Extremely youthful, tight and minerally but already completely harmonious, seamless and with inimitable DP character. Will be great but needs (much) more time, should have 98 point potential.
Pale tawny colour; caramelly but clean nose, develops notes of liquorice and currants; vestiges of red fruit on the palate and a hint of honey, fresh and with a little prickle; clean flavours and good length. Very advanced but still sound. Objectively (way) past best, so not rated.
Jasmin and candy corn on the nose, creamy lemon and oyster shell; relatively ripe and full-bodied in style, on the softer side, gentle bitters, good length. Completely ready.
Remarkably youthful appearance, medium buttercup yellow; completely fresh nose, flint, hint of warmth and salinity from the wood, subtle but pure varietal character, hint of truffle; fresh and creamy palate, not even hinting at its age, salted cream; gentle, subtle and layered finish. Difficult to score - I have no point of reference, but it is certainly spectacular for age.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Quite a big and bold style, ripe fruit with quite a tropical edge, not as scintillating as the Clos de la Mouchère which accompanied it, slightly duller expression, well-integrated oak, zesty finish, lemon cream.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Much more minerally than the Folatières which preceded it, marvellous terroir expression reminiscent of Pucelles (the Clos is actually in Les Perrières, playful ripe fruit with a slight tropical edge, perfectly judged oak, already silky and harmonious, beautifully balanced, intense and flowing, excellent resonance and length. Drinking well already and until 2035.
Light and gentle, gravelly, surprisingly lively and fresh, still with crushed red fruit, hint of undergrowth, vestiges of tannic grip, decent finish. Holding up surprisingly well.
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Mid-shoulder level. Hint of volatility on the nose, meaty style, solid weight for a 1981, good tannic grip, a sturdy wine. Bottles with better levels may still be good. Not rated.
Needs time to develop its crisp and fresh Cabernet character, cool and minerally but with warmth and spice, slender but complete, retains good tannic grip, hint of green on the finish.
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Tasted blind. Quite closed on the nose, ripe phenolics, remarkably fresh and youthful for age. Not easy to pin down, but the structure of the acidity pointed in the direction of Sangiovese.
Crushed red fruit, still retains a certain sweetness and ripe tannic grip, spicy oak, needs some oxygen to open up, slightly cool and attenuated finish.
Bright and lively Spätlese, hints of wax and honey, crisp acidity, white peach and creamy lemon, aromatic green herbs, very good resonance and length. Lovely.
AP 10 07. Ripe and deep, honey and caramel, very sweet, almost Beerenauslese weight, very concentrated but with the acidity to balance the richness, excellent tension and length.
A very unusual Spätlese for this sweet and ripe vintage, bursting with zesty acidity, almost feinherb in character (it definitely has bitters), very intense, peach and lime, fresh mint, long finish. Consistent with my tasting note from 2013, but continues to be a bit of a puzzle.
It looks like there is a lot of bottle variation with this wine, but this bottle was pretty marvellous, as already indicated by its youthful colour. Mature and intense flavours, fresh and energetic palate, crisp acidity, very powerful for a Carbonnieux, cream and vegetables, excellent length. Belies its age.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Finesse, elegance, freshness and exemplary brightness of fruit, some evolution on the nose, some tannic grip which needs time to resolve. Aromatically it was not as expressive as I had expected, but I don't know whether it's the bottle or a closed phase.
Bottled 2019, bottle no. 578 from 999 produced. Marvellously intense and powerful, a beast of a wine, the sweetness masked by the power, salted nuts and apricots, unending finish. Top notch - just lacks a bit of complexity for an even higher score.
Light but rich palate, medium sweet, lemon and honey, delicately juicy and sweet palate, slightly drying bitters, long and creamy finish. Very attractive.
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne 95 Points
France, Champagne
Extremely youthful, tight and minerally but already completely harmonious, seamless and with inimitable DP character. Will be great but needs (much) more time, should have 98 point potential.
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1981 Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Imperial Rosé
France, Champagne
Pale tawny colour; caramelly but clean nose, develops notes of liquorice and currants; vestiges of red fruit on the palate and a hint of honey, fresh and with a little prickle; clean flavours and good length. Very advanced but still sound. Objectively (way) past best, so not rated.
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2012 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Jasmin and candy corn on the nose, creamy lemon and oyster shell; relatively ripe and full-bodied in style, on the softer side, gentle bitters, good length. Completely ready.
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2002 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 92 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Fresh and youthful, lifted nose, flowers and flower honey, crisp acidity balanced by gentle sweetness, mild bitters, slightly light finish.
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1982 Château-Grillet (Neyret-Gachet) Château-Grillet 95 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Château-Grillet
Remarkably youthful appearance, medium buttercup yellow; completely fresh nose, flint, hint of warmth and salinity from the wood, subtle but pure varietal character, hint of truffle; fresh and creamy palate, not even hinting at its age, salted cream; gentle, subtle and layered finish. Difficult to score - I have no point of reference, but it is certainly spectacular for age.
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2019 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Quite a big and bold style, ripe fruit with quite a tropical edge, not as scintillating as the Clos de la Mouchère which accompanied it, slightly duller expression, well-integrated oak, zesty finish, lemon cream.
