2004 Brunello Tasting

• 2008 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Anas-Cëtta

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Slight raspy edge to the nose, tonic water. Neat mineral and slight oxidative-like elements. Crisp in texture, but soft on acid. Citrus bitters. Nice overall as those elements appeal to me.

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• 2004 Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino Flawed

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Slightly fungal nose. And also some VA. (Corked? - Revisiting says yes.) Underneath is a great texture w/ some grip. Light structure, but balance. No fruit or aromatics. Structure and texture interests me enough to retry sometime.

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• 2004 La Palazzetta (Flavio Fanti) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Dark fruit nose with some mocha. Soft fruit, slightly yeasty. A bit of grip, but also irritating more than pulling. Narrow in profile. Airs very nicely, gaining some depth though quite bounded. Good but not compelling.

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• 2004 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Light nose with some currants and mushroom. Broad on the palate with a nice thoroughness. Soft texture, very fruit-driven. Not bad, not special either.

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• 2004 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Mocha and tea leaves on the nose. Some orange peel and licorice. Good textures and spicing. Missing a middle though nice structures on the edges. Holds a good spot and nicely correct even if not deep enough.

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• 2004 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Not much nose. Some grillé. Way soft and fruit-driven. Juicy. Definitely enjoyable to drink. Develops more toward Brunello with air, but still ...

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• 2004 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Nice nose with orange peel and clove. Bombastic in structure though very soft on the finish. Modern in stylings - in a good way.

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• 2004 Pinino Brunello di Montalcino Clan Destino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Thoroughly modern wine nose. Maybe some orange peel and mint in there. Way modern in fruit and oak (French) profile. Even within that - and that is not my style at all - there is a nice balance, grip and I am even finding Brunello character lurking. Enjoyed it on its own terms.

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• 2004 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Lapsang souchang tea nose, but very reticent. Very bright and jazzy across a strong structure. Burnt orange peel. Surprisingly soft finish. A lot more correctness than I am describing and quite good.

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• 2004 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  The regular, amped correctly. Really beautiful textures that are layered very dynamically is what separates this from the regular. Very good.

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I was greatly surprised by how open and accessible all these wines were. Not all at like my memories of '97 and '99 tastes at similar stages.