| | A very strong set of wines that turned up a surprising number of northern Rhones. Chave was the unanimous favourite; majority liked the power of the Pingus but I belonged to a minority that loved the old Northern Rhones. - N.V. Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Reserve Perpetuelle Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Quite lean but balanced with ripe red fruit that led me to think this was a Pinot-dominant wine. Haven't had much of this producer but thought this was very good. (92 pts.)
- 1959 Château Batailley - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Friend opened as a backup after an oxidised '90 Clos de Tart (bummer!). Wow this was incredibly vibrant for its age - thought this was from the '70s. Smoky red fruit with forest floor notes, obviously tertiary but very much alive. (92 pts.)
- 2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Don't think I've had a bottle that generated so much controversy. Light, elegant red cherry fruit that didn't feel more than 5 years old - thought this was a 2017 Vosne. Perplexing because this was neither Vogüé nor Bonnes Mares in nature as it lacked any sort of robustness; we were debating if it was a fake or a recently released bottle. Pleasant but not mindblowing. (92 pts.)
- 1978 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
One of my bucket list wines and an incredibly generous pull. Having tasted my Balthazar, was easy for me to identify this as a northern Rhone from the same era. Slight browning in colour; rich, autumnal dark red fruit that had both sweetness and umami. Good, but not transcendental; but I caveat this was unfortunately was finished too quickly for me to follow the wine properly. (93 pts.)
- 1998 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Voted this as one of my favourites at the start (partly because I didn't want to vote for my own wine), but didn't revisit this much after. Very attractive red-fruited nose that had assimilated all the oak that made me think an expensive Burgundy producer. Broad-shouldered on the palate with crystalline, but slightly monolithic red fruit that reminded me of Cheval Blanc. A powerhouse of a wine to win points, but not hearts. (94 pts.)
- 1988 René Balthazar Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
My contribution, decanted into a Voss bottle at 1pm for dinner. These old Balthazars are quite something, this was as good as the magical '01 I had in Tokyo. Had a similar floral, elegant nose; ethereal texture and gorgeous deep red fruit that was so velvety. Obviously more tertiary than the '01 with some tea-like flavours. A captivating wine that demanded your attention to find its nuances as the layers of fruit unfurled. So understated that it won't win in a blind contest, but the type of wine that I absolutely adore. (96 pts.)
- 1995 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
My contribution, decanted into a Voss bottle at 1pm for dinner. Guesses were between Burgundy and northern Rhone, ranging from late '90s to mid '00s. More youthful and vibrant dark red fruit than the Balthazar, slightly tart to begin with but became more expressive and structured with air. Brawnier than the Balthazar but had the same depth. Last glass was the best. Incredible that a Crozes-Hermitage could age so well; this was a quintessential northern Rhone that can go toe-to-toe with its more illustrious neighbours. (94 pts.)
- 2007 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Disagreed with most of the others who guessed this as a masculine Burgundy like Cathiard, but couldn't put my finger on where this was from. In hindsight, should have realised it was a Chave as it showed remarkably similarly to the '04 I had last month. Pure, intensely driven violet and red fruit; slight polish of modern Chaves but nothing overdone. Sensual and elegant texture, sublime finish. Chave's consistency is unmatched in northern Rhone. (95 pts.)
- 2005 Marie et Pierre Bénetière Côte-Rôtie Cordeloux - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Brought for a friend, popped and poured. Still burly and tight even after a couple of hours in a decanter. VA on the nose that was distracting for some others at the table. Not sure if the drying black fruit will outlast the immense structure here. (91 pts.)
- 1994 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Very slight TCA but wow this was so vibrant for the weak vintage. Supple, sweet dark red fruit that made me think right-bank. (FLAWED)
- 1990 Mommessin Clos de Tart - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Unfortunately oxidised. (FLAWED)
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