Jeroboam Club Tasting: Wines of Portugal

A splendid evening of interesting wines, excellent company, and good tapas. Some tasty bottles on show - a couple with the potential to be very special in a few more years time. Overall, though, I wasn't blown away and some wines were below the quality I'd expect at the price point.

• 2005 Quinta dos Roques Encruzado 87 Points

  Portugal, Beiras, Dão

  Very pale gold. Nice nutty and floral nose with elderflower, lemon, pear and marzipan. Attractive on the palate, medium bodied, good fruit; hint of oxidisation but freshened with well-integrated acidity. Offers nice drinking now - good as an aperitif or with food.

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• 2006 Niepoort Douro Redoma Branco 80 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Very pale white gold. Toasty, yeasty, bread dough on the nose, with pear drops and lemon. Oaky but yet lean. Very oaky on the palate, masking the fruit, a rather oily finish. Will the oak ever integrate? Not for me.

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• 2004 Herdade de São Miguel Reserva 84 Points

  Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano

  Deep plum red, garnet. Edgy green-tinged fruit but seductively silky with creamy oak. Beefy, meaty, peppery tastes in the mouth; liqourice too; unusual; medium-full bodied; dry tannins; a slightly bitter finish. Better on the nose than the palate. Not sure this will ever develop sweet fruit to balance the tannins.

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• 2001 Herdade do Esporão Esporão Reserva 86 Points

  Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo

  Deep plum. Slightly stinky, overripe fruit and cabbage on the nose, and a bit plasticky. Better in the mouth, with a firm initial hit; prominent acidity and tannin; falls away in the rear-palate before leaving a nice meaty finish. Unusual wine, drinking well, characterful.

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• 2000 Quinta do Carmo Vinho Regional Alentejano 85 Points

  Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano

  Deep plum ruby colour. Creamy oak on the nose, with raspberry ripple icecream, but also some smokey, gamey and leather notes. Forward. But unassertive on the palate, lacks grip. Slips down well with a reaonable finish. Perfectly pleasant, inoffensive, nice enough but lacks character. A middle of the road wine, AOR, REO Speedwagon.

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• 2003 Luis Pato Vinha Velha Vinha Barrosa 89 Points

  Portugal, Beiras, Vinho Regional Beiras

  Dark plum in colour. Edgy green-tinged fruit, plums, spicey, orange peel. Spicy fruit on the palate - sour plums - and good acidity, with muddy and peppery tannins. Unusual, a bit rustic, but rather more-ish. Good now.

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• 1999 Casa de Saima Bairrada Reserva Flawed

  Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada

  Stinky, bretty nose, VA on palate, unattractive

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• 2005 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro Meandro 89 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Dark inky purple-black. Serious nose of cassis, plums, blueberry and vanilla; clove spice and pepper. Youthful and rather closed on the palate, but a good mouthfeel and structure; dry tannins. Impressive, promising but needs time. VG potential.

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• 2005 Quinta do Passadouro Douro Passadouro 90 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Dark inky purple black. Sweet cassis, vanilla nose; spicey with clove and orange peel; redcurrants and josterberries; a hint of slightly musty old wood. On the palate: smokey, dry, austere but with some sweet, creamy, (perhaps over-extracted) fruit. Good lead pencils backbone. Tarry. Nice but unusual, with some musty, woody, bitterish notes.

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• 2004 Lavradores de Feitoria Douro Meruge 88 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Deep dark ruby. Cola bottle sweets aroma, with creamy raspberry. Very modern styled. Creamy, sweet, attractive fruit on the palate, but lacks a bit of grip and character. Nice enough in an international style.

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• 2003 Quinta da Terra Feita de Cima Douro Poeria 91 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Deep inky blackish purple. Slightly stinky on the nose at first, but blowing off to show creamy raspberry and dark stone fruit and liqourice. Mouthfilling, with good grip and acidity; good structure and good fruit - tannin - acidity balance. Nice smokey sweet finish. Tasty. Just hitting its stride now, with the potential to be even better.

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• 2001 Quinta de la Rosa Douro Reserva 92 Points

  Portugal, Douro

  Deep dark plum. Sweet and smokey on the nose, gamey, reminiscent of smoked ribs. Cassis and plum fruit. Liquorice. More smoke. Sweet fruit fills the mouth; VG grip through the mouth; strong finish; very flavoursome. A tad rustic, but very flavoursome. A big wine in its early maturity. (But would you want to drink more than one glass?)

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