An evening of Barolo and Barbaresco

Bern, Switzerland
Tasted Saturday, October 25, 2014 by Eric with 617 views

Introduction

This was a lovely evening of Barolo and Barbaresco with a few ringers tossed in. All of the wines were served blind and in somewhat random order. Strangely enough, the first wine in every flight was the most modern.

Flight 1 (1 Note)

First we started with a ringer white, also served blind.

  • 2012 Christian Zundel Chardonnay Velabona

    Switzerland, Ticino

    Edgy and mineral with a flinty note that hints at Chablis but without enough acid to get me there. However it also lacked the depth and weight of Chardonnay that I am used to, so I assumed that it was some sort of Italian variety like Arneis or Gavi.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

We knew there would be one cool climate Nebbiolo present on the evening, and that one stood in stark contrast to the Conterno which showed quite modern.

  • 1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    An utterly soaring nose of roses just explodes from the glass. Dried fruits and apricot with a faint Amarone aspect. Clearly modern, but I find this to be very enjoyable. Sweet, cherries and spicecake. My #2 wine of the flight.

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  • 2001 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse

    Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella

    Loaded with iron and hints of green peppercorn. Faintly smoky with some wet earth. The palate is loaded with green, stalky aspects with a very appealing vegetal character. The more it airs it gains depth with tar, black and brooding and much "darker" than the other wines in the flight. My #3 wine of the flight.

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  • 2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    In between the other two wines in style. More compact with a balsamic aspect. Smouldering, sharp, with iron and a whiff of alcohol. Really compact and tightly wound. Peppery, sharp and dry. Mmm, wow, this is really opening up well. There is lots of alcohol but amazing acidity. My #1 wine of the flight.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

The Voerzio really stood out as a different animal here, especially in contrast to the Produttori. And oh that Bartolo Mascarello.

  • 2001 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Volatile with florals and oak. Deeeep concentration. Explosive palate, powerful, with balsamic notes. It's quite fun. Very modern. But fun. My #3 wine of the flight.

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  • 2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Vitamin and faintly citric. Also volatile, peppery and alcoholic. At first it is a bit linear and tannic, maybe a little muddled. However with more time I really started to enjoy this more. Very compact and powerful but enjoyable at the same time. My #2 wine of the flight.

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  • 2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Iron, iron, and more iron at first. With a swirl there are floral notes and mint with some tobacco. Wow what a palate. Seamless with perfect balance. Pure cherry fruit, vibrant, sweet and sour. This is really just perfectly enjoyable, peppery and tarry, so energetic. My clear #1 wine of the flight and #2 wine of the night.

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

A magical flight with the Giacosa shining so brightly.

Closing

I bow at the altar of Giacosa and Bartolo Mascarello. On a night with many terrific wines, those two stood out in stunning fashion.

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