Boutique California Wine with Bacchus Wine Society

Paul Phelps got a bunch of limited production (<1000 cases) California wines that are essentially impossible to get in this country brought over for this tasting and led a great tasting full of back-story, anecdotes and technical information, and above all, some great wines. My experience with higher-end Californian reds had up to this point pretty much consisted of a single bottle of 1997 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour, so this was a huge expansion for me. Pinots showed the best, especially at the price point, but the Pahlmeyer really showed (as if there was ANY doubt left) the ability of California to make great, balanced wines, even with the big alcohol that is the modern style, that show amazing ageing prospects. At 5 years it was a total baby and reeked of potential. Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend is one of the most interesting and prettiest wines I've tried in a long time. Alcohol was a bit out of control in a few of the wines, but overall I was incredibly impressed, as indicated by 5 of the 8 wines getting 90+ point scores.

The Novy just didn't seem right - initial thoughts that it was corked were essentially dismissed after tasting three separate bottles, some suggestion of reduction (though if it was then it was irreversibly tainted - no amount of oxygen made this better). Possible bottle shock, though it's been 5 weeks since they were brought over. Who knows, but it was a shame.

Papillon was incredibly underwhelming - another shame as I'd been looking forward to it!

All in all, a fantastic night with great people and great wine.

• 2006 MacPhail Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Quite pure clean fruit, a slightly candied strawberry laces nose, lots of heat on the palate and you can taste the alcohol, but this dies down over ap eriod of hours and beautiful vibrant fruit comes through. Needs a little time to resolve. 14.7% alc, 11 months in 100% French oak. 250 cases made. ~ $45

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• 2007 Walter Hansel Winery Pinot Noir The South Slope Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Excellent sweet fruit and a little funk on the nose, quite a lot of exotic wood. Medium acid, very smooth, soft fine tannins, alcohol well-handled, slightly bitter finish (in a good way). With time, the nose becomes more smoky and a bright red fruit comes through. Wonderful stuff. Give it a few years. 14.3% alc., 18 months in 60% new French oak, 343 cases made, ~$40.

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• 2006 mica Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This smells exactly like ribena or purple skittles, plus a little nutmeg or allspice or something I can't quite put my finger on. Very muscular, incredibly chewy, big tannins, perhaps a little over-extracted, but a lot of fun. Big boy, alcohol rather well handled though, should hopefully resolve with time - this tasting note taken after 5 hours in decanter, after 8 hours it was significantly better. 14.5% alc., 22 months in 100% French oak, 617 cases made, ~ $50.

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• 2006 Orin Swift Papillon 87 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Had this after the Buccella mica so may have suffered from my own palate fatigue. This was a lot calmer, smoky, creamy nose, palate too alcoholic. It's not that the alcohol is tearing you apart, it's that the fruit and structure isn't there to match it. Finishes a little short. Tasted from two bottles, all very similar. Resounding success with other people on this website so maybe I'm missing something. I'd give this another shot but I wouldn't pay for the opportunity. 15.1% alc, 10 months in 30% new French oak, 500 cases made.

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• 2005 Novy Family Wines Syrah Susan's Hill Vineyard Flawed

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  This simply wasn't showing much. Nose of smoked meat but little else, tasted like a poor modern style Rhone. Bottle shock? 14.5% alc, 11 months in 30% new French oak, 219 cases made.

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• 2006 Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Damn, this is good. Nose is big but smooth, pure focused fruit and menthol but also very floral, which lifts it above being a bruiser. Great medium acidity, medium tannin on the palate, still very floral, could do with some more time but great stuff. Alcohol isn't bothering me, but maybe I'm used to it at this stage in the tasting. Fully deserves the tag "outstanding". 14.7% alc, 19 months in 100% American oak, 875 cases made.

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• 2005 Caldwell Proprietary Red 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Coombsville

  Rich blackcurrant, has some elements of excellent teenage Bordeaux on steroids. The complexity in this is excellent, very fruit-forward at the start but other dark, rich elements like heady spices and mocha come out with time. Alcohol well controlled. That said, for the price there's no way. 14.5% alc, 18 months in French oak, 476 cases made, ~$100.

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• 2005 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  WOTN for me despite great showings from the Pinots (though the Walter Hansel gets WOTN if we're talking about QPR). Good slug of blackcurrant on the nose but surprisingly measured with an amazing flinty minerality and smoke. On the palate this is a big boy, pretty thick tannins but I am surprised by the balance on this wine. That said...this has enormous reserves of fruit and structure, but the alcohol is high at the moment. The bottle says 15.2% but I seem to remember that it's actually 15.6%...could be wrong though. Anyway, it's high, and it's too high at the moment, this neeeeeds time. I wouldn't touch it for another 5 years at least given how it's showing at the moment, but should hopefully age beautifully. For the price, I'd never buy it, but it's a great wine. 15.2% alc, 18 months in 80% new French oak, approx. 600 cases made, $100-150. 93+ points.

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