Mature Bordeaux at David's

David arranged a wonderful evening of tasting mature (relatively speaking in some cases) Bordeaux. Th guidelines were nothing younger than 15 years old, only Bordeaux, and, generally, second-growth or better (or equivalent). It was a very educational evening of tasting through nine dry reds and one Sauternes. David not only arranged the tasting but supplied three oldest wines of the tasting!

• 1995 Château Trotanoy 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Intense yet somewhat reticent nose of iron, blood, red clay, tobacco and red fruit that built and bloomed over the course of 3 hours. Similarly bloody - almost viscous - on the palate with substantial ripe tannins and flavors of tar, black cherries and coffee beans. One taster noted that this wine seemed 'hot' but I didn't get that impression. Very long, 30s +, finish that built to a tarry climax and subsided with more tannins. This is a breathtaking wine in the making and one that can be enjoyed now but I'll hold off another 15 years before trying it again.

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• 1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 84 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Very green, unripe even, on the nose with aromas of sour cherries, grass, spices and licorice. I swore throughout the evening that this must be a 1994. Full and complete on the palate with a richness contrary to the nose, though still somewhat harsh and lean. Long finish filed with dusty tannins. I was stunned when the label was revealed because this represented neither expectations for this estate nor my expectations for the vintage. Where was that inimitable Pichon-Lalande perfume? Perhaps this wine is just in an odd place right now.

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• 1990 Château Haut-Batailley 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Lovely nose of prunes, dried spices and cherry compote. Very nice, silky even, on the palate with some unresolved tannin and good acidity keep it in focus. Rather short on the finish. Lovely mature Boreaux from a good vintage at the peak of its drinking window.

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• 1990 Château Rausan-Ségla 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  A rather interesting, somewhat peculiar, nose for Rausan-Segla with aromeas of tea, flowers, and spice coupled with mint and something vaguely medicinal (I think Natasha called it 'Flintstones chewable vitamins'). Similarly interesting yet peculiar on the palate where moderately mature Bordeaux flavors met with a syrah-ish jamminess. Good finish that is still tannic. This wine won points for interest and complexity but it's not my style of Bordeaux and certainly not what I expect from this estate. Very, very good, in its way but not very good Margaux.

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• 1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Gushy, funky nose of stewed fruit, cedar, and some brett. I noted 'California' in my comments as this reminded me of a ripe yet over-the-hill California cab on the nose. Very round and fruity on the palate with a somewhat short finish. Again, I was stunned when the label was revealed as this bore no resemblance to my prior experience with this wine. Better than the 1995 though tonight.

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• 1982 Château La Dominique 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Bright and fresh on the nose. Lovely, complex aromas of spring flowers, fresh cherries and herb tea. Lighter on the palate than any other wine in this tasting but still complete, full and fruity. Tasted much younger to me than '82. Moderate, slightly tart finish. This wine reminded me more of a mid-90s pinot than a Bordeaux from a very ripe vintage. Simply outstanding.

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• 1978 Château Brane-Cantenac 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Beautiful nose of damp earth, beets, cedar shavings, spices and fruit. Ripe and mature on the palate with good fruit, balanced tannin and nice acidity. Moderate finish. Both the fragrance and the palate impression grew more complex and interesting over 3 hours. I thought this a '90 from Pauillac or St. Julien. What a revelation when the label was revealed! Outstanding.

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• 1966 Château Haut-Bailly 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Glorious, effusive, intense, complex nose of tobacco, cedar, clay, spices, ripe fruit and menthol. Ripe and round on the palate with fully resolved tannins and wonderful acidity. Long, coffee-laden finsh. Terrific wine, though not quite as balanced and elegant as the Ducru.

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• 1966 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Simply breathtaking fragrance of flowers, cedar, tea, tobacco and spice, all beautifully balanced and complimentary. I swore this was a Margaux. Clearly a mature wine on the palate with all of the tannin resolved, a silky, mouthfeel and good acidity. The finish was moderate, with enough tannin and fruit to suggest a long drinking window and, suprisingly, a much younger wine. To me, this was the epitome of great, mature, Bordeaux from a renowned estate. It was not as intense or complex as some but its balance and elegance were without peer. My WOTN. Thank you, David!

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• 1986 Château Rieussec 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Moderate caramel color. Very sweet on the nose with aromas of butterscotch, violets, candied citrus and almonds. Unctuous and complex on the palate with all the usual Rieussec fruit groups present - tangerine, pineapple, mango, lychee - but lacking in acidity to pull it all together. All in all a very good but not quite outstanding Rieussec.

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In summary, this tasting re-affirmed that hackneyed phrase, 'Good things come to those who wait.' The oldest wines were stunning in their complexity, completeness, and grace. The '78 Brane-Cantenac was a revelation and the '66 Ducru was magnificent. I will shove my '80s and '90s Bordeaux deeper into the cellar in expectation of great things to come.