Mudgee micro-tour

E's 50th in the country gave me the opportunity to reappraise my opinion of Mudgee grapes and wine…

Some interesting wines here - the Gewurztraminer, Shiraz Nouveau and Cabernet Reserve were my picks but generally the wines weren't that great…

• NV Robert Stein Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Peach, cherry, slight sweet spice, sharply juicy, gritty aggressive mousse…I'm guessing a reasonably rapid Charmat method (or whatever it's called) or simple CO2 injection rather than any variation on Methode Champanoise.

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• 2015 Robert Stein Sémillon

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Grassy, green apple over a little lemon and lime. Juicy green apple and lime, a little mid palate burr. Medium length. Meh.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Gooseberry, green fruit, grass, clean. Juicy tending to zesty acidity, chalky minerality, fruit a little lighter here. Hmm

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• 2017 Robert Stein Riesling

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lime over green apple, slight peach even. Juicy to sharp acidity, fruit a little more muted. Meh.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Riesling Reserve

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lime pith, lime juice, very slight kerosene. Zesty, sharp acidity, mineral, lime…time for me.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Chardonnay Third Generation

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  A little peachy, a little lemon and generic stone fruit. On the palate it's juicy, slight butter, a little soft. Meh.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Chardonnay Reserve

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lemon zest, butter, cheesy lees, a little fresh oak. In the mouth it's chewy, tight, juicy acidity, a little drying on the palate with plenty of butter and structure but fruit is a little lacking. Long. Hmm.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Gewürztraminer

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lychee, rose petal, surprisingly juicy on the palate; not as glycerol as I'd have expected by a very fresh lychee note and a touch of petillance. This isn't really a style I like but this has converted me. Good.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Semillon Riesling

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lime, slight lychee, off dry, Meh

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• 2016 Robert Stein Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Strawberry and cherry, off-dry. Meh again.

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• 2016 Robert Stein Cabernet Sauvignon Saignée Rosé

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  savoury red berry and cherry a little earthy spice, savoury, spritzy and very strawberry on the palate. Nah

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• 2017 Robert Stein Shiraz Nouveau

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  wild ferment, a little stalky ashiness, a little jubey black fruit under this. Savoury and juicy, wet black fruit, slightly chalky tannins. Okay.

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• 2015 Robert Stein Shiraz

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Blackberry, vanilla, cream, a little chocolate, chewy woody tannins that are tight, blackberry fruit, vanilla and cream underneath this. Meh for me

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• 2014 Robert Stein Shiraz Reserve

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Even more oak that the standard expression. Dense and concentrated fruit offsets this. Alcohol warmth. Tannins are drying but smoother than the 2015. Hmm

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• 2013 Robert Stein Cabernet Sauvignon

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Farty, blackcurrant, a little mud and spice, wet, a little sour and bitter, tight tannins. A bit out of whack.

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• 2012 Robert Stein Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Wild blackcurrant, eucalyptus, cream, slight vanilla and sweet spice. On the palate it's slightly sour blackcurrant, juicy, spicy, tightly tannic. Interesting if not a little sharp. Lovely nose. Young.

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• 2014 Robert Stein Kinnear

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Blackberry, cream, vanilla, sweet spice, slightly sour blackberry with chalky tannins plenty of oak some charred caramel. Hmm.

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• NV Robert Stein Shiraz Sparkling Shiraz

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Blackberry and blackcurrant, chalky mousse, Christmas cake but the fruit drops a little too quickly for me. Nah.

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The blend was the clear winner here. Arguably a little simple but well done. Very impressive.

• 2018 Slowfox Rosé

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Lanolin, slight sweet spice, a tiny gamey note and red berries. Juicy, savoury, tangy, a little metallic note with a tight tannic burr across the mid palate.

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• 2016 Slowfox The Blend

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Plums, chocolate, blackberry and blackcurrant, cherry, sweet spice. Juicy, tangy, fresh, fruit forward, softly tannic, beautifully balanced.

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• 2016 Slowfox Cabernet Sauvignon

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Cassis tending to black currant concentrate which also lends a touch of reductiveness, vanilla, alcohol heat. Juicy, tightly tannic but concentrated fruit persists in a raisined way. Big and bolshy. Bit old school Aussie but nice none the less.

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• 2016 Slowfox Shiraz

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Again fruit concentrate blackberry, a little peppery spice, a little vanilla. Juicy, chalky tannins. Fruit forward again, perhaps a little short. Not for me.

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The rose and two of the reds were quite good but the Enzo Blend was the one that got my vote.

• 2017 First Ridge Vermentino

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  slightly herbaceous, unripe stone fruit, a little bitter note. Juicy, bone dry, fruit a little muted. Nah.

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• 2018 First Ridge Pinot Grigio

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Pear skin & white pepper, more of the same on the palate. A little residual sugar (?), medium length.

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• 2018 First Ridge Fiano

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Green, herbaceous, orchard fruit backed by a little pepper and spice. Juicy, structure, white pepper over muted fruit, broad across the mid palate. Hmm

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• 2017 First Ridge Sangiovese Rosé

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  lightweight red cherry, slightly savoury…on the palate it's juicy and savoury with a little lightweight cherry, a touch of bitterness on the finish which lends interest. Smashable.

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• 2014 First Ridge Sangiovese

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Funky, gamey, slightly oxidised over jubey, sweet cherry…exceedingly juicy acidity, sweet cherry fruit, touch of tobacco leaf and very savoury on the finish with a slight oxidised intrusion. I wonder how long it has been open?

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• 2016 First Ridge Enzo

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Red underpinned by black cherry, a little sweet spice though the overall impression is of savouriness. Similar fruit profile on the palate, tight tannic grip though the fruit persist. Young. Kind of nice. I have an aged short rib roast at home that will probably go very well with this

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• 2016 First Ridge Barbera

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Cherry, a little vanilla and chocolate, cedar, exceedingly juicy without being overtly sour, cherry fruit, soft tannins, a little vanilla and cream joins on the finish. Call this warm climate typicity with oak. Nice enough

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As always three wasn't enough but it was a good place to get an idea of the knd of things that are going on in Mudgee. I'm afraid I can't say I'm super excited by what I've seen on this visit…but I have seen enough to make me come back and look at some other wineries...