Tom's Last Night: A Chateauneuf-du-Pape Farewell

A proper send off for one of Chateauneuf-du-Pape's greatest fans...Tom, you'll be greatly missed. I could always use your help syphoning some more of this sick juice. Drop in whenever--you're always welcome!

• 2007 Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape l'Immortelle

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  What I'd give to have all 1500 bottles of this. Simply put, one of THE most compelling wines being produced in Chateauneuf-du-Pape today, with coincidentally the most perplexingly awful labeling. Perhaps it's the manifestation of a concept we could all take more to heart: The only thing that really matters is what's in the bottle. At 98 Euro per, it better be f-ing GALACTIC. Folks, it is. That's all I'm going to say on the subject. Must be tasted to be believed. 1/3 Grenache, 1/3 Mourvedre, 1/3 Syrah. Umm, 3/3 INSANITY! If opening now, this needs about three days in an open bottle, or about 3 hours in a decanter. Surprisingly for this wine, it already possesses serious chuggability, but I simply can't afford to do that.

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• 2003 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Quite advanced, almost cooked in its expression, but the bottle and cork didn't indicate any damage. A transparent look at the blazing 2003 vintage, ala Chateauneuf-du-Pape. If this wine is any indication, the more 'profound' attempts at extracting profundity in this vintage (at least WRT critically acclaimed wines) may soon be reaching their tolerable life span. This was at times painful to drink, at others more reminiscent of ruby Port than CdP. A certain degree of funk never vacated the glass, a prominent nose of mulled plums and licorice never relented, and the tannin never really framed the wine; it just snuck up on us in the finish, as did the unintegrated alcohol. A peculiar wine from a "celebrated" vintner, but one I happen to view very skeptically. The other two bottles in the cellar...an experiment they will be, to see how 2003 develops over the next four to five years. My guess: Very Poorly for this wine.

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• 2006 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  A mouthful of profound intensity and grip. This is why I love 2006. It has it all: acid, depth, fat fruit and serious length. This was popped and poured, which didn't do this wine any favors really. But what we could taste held every indication for future greatness. Having tasted Les Serres on its own, I know now what that component gives to this wine...the mule kick. Wow. I'm not talking about alcohol here; I'm talking about how this juice sits on the palate. It just smothers everything with a tingling melange of black fruits, licorice and bitter chocolate. Already seamless, this integrated package of radicality just begs to be contemplated AND pounded down. Speechless finish. Mmmmm.

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Although I wish we could have given the Mon Aieul time in a decanter, the pop-and-pour coincided with my insistence that Tom pick anything in the cellar--ANYTHING--that he wanted to drink. He picked Usseglio. I can't argue with his decision; the brothers are doing some aaaaaamazing stuff in CdP. Thierry, by the way, is an exceptionally generous man, so perhaps that clouds my feelings about their wine. But there's no getting around the fact that these are spectacular expressions of CdP intensity and sultriness. Anyway, I digress--Tom, great pick. Stop in anytime for another "Point and Drink" evening. You're already on a roll.