so many great wines along with the food. what a night. Amazing!!! - N.V. Jacques Selosse Substance - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Medium dark gold color. Drank a glass over 45 minutes plus. This was disgorged 10/22/10, from a Solera dating to 1986. This is certainly unique; shrouded in a highly oxidative character; surprisingly floral, orange peel, liqueurish, lanolin, honeycomb, baked apple and citrus, savory, with virtually no mousse at all. I was very happy to get the chance to drink this and the next one. I, like galewskj, am kind of baffled by the the hype and hysteria. First, I like this Champagne, and I found it intriguing on an intellectual level. That said, from a sheer pleasure standpoint, it didn't resonate with me. Very vinous, but in the way of an old white burg that has seen it's best days, but clings to its yesteryears that we wish were still vibrant. For those that gravitate to a highly oxidative style, this will really satisfy. I'm just not that fond of Champagne that is essentially no longer Champagne and the essence has left the bottle. And again, I liked this, but it wasn't a transcedent experience. This actually reminded me of a a couple bottles of 2002 Cristain Senez that a few of us picked up a couple years ago and drank over the last 2 years. It was really quite similar. The next bottle which was a V.O. BdB was very similar in style to the Substance. I am truly grateful to Jason and his generosity for opening these to give us all a chance to experience them. (92 pts.)
- N.V. Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Medium dark gold color. Drank a glass over an hour plus. Disgorged 4/23/09. Barely any bubbles, highly oxidative, smokey, baked apricot, candied orange peel, creamy, baking spices, spicy. This was lighter than the Substance (10/28/10), but I think in the end, I prefered the complexity of the Substance a bit more, though they were close for me. Thanks to Jason again for opening this pair! (91 pts.)
- 2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Pale gold color. PNP, drank a glass plus over an hour plus. This was a stellar example of this wine. The nose shows tons of freshness, Anjou pear, kumquate, tarragon, anise and bright mineral notes. The palate is crystalline with its minerality and focus; Meyer lemon, lemon, panna cotta testure, lemon zest, elegant and lifted, long and tangy, this just resonates. Gorgeous, and for me, the clear winner over a very good '13 Marcasssin. Group vote was 5-4 for the Bonneau. 95+pts. (95 pts.)
- 2013 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Light medium gold color. PNP, drank a glass over an hour plus. Perfumed on the nose, with candied pear, tropical notes, orange and lemon, orange blossoms. On the palate this decadent and rich, soft texture, pear, white pepper, savory, citrus, voluminous, and long. This was excellent, but not quite as good as a couple other even more memorable bottles from recent memory. Big stylistic differences, and I like both a lot, but the nod for me tonight clearly goes to the '10 Bonneau du Martray CC. Group vote was 5-4 for the Bonneau. (94 pts.)
- 1993 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very dark red/purple color. 2 hrs slow-O prep. Drank a glass plus over 2 hours. The nose is fantastic out of the gate, as the palate is a bit more reclusive. But boy this build and picks up steam as it evolves over an hour. Tobacco leaf, dried spice, earthy forest floor with lots of leather, and touches of cedar, with darker fruits. The palate is shows tobacco, tart cassis, tart raspberry, and dried earth. Thin in the middle and back end to start, but very slowly this opens and becomes more giving in its texture and weight. This was a fun journey, and at the end I was in camp Mouton. However, at the peak of the Martha's, I have to give that the nod by a fraction of an inch. Group vote was 7-2 for the Heitz. 93+ to 94pts. (94 pts.)
- 1996 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Very dark red/purple color. Splash double decanted + 2 hr slow O after; drank a glass plus over 2 hours. Amazing right from the start. Cedar box, higly perfumed, classic eucalyptus, dried herbs, cool menthol, violet, spiced red berries and cassis on the nose. The palate is juicy, spicy, black cherry, anise, Christmas spice, medicinal cherries, wood spices, dense and full bodied with soft tannins. Fantastic, however, I thought it broke down noticably in glass after a good hour showing a more liqueurish character to the fruit and palate with a sharpness on the back end. But for the first hour it rocked. Though at the end of the night I favored the Mouton, the edge goes to the Martha's over the '93 Mouton at peak. Vote was 7-2 Heitz. (95 pts.)
- 1983 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Very dark red color. Slow-O for 2.5 hrs. Drank a glass over 90 minutes. Classic dried earth notes, scorched earth, orange peel, cigar, tobacco, medium bodied and elegant, Burg-like in style and structure at this point; grainy tannins, plenty of dark fruits yet, tart cherry, blood orange, firmish tannins, leather and wood notes. Very good, got better with air, but not as impressive as another recent bottle. Vastly different but the nod goes to the '97 Insignia. Group vote 5-3 for Insignia. 92+ to 93pts. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley
Very dark red/puple color. 30 minutes double decant. Drank a glass plus over 90 minutes. I was hopeful for this, but also worried it might be too much. Well, it wasn't too much, while it simply soared in the glass. Ripe, beautiful, dark fruit of the forest profile, gorgeous, black and purple fruits; blackberry, mulberry, creme de cassis, menthol, tar and graphite on the nose. Wow, just singing. The palate is giving, wonderfully velvety on the palate, full and layered, impressive in the density, yet light on its feet for the intensity; blackberry, prominent black raspberry, boysenberry, rich and layered, menthol, violets, so polished on the tannins and crazy long. This was riveting. I've had so many of the cult Napa cabs by certain winemakers that really come off over the top and seem to have no soul or balance, but this was nothing like that. Complex, balanced, yes, clearly Nape fruit, but everything fit together beautifully. This topped a very good '83 Haut Brion for me and in the group vote 5-3. 96+ to 97pts. (97 pts.)
- 2008 Château La Violette - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Followed a glass over an hour. Ripe, blackberry, dry, oaky, big and way too young, hard to evaluate through the wood, though the tannins are more moderate and round. I'm with galeweskj on this, it was a hard transition and it just wasn't all there. No score. Though I preferred it to the '12 Blankiet in a no contest victory. Group vote was 7-2 for the La Violette.
- 2012 Blankiet Estate Rive Droite - USA, California, Napa Valley
Followed a glass over an hour. Also after a grouping of older wines,s and it was a tough act to follow. For me, this was just far too young, and a bit surprisingly it had a strong youthful green character for a wine over 10 years old. Very dense, very ripe, blackberry liqueur, lacquer, herbaceous. Sadly, I can't say I enjoyed this tonight unfortunately. Score reserved. My vote and group vote was 7-2 for the La Violette.
- 1976 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Deep gold/amber color. Drank a glass over 45 minutes. Wow, gorgeous! Ripe, brown sugar, orange marmalade, orange peel nose. The palate shows orange, orange marmalade, pineapple, apricot, honeyed and viscous, ripe and round, amazing spice notes with the perfect inflection of the spice to balance the sweetness and fruit, full bodied and long. Outstanding and classy. (96 pts.)
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