1990 and older Châteauneuf-du-Pape offline at Kaspar's

Seattle, WA
Tasted Saturday, April 30, 2005 by Eric with 1,216 views

Introduction

Roy Hersh has been running monthly offline tastings of folks from the Squire's Bulletin Board, and this was the first one I attended. I had the honor of organizing a table that included Michael Gordon, Bryan Ghows, Doug and Lyn Lee, Justin Wells, and Stewart Todd. It was a fun group and a great lineup!

Flight 1 (4 Notes)

With a first course of Spinach, Oregonzola, Spiced Nuts and Air Dried Beef Salad we started with some white Rhônes. These often seem to show poorly in tastings, but I am finding them to be an acquired taste and one that I am increasingly liking!

  • 2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The nose is fairly restrained showing stoney minerality and some fruit-pit notes. The palate is nutty and extremely dry showing loads of minerality, very precise and clean, yet not very giving. The finish shows roasted nuts.

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  • 2003 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The exotic and flamboyant nose shows marzipan, clove, and peach pit, clearly the product of a very ripe vintage. The wine hits you with big mouthfeel, powerful and ripe and then finishes out with a rich, oily and warm texture. It was a fascinating contrast to the more structured and classic 2001 Clos des Papes Blanc, and I preferred this riper and more exotic 2003.

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  • 2003 Domaine de la Becassonne Côtes du Rhône Blanc

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

    The nose is lighter than the other whites, hinting at lemon peel, minerals and rainwater. The palate is fresh and clean with surprising acidity. I rather liked this for its cleanliness and purity.

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  • 1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Sterimberg

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Deep gold color. The nose is funky with somewhat oxidized notes. The palate is nutty and extremely dry, rich and yet wacky, at a somewhat awkward point in its evolution yet clearly with so much potential.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

With Foie Gras in a Pear and Demi-glace Sauce I provided a flight of wines that I thought would match nicely. For me the Selbach-Oster was on another plane, one of the most stunning wines of the tasting.

Flight 3 (3 Notes)

Ah, at last, with Ravioli with Beef Shank Filling and Cabernet Garlic Rosemary Butter we broke into the big boys and what a terrific start!

  • 1988 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Very cloudy in the glass. The nose greets you with a Southern Rhône pile of herbs and spices as well as lightly oxidized notes of soy sauce. With air white pepper, ash and mineral come to the fore, mmm. The palate explodes with black-licorice/aniseed, black olives. This is silky smooth and enveloping, so suave and yet so explosive as it gets more air. Fantastic wine!

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  • 1989 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The nose is absolutely fantastic, textbook Châteauneuf-du-Pape, tapenade, olives and raging garrigue. Alas, this was the best part of the wine. The palate, while lovely, was less giving. Mature with somewhat sharp acidity. It did improve considerably with air, getting sweeter and showing beautiful notes of cherry, clearly a big mouthful of mature Grenache.

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  • 1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The nose is crushing, ripe, exuding huge notes of beef blood, iodine, roasted plum and pepper. Gamey and wild, this is still extremely youthful and tannic, yet I loved every sip.

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

As if the first flight wasn't pleasurable enough, with Grilled Grass Fed Double Beef Entrecôte with Peppercorn Sauce we broke into a gorgeous flight of 4 wines.

Flight 5 (2 Notes)

Finally with Molten Chocolate Cake with Grand Marnier Truffle Center we uncorked a couple of ports, although I was beyond taking notes at this point.

Closing

It was great meeting so many folks and putting names to faces!

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