Blind Mature Bordeaux, 1966-1995

The idea behind this event was wines at a minimum of 15 years old, and around second growth for those classified. I decided to do this blind to eliminate any pre-conceived notions, and also because I knew some of the older wines would likely drink much younger than they really were. Everyone arrived on-time, and we began with a pleasing, refreshing Cremant.


Harry came prepared with a case of glasses! The rest of us survived with our meager one.

• NV Jaillance Crémant de Bordeaux Cuvée de l'Abbaye 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux

  No formal notes written as we consumed this as people were arriving. I found it very quaffable and pleasing... very nice for the price.

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• 1995 Château Trotanoy 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  On the nose, this is showing fairly young with some graphite, nice dusty cherry, and fairly big and dark. Really great structure and balance on the palate, some forest floor, and big tannins build. There's great pleasing cherry fruit as well. On the finish this initially attacks with some cracked pepper and mud, transitioning to the cherry. There's still lots of tannins to chew on, and even a little bit of heat (even at the label's 13.5%, the highest of the night). The finish is tighter than the palate, but despite the slight heat I found this to be a very pleasing, well rounded wine that tasted fairly delicious.

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• 1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  A bit brighter fruit here, almost candied on the nose, and very pretty with some floral aspects. Very soft and pleasing aromas that seem to dance lightly in my nose. Big on the palate showing some apple skins, with very pretty and pleasing blueberry and dirty strawberries. Delicious! Transitions very nicely to the finish which shows some briar, dirty strawberry, and is very pleasing and integrated. A delicious, tasty wine drinking very juicy right now.

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• 1990 Château Haut-Batailley 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  On the nose, some funk, a burnt marshmallow, and the char on the outside of a grilled steak (but none of the meatiness). Dirt and dust on the palate, mud, very dusty and dirty cherries, burning wood, and all surrounded by solid tannins. A bit lighter on the finish with some tannins. Quite good on the palate, but the finish certainly falls off a bit and loses me.

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• 1990 Château Rausan-Ségla 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  I opened this when it arrived and upon removing the foil noticed it was slightly leaking; the top of the cork was freshly moist. Seemed to be in tact. Very pleasing aromas, showing some mint flavored floride paste at the dentist, something artificial about it... Natasha suggested Flinstone vitamins, and I totally agree. There's also some wet wood and must. On the palate it's quite musty, like a garbage can full of wet plywood. Hours later this became more pleasing with mild fruit and quite soft. Finish is musty and dusty, with this mouth puckering weirdness.

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• 1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Everyone was very surprised when this one was revealed. Just did not show very well tonight. The nose is showing a little bit of brett and some mint. Pleasing mid-palate though, showing some dirty cherries, peppermint, and a rubber band. Back to must on the finish, some dust, and building spicy black pepper, eucalyptus, and dirty plums.

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• 1982 Château La Dominique 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Some spice, pepper, and dirty fruit on the nose. Light on the palate with not much going on beyond dusty bright berries. Feels very resolved. Pleasing dusty finish, but overall quite light.

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• 1978 Château Brane-Cantenac 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Slow-oxygenated for 5 hours before event. Nose shows some must, but in a pleasing way... very pleasing. I completely understand my dusty library book from my previous note. There's also some eucalyptus. Great palate, with still plenty of tannins, some apples, dusty fruits, and very nice acid. Really nice finish with great balance and beautiful structure. Again nice acid on the finish. The flavors here lingered for minutes after a sip and this was just beautifully integrated. A surprise to many when it was revealed, as it was in the top 3 for most everyone.

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• 1966 Château Haut-Bailly 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  I was shocked in ecstasy with the first sip. I knew these had to be getting up there in age, but this smelled quite bright and young. The delineation of aromas was great, showing some crab apples, beautiful blueberry, raspberries; a bit raspy but so beautiful. "Amazing, smells like heaven," I wrote. Really nice structure and fruit on the palate. Amazing balance with still soft integrated tannins building, very sexy structure, fire ash and hardwood ash. Great structure on the finish as well, very very pleasing with great, amazing length. I wrote amazing length three times on the finish... This was one of the most seamless, integrated, pleasing wines I've ever consumed. I just remember saying over and over again, "This is blowing my head off." I can still feel this wine in my senses. Most people expected this to be 1982 at the oldest. This was also slow-oxygenated for 5 hours before the event.

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A room of surprise at the age of the '66 Haut-Bailly when it was revealed.

• 1966 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Much funkier on the nose than the previous wine, but overall fairly light. Wow, I was not expecting the palate after the light nose, but there's quite a bit of fruit here. Fantastic palate, in fact. Shocking structure and balance, even though it's surprisingly a bit candied. This too was more about the lacy texture and integration than any individual flavors. Wonderful, pleasing, long and complex, full finish. Lingered on the tongue for a minute after the fact. Stellar. Slow oxygenated for 5 hours before the event.

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• 1986 Château Rieussec 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Great, delicious nose, some house paint, rich pineapple on the grill (with caramelized outside), green apple skin, and kiln dried clay. Deep palate, very creamy and soft. Nice zing on the finish of this pleasing wine. I had this a few weeks earlier, but this was a better showing... really delicious.

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What a fantastic evening of great wine with friends. Not a bad wine in the lot of them tonight, and some real stunners as well. I think this was the only event I've done where there was NO wine left at the end of the night, and the dump bucket had only a few ounces in it. Of course I also didn't go to bed until 4am, so we had plenty of time to polish everything off. I can still feel the '66 Haut-Bailly on my lips... glad I have another bottle.

I hope everyone looks forward to future events as much as I do. It was a great time.

wines 7, 8, and 9