Gareth's Post-lockdown Piedmont

Noize
Tasted Wednesday, September 9, 2020 by NickA with 140 views

Introduction

The brief was simple - it had to be from Piedmont...

Flight 1 - Sardines on toast, Chimichurri (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Cep Tagliatelle (2 Notes)

  • 1971 Marchesi di Barolo Langhe Barbera 89 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    Very brown colour gave me some concern, but at first the wine belied that indication - very mature, certainly, with hints of furniture polish, but definitely alive, tasty and interesting. Unfortunately it didn't enjoy contact with the air and after about 15 minutes started to remind me of spicy, vinegary H.P. sauce.

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  • 1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Some lovely pine needle and herbs. Retaining plenty of acidity and structure made this a great food wine, and I didn't find it particularly tertiary, but I did get the sense that it was on the edge and thus probably opened at the right time.

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Flight 3 - Slow Cooked Beef Cheek, Celeriac Puree, Roscoff Onion (2 Notes)

  • 2004 Azelia Barolo San Rocco 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Double-decanted about two hours before it was drunk. Surprised at how modern this was - plush, with notes of spice, wood and coffee, it reminded me of a Pappy van Winkle Bourbon. That's not altogether a bad thing, given Pappy is tasty stuff, but the wine was too much like a Super Tuscan or Right Bank BDX for me to love it. Maybe this was exacerbated by drinking it alongside a Nebbiolo made in a completely different style.

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  • 1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Nicely mature - slightly volatile, gamey nose, and lovely deep cherry cola-accented fruit on the palate. Bright acidity made it a great match for the rich food it accompanied. Elegant and enjoyable, but (unlike some of my dining companions) I wasn't excited by this - perhaps partly because my glass had a lot of sediment in it.

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Flight 4 - Venison Wellington, Truffle Jus (3 Notes)

  • 2007 M. Marengo Barolo Bricco delle Viole 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Rich and floral, at first sniff this brought to mind a ripe Beaujolais. Although certainly a warm, dense wine, it had sufficient acidity to keep it in balance. A pleasure to drink but not particularly complex.

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  • 2008 Nervi Gattinara Vigna Molsino 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara

    Darker in colour than its flight-mate, but actually a much softer, quieter wine. Game, tobacco, and pretty long finish. Although it filled out with time in the glass it couldn't avoid being slightly overborne by the other wines tonight - but this was one of the wines I could most imagine wanting mutiple glasses of.

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  • 2009 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo Flawed

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Not obviously reeking of TCA, but felt stripped of fruit and a little musty on the finish. Seemed oxidised too. Oh well.

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Flight 5 - Selection of Farm House Cheeses (2 Notes)

  • 2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Lifted and elegant. Plenty of soft strawberry fruit, and seductive and drinkable, but lacked the impact and the complexity of the 2015 vintage of this wine. Interesting to note that AG says this particular wine will need time to fill out on the mid-palate, as that would be a welcome development and a reason not to drink these all now.

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  • 2015 Silvia Rivella Barbaresco 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Characteristically 2015 - easy in its own skin and full of juicy pleasure. Very approachable and fun already, although there's no hurry to start these, let along finish them.

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Closing

No stand-outs for me, although with the two obvious exceptions everything showed pretty well. No formal WOTN although I suspect the Giacosa would have been up there; mine was probably the Pora.

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