BR 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur Tasting

London
Tasted Tuesday, July 6, 2010 by Khamen with 1,779 views

Introduction

A chance to get to grips with the vintage dubbed "the greatest of all time" (again). Nearly 40 producers were on hand to pour both their2009 barrel samples and the 2006 as a comparison.

Flight 1 (50 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Angélus

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Huge merlot nose, massive body, extreme concentration backed by chewy tannins. Probably the most backwards and disjointed wine of the night but impressive long term potential. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château Angélus

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Lovel complexity OTN, great concentration to the smooth velvet palate. Finishes long. Excellent potential. 91+

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  • 2009 Château d'Armailhac

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very floral nose impresses, forest fruit attack, very dense and polished. A little new worldy but a great Armailhac. Will need time. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château d'Armailhac 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Black fruit nose of rather sweet fruit. Tannins a little stalky.

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  • 2009 Château Clerc Milon

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Deep polished casis nose, pure black fruit, dense, good finnesse for all the power. Long. 92-95

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  • 2006 Château Clerc Milon 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Lovely graphite, earth and mulch nose. Expressive dark fruits, firm tannins. 89+

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  • 2009 Château Batailley

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Moderate nose, sweet back fruit, lots of spicy oak. New worldish 88-90

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  • 2006 Château Batailley 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Nice perfumed nose, palate a little mean, moderate concentration

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  • 2009 Château Beau-Site

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Stunning deep colour, great concentration marries elegegance, power and a mellow round palate. Wondeful balance for the size. A sand-out from the tasting. 93-95

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  • 2009 Château Pavie Macquin

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    A real monster, tipping the scales at nearly 15%! Massive concentration, almost port-like consistency. Huge in every respect but all in balance and maintains surprising freshness for the bulk. Real decadence for the long term. 94-96

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  • 2006 Château Beau-Site 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Intriguing gun-flint mineral nose. Medium bodied and concetration bu elegance, style and balance in spades. Lovely 92+

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  • 2006 Château Beychevelle 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Hot stone sauna, graphite and chocolate nose, a littlle chewy with firm tannins. Will the fruit last to let it fully mellow? 88+

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  • 2009 Château Berliquet

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Savoury and rich, round terroir-driven palate. Long. Good value for the vintage, 90-92

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  • 2009 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Smokey and structured with a big merlot presence. Is this really a Pessac? 86-88

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  • 2006 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Soft oaky nose with traces of graphite. Boisterous tannins dominate. Not sure fruit will go the ditance vs those tannins. 84

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  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Very terroir-driven, good profile of sweet violets and gravel. Long term, very big for a Dom de Chev. Very classy 92-94

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  • 2006 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Elegant mineral nose, good ripeness. Balanced and finnessed. 90+

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  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Complex, waxy nose of lychee, green apples and peach. Big alcohol and concentration balanced by flirty acidity. Very impressive. 94-96

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  • 2009 Château La Conseillante

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    The Creature from the Black Lagoon! In ballet shoes!! A huge 14.2% monster that amazes by somehow keeping it's balance and even playing the elegance card with some aplomb. Don't even look at this for 20 years+ but will be a real stunner. One day...95-97

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  • 2006 Château La Conseillante 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    A whole degree of alcohol less than it's 2009 sibling (13.2% plays 14.2%). Nice balance, mineral-driven roundness and some good complexity. Good concentration for the vintage. According to the producer from 2015 or so. 91+

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  • 2006 Château La Clémence 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Lovely soft Pomerol merlot nose. Spicy oak wrapped around warm summer plum fruit. Classic right bank flavours.

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  • 2009 Château Giscours

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    For the long haul. Very pure Margaux perfumed nose of dark lifted fruit. Complex palate. Great potential 92-94

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  • 2009 Château La Clémence

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    85% merlot, 15% cab franc. Nice round perfumed nose. Deep, DEEP robe, huge build and power. A little lacking in balace? May come around. 89-91

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  • 2006 Château Giscours 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    A beautiful haunting nose. Floral, bacon fat(!). Fine tannins with a good concentration of licorice fruit through the mid. A doozy!

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  • 2006 Château du Tertre 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    "Give me pencil!" - Toby. Elegant lilac-and-grpahite nose. Parma violets. balanced and fresh. Loved this one. 92+

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  • 2006 Château Gruaud Larose 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Nicely balalnced and rather forward. Not massive concentration but nice balance and real finnesse. 89+

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bages Libéral

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    High-toned, andmaybe a little over polished. Firm and slightly lacking balance. Needs plenty of time. 86-88

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  • 2009 Château du Tertre

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    The greatest du Tertre ever made? Wonderful brambly concentration of dark fruit, sublime balance. Wonderful potential and that rarest of things in 2009 - QPR! 94-96

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  • 2006 Château Haut-Bages Libéral 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Nice briary fruit nose, very polished and "correct" winemaking. Tanins firm, perhaps lacking a little soul and vineyard definition?

