Martin Weiner Vogüé Musigny & Bonnes-Mares tasting (plus Dugat Griottes-Chambertin)
Martin Weiner's home in Westwood, Los Angeles, California
Tasted Friday, February 26, 2010 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 2,072 views
Introduction
Another lovely tasting of young and mature Burgundies from a few of the appellation's great terroirs and producers, chez Weiner. The focus was on Comte de Vogüé's outstanding Bonnes Mares and Musigny Grand Crus, with a 7-year vertical of the Musigny, from 1964 to 2004, and a 3-year vertical of the Bonnes Mares, from '99 to '06. We also had a 3-year vertical of Groffier Bonnes Mares for comparison, '78 to '04, and other Bonnes Mares from Bruno Clair and Laurent Roumier. To finish, we sampled Dugat Griottes-Chambertins from '05 and '96, and the Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin.
I'm a big fan of Comte de Vogüé Musigny and Bonnes Mares, and had tasted virtually all the wines in those flights multiple times before. The two that were new to me were the '64 Musigny, which was wonderfully good for at least the first 15 to 20 minutes (probably shouldn't have been decanted before pouring), and the surprisingly good '91 Musigny. The great de Vogüés of the evening for me were the '91 and '78 Musignys (my third time tasting the '78, and this bottle was almost as good as the first time I tried it). The other stars of the evening were the '78 Groffier Bonnes Mares (outstanding all three times I've tried it now), the '96 Dugat Griottes-Chambertin and the '05 Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin. That said, however, virtually all of our wines showed very well. My only two disappointments were both from the '04 vintage, which is one that I've had a number of bad experiences with so far, and have avoided buying. The '04 de Vogüé Musigny had the distinctive and unwelcome green pea note that many of the '04 Burgs seem to have taken on (due to large numbers of frightened lady bugs in many vineyards that year, according to the best theory I've heard) and the '04 Groffier Bonnes Mares had a much higher brett level than when I've tasted it before.
All in all, a very enjoyable tasting of many of my favorite Burgundies, and a nice incentive for getting down to L.A. to see some of my longtime winetasting buddies.
Flight 1 - Opening Flight (3 Notes)
Flight 2 - Groffier Bonnes Mares Flight (3 Notes)
Flight 3 - Vogüé Bonnes Mares Flight (3 Notes)
Flight 4 - First Vogüé Musigny Flight (3 Notes)
Martin put the '02 Mugnier Les Fuées in as a blind wine, and he usually includes at least one blind wine in his Burgundy tastings. In the past, the blind bottles have usually (but not always) been Pinot, and have been from California, Oregon, New Zealand and Burgundy. In this case, nearly everyone was guessing it was a Burgundy, and I went on a limb and guessed a 1er Cru Chambolle-Musigny from the late '90s. I was delighted when it turned out to be the Mugnier, but was surprised that this '02 seems fairly advanced in its maturity for an '02.
Flight 5 - Second Vogüé Musigny Flight (3 Notes)
Flight 6 - Third Vogüé Musigny Flight (2 Notes)
Closing
Carol Isago (Martin's wife)
2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium garnet red color; tart cherry, spice, orange, baked tart cherry nose; concentrated, tight, tart cherry, tart red fruit, orange, spice, mineral palate witm medium acidity and sweet, velvety tannins; medium-plus finish
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2006 Domaine Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; tight cherry, sous bois nose; tight tart red fruit, cherry, sous bois, tart raspberry palate with good acidity and grip; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
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1999 Domaine Laurent Roumier Bonnes Mares 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Slightly cloudy, bricking medium raspberry red color with pale meniscus; maturing red berry, soy sauce, cherry nose; tasty, rounded tart cherry, mandarin orange, mineral, tart strawberry palate with good acidity and depth; long finish 93+ pts.
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