Cohen residence - Irvine, CA
Tasted Friday, April 16, 2010 by Paul Lin with 694 views
Unconvinced of the appeal of Champagne, Matt Cohen brought together a group of us for what he dubbed a "Champagne wine death match," which included a line up of mostly grower Champagnes with some ringers thrown in to keep us honest. Not surprisingly, the non-Champagnes were pretty easy to identify. Accompanying this death match was a slew of really good food and conversation, which helped to keep the death match to the wines and not to the personalities present.
Notes are presented in the order tasted. Mostly Champagne tasted with the exception of a few ringers. And with the exception of the Pouillon, I was able to guess all the non-Champagnes.
The wines of the evening for me were the Paul Dethune BdN and the Forest-Marie Cuvee St. Crespin -- both tied at 91-92 points.
NV Forest-Marie Champagne Blanc de Blancs 89 Points
France, Champagne
Rich and slightly oxidative in character with notes of golden apples, fennel, crushed shells, and chalk. Soft on the palate with a fine acidity.
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NV Blason de Bourgogne Crémant de Bourgogne Cuvée Brut 86 Points
France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
Notes of white table grapes, nectarines, and plum skin. Fine texture on the palate but a little one-dimensional. Identified as not Champagne.
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NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne 86 Points
France, Champagne
A little soapy at first, but with some air green apple, Fuji apple, and dried mushroom notes emerged. Distinctive, with an herbal edge, but slightly bitter on the finish. 86-87 points.
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NV Majolini Franciacorta Brut 84 Points
Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
Notes of honey, semolina flour, sugar cane, and minerals. Nice but uncomplicated. Identified as not Champagne.
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NV Guy Larmandier Champagne Premier Cru Brut Vertus 90 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
This was a very nice wine. Elegant and subtle notes of Asian pears, white flowers, flint, ocean spray, and crushed minerals.
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NV Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Brut 83 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
I was kind of bummed out by this wine as I generally like the producer. Funky and aggressive notes of straw, wild game, and seltzer water.
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NV Paul Dethune Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut 91 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
This was a very pretty and floral Champagne with distinctive notes of lavender, violets, plum skin, some red berries, and a touch of pie crust. Unique and delicious. 91-92 points.
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NV Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Crémant du Jura Brut 82 Points
France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
Probably not the best wine to enter into a blind tasting, for it did not show well at all. Dumb nose with wheat accents. Noticeable gaps on the palate. Ultimately quite uninteresting. Identified as not Champagne.
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NV Roger Pouillon et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé 80 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Initially guessed as not Champagne. Indeed, this is an embarrassment to the region. Clouded in the oak with notes of sour red fruits. Chunky and gamey on the palate.
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2002 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Fiacre 90 Points
France, Champagne
Classic Champagne with toasty and yeasty notes of bread dough, green apples, and candied lemon peel. Initially a bit short on the finish, but a second taste much later in the evening revealed that this wine just needed some air. Elegant and finely textured.
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2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut Flawed
France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant
Curious synthetic/chemical nose. Unpleasant on the palate.
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NV Forest-Marie Champagne Cuvée St. Crespin 91 Points
France, Champagne
This wine was remarkable for its concentration and depth. Rich notes of red and yellow apples, candied ginger, and mixed nuts. Zesty acidity and a very long finish. 91-92 points.
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