Game @ The Harwood Arms

Harwood Arms, London
Tasted Thursday, October 18, 2018 by SimonG with 132 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Game tea, warm game canapés

Flight 2 (3 Notes)

Roast widgeon with licorice, beetroot and quince

  • 1999 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Deep ruby. Really quite plush on the nose with a freshness and slight lift coming through. Dark red fruit. Quite dense. Fresh with a good line. Densely silky. Best Rostaing in a while. ****

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  • 1998 Peter Lehmann Shiraz Stonewell 91 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

    Dense, slightly menthol throat lozenge nose. Sweet fruit, rich and ripe. Smooth but full on. Distinctive. Some heat on the finish. I liked this more than a previous bottle a decade ago, but still not my thing. Tamed by rich food, though reverted again afterwards. ****

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  • 1999 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Cloudy. Lots of fine sediment. Quite muddy and mute on the nose. A little agricultural. Quite dense. A fresh acidity coming through, and the nose does brighten. Raspberry. Strengthens with food but this bottle lacking purity. ****

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Hare and prune faggots with chestnut and pickled walnut

  • 1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    Wow, knockout nose. Room-fillingly floral. Freesias. Dense, velvety. Still quite structured. Gorgeous nose, so feminine. ****

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  • 1998 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Dense, grouse tea nose. Really quite fragrant and not entirely positively. Uncompromising attack. Lightens a little on the nose and works better with food. However... Volstility and almost a portiness on the nose. Not to my taste. Marmitesque. I can understand Gillman’s scoring. ***1/2 for some?

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  • 1995 Domaine de Trévallon 94 Points

    France, Provence, Vin de Pays des Bouches-du-Rhône

    Sweet fruited with a touch of red meat when opened. Double decanted 4 hrs. Now a touch of sweet beetroot, some garrigue, a pinch of herbs and dark, sweet-fruited meatiness. Lovely. ****1/2

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

Fallow prickett wellington with creamed potato, baked root vegetables and greens

  • 1978 Pio Cesare Barolo 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Fragrant, floral, sweet fruited. Mellow, still a bit of bite. Ideal with the Venison wellington. Really quite harmonious and moreish. Very fragrant and nuanced. Lovely. ****1/2

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  • 1994 Dominique Laurent Charmes-Chambertin Cuvée Prestige 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Lovely old school Burgundian nose, all sweet fruit and autumnal decay. Ponsotesque nose. Quite sweet on the attack and then lighter and slightly thinner with a dry edge. Very decent but the paste doesn’t quite live up to the image conjured up by the nose. ****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Cheese

  • 1974 Barros Porto Colheita 89 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Gorgeous colour. Pale. Very spirity nose. A touch of raisin. More raisiny fruit on the palate. Smoother than the nose, but still quite angry and spoiling for a fight. Needs some air, but potentially interesting. ***

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