Burgs 02, 03 and 05

Last night I was invited to sit in with a Burgundy group to taste some wines. The theme was wines from individual vineyards. All wines were popped and poured and enjoyed over a couple of hours. In my circle of friends, there are two producers whose wines always seem to do very well blind. Serafin and Dennis Mortet (when he was still alive and making the wines). This night was no exception.

• 2002 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault Les Narvaux 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Green gold in color. This bottle was drinking young and delicious. A bit of gun powder on the nose with some citrus. Oily texture. Green apples on the palate. With air a bit of sweetness came out. Long finish. Good acidity. A very nice Chard.

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• 2003 J.M. Boillot Meursault Les Charrons 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Green gold in color. The nose is smoky with some apples. On the palate, this is flabby with some sweet grapefruit and red apples. Slightly bitter on the finish. Does the extra sunshine result in that bitter finish that so many Cal Chards have (and 03 Burgs)? The bitterness is not bad, but it is distracting. Anyway, this was a good wine, but just a bit flabby and air did not help it. Still, it was young and had great fruit. Very nice.

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• 2003 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Ruby in color, clear and bright. The nose is very tight at first. Never really showed a lot. Cherries and some pie filling. I got a bit of acid tingle on my tongue at first. With air, this showed more cherries and a bit of earth. Complex and showing some root beer on the finish. I liked this wine. It was not over ripe and in fact, seems to need a bit mroe time.

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• 2003 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Serafin always seem to do well in our group. Ruby in color. The nose is dusty, earthy, cherries and just a bit of funk. On the palate, this has complex layers of cherries and earth. Juicy texture. Clean. I though this might be an 05 because of how young it drank and how tight the layering was. Very nice showing, but this wine needs some time.

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• 2002 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Combe-du-Dessus 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Mine and the groups WOTN. Of course, one always is a bit sad to drink these wines. Denis is missed, but he was a genius. Ruby in color. The nose has cherries, cherry powder and a slight funk. This is a big wine with bold fruit. Lots of complex cherries and layering. Slightly tart cherries on the finish. This is not a 1er Cru, and perhaps it drinks a bit earlier, but I think this has a long life ahead.

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• 2002 Domaine Arlaud Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Ruby color. The nose is earthy with cherries and iodine. Nice wine that has a good balance. This seemed the most ready to drink of all the wine on the table. Slightly minerally, nice cherry fruit. Good balance. I am sure this lasts for a while, but I doubt it gets much better. Still, nice to drink.

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• 2005 Pierre Morey Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Ruby in color. The nose has some cherries and some alcohol. On the palate, there is a complexity here, but the wine is light bodied and slightly flabby. Decent wine, but not in the class of the other wines offered. Just seems lacking.

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• 2002 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Another great Serafin wine although I thought this one was a lot tighter than the 03. The nose has cherries, funk, root beer and some cola. ON the palate, this is soft with cherries turning slightly bitter on the finish. This never seemed to open the way others did although three people had this as their WOTN. I would hold these for a few more years before opening another.

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• 2002 Château Coutet Barsac 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Yellow gold in color. The nose is lacking. Perhaps some oranges. On the palate, there is some texture here, but not a lot of sweetness or fruit. It is pleasant and fine to drink, but nothing more.

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• 2003 Château Haut-Claverie 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  A wine that was new to me. Apparently there are rumors of some connection to Yquem. Golden in color with a great nose of pineapple and honey. Lacking some cut to make it truly outstanding, but this was really very good. I am told this retails for under $30 per 375 and that is a nice price. do they make this every vintage?

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