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  • 2009 Château Gruaud Larose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Bright, lively nose. Chewy, meaty palate. Great concentration and spiciness. One for the long term. 90-92

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  • 2009 Château Ferrière

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    juicy berry and flower nose. Real depth and complexity but light on its feet for the size (13.6%). Stood out on the night. 94-96

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bailly

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Fresh, minty spicy-oak nose. Formidable concentration gives a slightyl new world profile. Great balance and focus though. Poised. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château Haut-Bailly 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Really very good. Spicy oak nose, restrained but pure cassis fruit. A little meaty on the mid. Balanced and elegant.

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  • 2006 Château Ferrière 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Beautiful nose of perfume-sprinkled graphite. Good sweet ripeness for the vintage, decent complexity. 12.9%. Good QPR. 91+

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  • 2009 Château Lagrange (St. Julien)

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    A big 13.7% ("warming", said Toby with no little irony). Sweet cassis fruit but lacking the early complexity of a wine like the Leoville Barton. Potentially approachable relatively quickly? 89-91

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  • 2009 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Poured by Anthony Barton. Massive fruit hit OTN, awe-inspring depth and complexity. The most complete young wine of the tasting with decades ahead of it. Absolute class, WOTN. 96-98+

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  • 2006 Château d'Issan 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Wonder nose! A restrained and elegant Margaux, great success for the vintage

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  • 2009 Château d'Issan

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Lovely floral Margaux nose, very dense and rich. Big at 13.9% but balanced with top acidity. Should age beautifully. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château Léoville Poyferré 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Rather edgy mineral nose, tannins a touch stalky. Needs to put on some weight on bottle to balance out.

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  • 2009 Château Petit Village

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Great merlot nose, given a spine by c.25% cab in the blend. Very fine tannins. Pure, long and focussed. Punches above its weight in 2009. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A classically proportioned beauty. Earthy nose leads into a balanced and approachable pessac.

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  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Very deep colour. Intense Pessac violet palate, round and generous but backed by some titanic tannins. For the long term, but potentially superb. 92-94

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  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Overt nose, blosom, peach, big waxy semillon presence. Velvet complexity. Rounder than the Dom de Chevalier BLanc but maybe just the tniest bit less interesting? Still a real beauty though. 92-94

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  • 2006 Château Talbot 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Earthy, mulchy nose. Leafy blackcurrant and good freshness but maybe a bit rustic for a classed growth?

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  • 2009 Château Talbot

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Deep colour, very ripe menthol nose. Very focussed sweet cabernet fruit. A top effort from Talbot. 91-93

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  • 2009 Château Phélan Ségur

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    A touch over-extracted? A little raisined? Amarone style! Gave the impression of being over-worked in the winery. 82-84

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  • 2006 Château Léoville Barton 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    A textbook St Julien, refined and balanced. From 2015? 91+

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  • 2009 Château Léoville Poyferré

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    V. rich, good complexity, intense cassis/licorice palate. Very complete with a promising future. 92-95

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  • 2006 Château Phélan Ségur 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Classic cabernet nose follows through onto the medium-bodied palate. Suspicions tannins may be a little green? Needs time

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  • 2006 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    P-B didn't pour their 2009, (which was a bit odd as it was a 2009 EP tasting!) but this 2006 stood out among the others (2006s that is). Skillful, deep claret with sweet silky black fruit and devlopng great complexity already. WIll be great in the mid term. 93+

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

Dinner at The Square after the tasting - anything but Bordeaux!

  • 2002 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Vibrant gold. Very rich, good complexity in here. Nutty, buttery peach and apricot. Judicious use of oak. Stil very young but approachable. 91+

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  • 1995 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambertin 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    Screamingly good burgundy. Concentrated, complex savoury pinot character with a real depth of character and complexity. Drinking like a champ but years ahead of it. 95+

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  • 1946 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu 95 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Amazingly fresh. Great complexity, almost like the hypothetical love-child of a Chabls Grand Cru and a top white from Pessac Leognan. Mouth-watering acidity helps focus the carousel of complexity. Supremely intense, balanced and long. A special wine.

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  • 1999 István Szepsy Tokaji Essencia 93 Points

    Hungary, Tokaji

    Weighing in at a huge 2.8% this motor-oil thick golden fluid packs incredible sweetness. Very young, this is going to need a couple of decades to broaden out and mellow at the moment it's extremely impressive, endlessly deep and quite possiblythe sweetest thing you will ever drink, but it needs to work on the charm. Doubtless it will get there before the world ceases to turn. Just maybe not by much...93++++

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Closing

Overall the 2009s laid down a huge footprint. As promised, tannins, acidity, concentration and, above all, alcohols were off the chart. Generally the producers believe the 2009 to be approachable fairly early (in 6-7 years) but to last for decades. They are generally enthusiastic towards the 2009 vintage (as you would expect), but more than one was heard to appreciate recognition of the balance and elegance of the under-rated 2006s with genuine relief. One point of note is how well the majority of the 2006s are drinking now. No doubt they will soon be sound asleep but right now they're zippy, elegant, balanced and full of life. A great tasting.

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