Breton Bourgueil Perrières Vertical

Library releases shown by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants

• NV Catherine et Pierre Breton Vouvray Pétillant La Dilettante

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant

  Clean pear, off dry, slight minerality. Nice and easygoing.

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• 2014 Catherine et Pierre Breton Vouvray La Dilettante

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Light weight for Vouvray. Definite herbal edge. Some glycerine and soil. Unusual.

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• 2015 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch!

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Ruby core. Brett-filled, stinky Cab Franc nose. I could have sworn there were some carbonic notes, but the rep said that this is done with no carbonic maceration. Charcoal finish.

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• 2014 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Nuits d'Ivresse

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Even ruby. Much less assertive, laid back aromas. Medium weight, very nice feel of clay and soil. Berry fruit, herbs, some tannin, dry finish. I liked this more than many of the Bourgueils.

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• 2012 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Light ruby. Herbal aromatics. Light weight, underripe green fruit. Open, good soil finish, but not much to this and a sense of dilution.

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• 2007 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Light center. More green olive. Light body, some sap, not much fruit. Tart, dry, somewhat lean finish. Not great but one of the better vintages of the tasting.

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• 2004 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Medium center, mature looking rim. Green olives on the nose and palate. Some texture to it, high acidity, tar at the end. Surprisingly good for the year.

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• 2003 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Light center. Roasted nose. Some red berry and olive in a relatively weightier package. Short finish. Not bad. One really tastes ripeness and sweetness that is absent in the other vintages.

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• 2002 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Pale with some browning. Light strawberry notes. Faded, delicate, acidic, and herbal. Dried out finish. Dying.

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• 1999 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Light, browning. Very bell peppery nose. Brown spice, stalky, artificial sweetness (chaptalized?). Earthy, dry finish with some brett showing. Completely unappealing.

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• 1993 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Pale to the rim. Light weight, green olive, high acidity. Not much to like here.

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• 1992 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  Light, brown, completely mature looking. Light, delicate, herbaceous, stalky with odd brown sugar notes. Underripe finish. A disaster.

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Even accounting for my tasting ability being even lower than usual due to a cold, these were incredibly disappointing. The 2007 was okay, and the 2004 and 2003 provided modest positive surprises compared to expectations for the respective vintages, but the older wines bordered upon disaster. Tasting through these without any food was punishing and detrimental the wines' showing. Please don't get me wrong-I like Loire valley Cabernet Franc and have enjoyed many bottles of Breton. Not tonight, though. Lean and light is one thing, but flavorless and dried out is quite another.