Goedhuis Burgundy Growers Walkaround Tasting

Goedhuis arranged for over two dozen of the growers it represents to come and present examples of their wines. The reds were mainly mini-verticals of recent vintages, the whites tended to be a range of climats from the last couple of years. After the first half hour, it's a bit of a scrum, and I don't think that swirl and spit is the way to drink these wines (or any others, really). But who would pass up the opportunity to try a clutch of vintages of Hudelot-Noellat RSV, Ponsot CdlR or Lambrays?

• 2008 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Very pretty, lots of sap, not as oaky as I'd been expecting

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• 2006 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  More substantial than the 08 - strong, tannic, lots of grip

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• 2002 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Very spicy, fresh, good grip

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• 1996 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Aromatic, sweaty, strong, fine

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• 2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Sweet and sappy, with a strawberry pastille quality, sumptuous - fantastic

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• 2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Grippy and closed - tough going today, but no reason to doubt it will come round

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• 2004 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Even nastier than last time - raw and green. Quite vile

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• 2002 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Tight and fine, approachable but really needs longer - still tannic

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• 2000 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  Back to sweetness and sap, easy, lovely

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• 2007 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Soft, red-fruited, very charming

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• 2004 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Fizzy, earthy, fresh and spicy - very good

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• 2002 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Earthy, a bit pongy in fact, but lots of bright red fruit too - seemed pretty ready

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• 2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Briary, wild, grippy, lots of dimension

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• 2000 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Smoother and more resolved than the 01, ready to go right now

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• 1999 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Still a bit reticent, but unlike last time when I wasn't convinced, this time it was clearly a profound wine, not big though

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• 1998 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Earthy, perhaps even a touch of TCA and tannic

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• 1997 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Raw and stalky - surprising

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• 2002 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Lifted, floral, light - lovely, but not what I was expecting given the exoticism of the Clos Vougeot in this vintage

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• 1999 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Ripe and exotic, smoky, powerful - really grand burgundy

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• 1995 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Smells divine, ineffably complex fragrance, a citrus twist, the tannin not sticking out like it usually does in 1995 - an absolute stunner

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• 1989 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Earth, spice, still fresh and lively - lovely wine

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• 2007 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Pretty, soft, bursting with strawberry fruit - this was really gorgeous

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• 1999 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  My memory of a bottle earlier in the year was of a tough old thing, but this seemed to be nearly there - substantial and richly fruited

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• 2007 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Oaky, sweet, tropical - ho hum...

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• 2007 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Much more concentrated than the Caillerets, real power and verve, very lovely

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• 2007 Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru

  A bit soupy to start with, but it better on the palate - bags of fruit

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• 2007 Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru

  More oomph than the Sentier du Clou

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• 2007 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Encégnières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  A big step up from the St Aubins - real power - this was gorgeous

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• 2007 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Not sure about this - masses of oak, but the fruit does come through

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• 2008 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Ripe, focused, deep fruit - brilliant!

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• 2007 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Just like the 08 - brilliant

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• 2006 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Mature tasting and soapy - not a patch on the two younger vintages

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• 2008 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Corvées des Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Very ripe and sweet - too much

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• 2007 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Rue Rousseau

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Energetic entry, much better than the Corvees - more acid to balance the ripeness

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• 2008 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Earthy edge, sweet fruit

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• 2007 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  More size than the 08, good balance, very rich

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• 2006 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Softer than the 07, brilliantly fruity

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• 2005 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  From magnum: oak comes through, ripe, concentrated, vibrant

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