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2019 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Much more minerally than the Folatières which preceded it, marvellous terroir expression reminiscent of Pucelles (the Clos is actually in Les Perrières, playful ripe fruit with a slight tropical edge, perfectly judged oak, already silky and harmonious, beautifully balanced, intense and flowing, excellent resonance and length. Drinking well already and until 2035.
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1981 Tour de Corbin Despagne 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Magnum. Mature and meaty nose, cool and fresh palate with some sève and nice tannic grip, good length.
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1981 Château Haut-Bages Libéral 87 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Magnum. Oxidative nose, burnt character, lovage, palate is still fresh and upright with a bit of fruit left, thin and short finish. Decaying.
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1981 Château Matras 86 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Light and cold, tobacco, oyster shell, still integrated but has lost its fruit, short and light finish.
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1981 Château du Tertre 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Light and gentle, gravelly, surprisingly lively and fresh, still with crushed red fruit, hint of undergrowth, vestiges of tannic grip, decent finish. Holding up surprisingly well.
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1981 Château Troplong Mondot
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Mid-shoulder level. Hint of volatility on the nose, meaty style, solid weight for a 1981, good tannic grip, a sturdy wine. Bottles with better levels may still be good. Not rated.
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1981 Château Magdelaine 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Good level, expressive nose, quite impressive body and weight for 1981, meaty and spicy, hint of plum, ripe tannins, clean and transparent finish.
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1981 Château Canon 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Slightly green on the nose, slender but lively, cool and minerally, quite tight and a bit thin on the finish.
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1981 Château L'Eglise-Clinet 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Pristine bottle. Very impressive, shows some age but retains a lovely Pomerol expression, an outstanding 1981.
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1981 Château Latour Grand Vin 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Needs time to develop its crisp and fresh Cabernet character, cool and minerally but with warmth and spice, slender but complete, retains good tannic grip, hint of green on the finish.
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2004 Tenuta Friggiali Brunello di Montalcino Donna Olga 92 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Tasted blind. Quite closed on the nose, ripe phenolics, remarkably fresh and youthful for age. Not easy to pin down, but the structure of the acidity pointed in the direction of Sangiovese.
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1981 Château Haut-Brion
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Mediocre level. Tired nose, thin and cold palate. Over the hill.
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1981 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Crushed red fruit, still retains a certain sweetness and ripe tannic grip, spicy oak, needs some oxygen to open up, slightly cool and attenuated finish.
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2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese 92 Points
Germany, Nahe
Bright and lively Spätlese, hints of wax and honey, crisp acidity, white peach and creamy lemon, aromatic green herbs, very good resonance and length. Lovely.
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2006 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel Auction 95 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP 10 07. Ripe and deep, honey and caramel, very sweet, almost Beerenauslese weight, very concentrated but with the acidity to balance the richness, excellent tension and length.
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2006 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese 91 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A very unusual Spätlese for this sweet and ripe vintage, bursting with zesty acidity, almost feinherb in character (it definitely has bitters), very intense, peach and lime, fresh mint, long finish. Consistent with my tasting note from 2013, but continues to be a bit of a puzzle.
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2007 Château Carbonnieux Blanc 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
It looks like there is a lot of bottle variation with this wine, but this bottle was pretty marvellous, as already indicated by its youthful colour. Mature and intense flavours, fresh and energetic palate, crisp acidity, very powerful for a Carbonnieux, cream and vegetables, excellent length. Belies its age.
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2011 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Very lactic, uneasy, flowers and sulphur. Not rated.
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2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Finesse, elegance, freshness and exemplary brightness of fruit, some evolution on the nose, some tannic grip which needs time to resolve. Aromatically it was not as expressive as I had expected, but I don't know whether it's the bottle or a closed phase.
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1981 Domaine Touchais Coteaux du Layon 90 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon
Full golden colour. Honeyed and caramelly nose, lovely botrytis, medium sweet palate, very mature. Time to drink up.
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1994 Dow Porto Vintage 94 Points
Portugal, Douro, Porto
A very good showing tonight, more youthful than my previous bottle. Vibrant and fresh, bright cherry fruit and spices, mild tannins.
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1981 Blandy's Madeira Malmsey 95 Points
Portugal, Madeira
Bottled 2019, bottle no. 578 from 999 produced. Marvellously intense and powerful, a beast of a wine, the sweetness masked by the power, salted nuts and apricots, unending finish. Top notch - just lacks a bit of complexity for an even higher score.
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1981 Château Doisy-Védrines 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Light but rich palate, medium sweet, lemon and honey, delicately juicy and sweet palate, slightly drying bitters, long and creamy finish. Very attractive.
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1981 Château d'Yquem 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Deep and rich wine, intense and powerful, a younger version of the 1970, apricot and new oak, salty and long finish.
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1981 Francis Darroze Bas Armagnac Bas Armagnac Domaine de Lahitte 93 Points
France, Southwest France, Gascony, Bas Armagnac
Intense and deep and powerful, immensely concentrated but also a bit hot and stalky, vanilla and spices, long and intense finish. Masculine.
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