Pegau Vertical

Morton's Steakhouse, Washington DC
Tasted Friday, May 1, 2009 by Faryan with 694 views

Introduction

First of all, verticals are a fantastic way to peek into the evolution, technique and practice that a vineyard undergoes in forging its identity (the marriage of expression of terroir with the pursuit of mastering viticultural and processing technique). Sequential verticals don’t always show well throughout, as many wines go through evolutionary ups and downs. Suffice it to say, it give valueable insight into understanding the curve of a wine’s evolution.

More specifically, it is a great exercise in a varietal or region. I think that one can classify Chateauneufs into three categories: old backward ausetere wines, traditional wines and modern styles. I believe Pegau sits somewhere in the middle, vintage dependant. They are imminently approachable and enjoyable with ripe fruit profiles of cassis and kirsch but still ageable with an upside for secondary and tertiary profiles. Young Pegaus can be a treat but I find them optimal as their fruit profiles add density and a liqueur quality (98, 99 a bit, 04 was on the way). Overall, I love the wines for their old world noses (often notes of white pepper, salted prosciutto fat, feral substance/brett) and beautifully textured palates. With that I’ll give you my informal notes, as I didn’t scribe anything

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Flight 2 (9 Notes)

  • 1995 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Just the most intriguing nose of the night. Heavily salted air cured ham, seaweed/kelp, band-aid, leathery iodine. The mouth was far contrasted and evolved heavily through the night. I believe this bottle was popped and poured, but it may have undergone a light audouze. As the night went on, it picked up weight and a lot of the funk on the nose was married with some beautiful fruit. I think you could hold this for a few more years but it drinks well now.

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  • 1998 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    My WOTN and perhaps the consensus for the group. A heavy nose of feral barnyard coupled with deep aromas of cassis, garrigue and kirsch liqeur. The palate was the most polished of the night (with 04 nipping at its heels). Simply brilliant, round kirsch liqueur with a seamless and long finish. I couldn’t help but hold onto as much of it as I could throughout the night. Fantastic stuff.

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  • 1999 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    An enigmatic wine. It developed throughout much of the night but showed a little primary on the nose and a tad candied on the palate at first. Needless to say, it developed weight with time. This wine was perhaps the most delicate out of the entire tasting. The garrigue notes on the 99 were different from the 98 in that they were less rounded. I think they will show nicely in several years. There was a more leathery element to it as well, if I recall correctly. The palate was a bit licorice driven and evolved into rounded kirsch. A very nice Pegau.

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  • 2000 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    A more primal Pegau, hinting at the elements of the 95’s bacon on the nose, but far more submerged under an ocean of bright kirsch and garrigue. The wine perhaps didn’t standout in the tasting, but I think this is because it was a bit more conservative in its leanings. Wines that are very directional often wow in big tastings, because they stand out in what they excel. The 00 is a very middle-road Pegau with harmonious elements. A good representation of what it’s about.

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  • 2001 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Somewhat comparable to the 00, but different in its nose. A bit more leather and spice driven instead of bacon and garrigue. It is a red fruit Pegau, at least in this stage of its evolution. The balance isn’t quite as harmonious as the 00, but the fruit is more pure and linear, if that is comprehensible enough

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  • 2003 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 90 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The controversial wine of the evening. This bottle was audouzed then splash decanted several hours prior, if I’m not mistaken. For me, it teetered on the knife’s edge between brilliant and disasterous. It was by far the most primal and tasted blind, I wouldn’t peg it as Pegau out of the lineup. High-pitched, almost punchy nose of deep cassis, and stewed plum. The wine had a hollowness that was accompanied by a haunting permanence to its finish. It was simply a very mercurial wine to taste. I’d imagine that upon release, it really overwhelmed the palate, perhaps billing up to its lofty score, however I don’t think that it is a valid representation of the chateau and I question whether the wine can remain harmonious through extended aging. If it does, it will most likely be the most brilliant of the lot, simply because it is the most endowed. I have my doubts though.

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  • 2004 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    My second favorite. It was the most poised of the young wines, showing a beautifully evolved palate that was rounded and simply lovely. The texture of this wine is the best out of its peers (save the 98). This is the Pegau I will seek to purchase for cellaring. I believe it will turn into something very nice, perhaps special.

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  • 2005 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    It was a bit reserved and delicate. Reticent towards aromas that shut down with vigorous swirling. The bottle was popped and sat open for two hours before pouring. It has nice mouthfeel and finish, and should evolve and show its breed in several years. Reserved judgment.

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  • 2006 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    rimal but elegant. It held a nice balance of youthful exuberance but pedigree and direction. This is a wine that drinks well young and should continue to for several years. A brighter expression of fruit without secondary nuances. If this is how you like your CDP, I suggest drinking these on the younger side.

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