Burgundy Potpourri

Nothing profound, but some pleasant surprises provided by a few bottles that performed above expectations.

• 2005 Château de Maligny Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Light greenish. Sulfur and saltiness. Light and lean for this vintage with a slightly off finish perhaps imparted by the sulfur.

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• 2007 Clos Reissier Pouilly-Fuissé

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Pale with some green. Some toast and faint tropical fruit on the nose. The palate surprises with a lean, spiritous quality and excellent minerality. Pleasingly light and focused for the appellation.

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• 2007 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Light yellow. Floral. Light, good acidity and slightly toasty finish. Not fruit driven nor overoaked. A very nice, typical village Chassagne.

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• 2005 Domaine Parent Corton Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Yellow with some green. Ripest, richest nose of the 4 whites. Prominent orange and spice. Tends to fullish body but neither too dense nor too heavy. Good acidity. Bitter citric fruit and the bitterness carries over to the finish (due to the wood?).

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• 2005 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Emotion de Terroirs

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Good saturation of color. Earthy, funky aromas. Medium weight and a chocolatey core of dark cherry fruit. Simple but very well constituted for a Bourgogne.

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• 2006 Domaine Joseph Roty Bourgogne Cuvée Pressonnier

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Pale center, rose edge. Very different expression than the Girardin with a lighter, more floral tone. Light weight with rose petals and red fruit. Adequate acidity, black licorice on finish. Another good wine at this level.

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• 2006 Antonin Guyon Chambolle-Musigny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Rose center, watery edge. Typical Chambolle nose with pungent strawberry, but there is also strong wood char which overwhelms the rather delicate fruit and is too much for the wine. Bitter, short finish.

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• 2006 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Very pale. Backward nose. Very pretty, lighter weight black Pinot fruit with good acidity. The problem is that there is not much to it beyond the entry except for a harsh, tannic finish. Promising start but the balance is not there.

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• 2007 Domaine Jean Féry & fils Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru

  Transparent medium ruby. High toned nose. Piercing black fruit that is both lively and sappy. Sense of pencil shavings in the finish is unusual and calls to mind Cabernet-based wines rather than Burgundy. There is much to like about this, but it has some curious elements as well.

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• 2003 François Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Medium ruby with bricking, not completely clear. Rich black fruit with rounder, liqueur-like feel, but this is not hot and the tannic finish snaps it back into focus. Not the most complex wine, but the vintage has given this enough flesh to tame the Pommard structure. Reasonable value at $37.

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