Bryan's Dinner Party Offline

The Ledbury, London
Tasted Wednesday, July 7, 2010 by SimonG with 889 views

Introduction

As others have commented the perfect setting for enjoying fine wine. It felt a little rushed at the start with the fizz flight only just being started when the first course and the Chablis arrived, but after that it settled to a very comfortable pace allowing us to enjoy some lovely bottles in their proper context - at the table with fine food and knowledgable fellow diners.

Flight 1 - Aperitif (2 Notes)

A fishy puree on a crispy tuille base

Flight 2 - Paupiette of Turbot with almond praline and crab (2 Notes)

Stunning nutty texture and flavour here - very much like a slightly sweet satay.

  • 1999 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Deepish gold but slightly lighter than the 96 Rav Clos alongside. Leaner nose, though this is starting to open up just as I've finished my glass. Mineral, slightly saline. Rounder, more generous on the attack, fruit properly ripe. Shows a more classic mineral middle and finish with decent grip. Lacks a little weight and intensity of minerality cf previous bottles, possibly because not decanter or given the chance to open up as previous bottles have. Good though. ***1/2

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1996 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Slightly fuller yellow than the Fevre 99 Preuses. A slightly honied nose with richness and depth behind it. More body here. Rich, mineral and saline palate. Good grip and length. Proper. Just getting there. First time a Raveneau had really wowed me. ****

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 3 - Fillet of sea trout with hispi cabbage and smoked bone marrow (2 Notes)

  • 1991 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Lovely maturing, farmyardy nose, a touch of sousbois starting to develop. Fresh, good grip, a touch of tannin. Mineral. Good depth of fruit. Quite long. Very nice indeed. Proper. Shows far more depth and poise than a sample of Jadot's 88 Ruchottes from the other table. Finer too. Would have benefited from being served in a glass with a
    wider bowl ****1/2

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1991 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Corked and not served.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 4 - Breast of guinea fowl with aubergine glazed in black sugar and garlic (2 Notes)

  • 1983 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Full ruby to deep garnet. Slightly bloody, meaty, sweet-fruited nose. Lots of fine sediment. Sweet old syrah fruit, crying out for game. Old fashioned, uncompromising, slightly rustic and very lovely. ****

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1990 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Almost purple on the rim, this looks far younger than it should. Quite a subdued nose. Very very young. Quite a tannic grip. Needs
    years on this showing ***(*?)

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 5 - Suckling pig with grilled onions, girolles and truffle (2 Notes)

  • 1978 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Deep garnet to ruby. Slightly cheesey, refreshing green edge. Very complete and tasty. Refreshing, proper wine. ****1/2

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1989 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Quite a full purple-ruby. Savoury character, dry tannins, good structure, needs time. The 78 alongside is a clear favourite for current enjoyment. ***(*)+?

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 6 - Sauternes custard with apricot, passion fruit and dried orange (2 Notes)

Couldn't have had a better match for the 89 Climens

  • 1989 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Riper nose, slightly volatile. Gorgeous palate though. Sweet, ripe, long, luscious, lovely. Stunning match with the pudding. ****1/2

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1996 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Quite a full colour, barley sugar nose, just a little heavy and simplistic on the nose really. Bette ron the palate. More linear, sweet, decent line. Good ***1/2

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 7 - Quick Sips from the other table's wines (9 Notes)

  • 1990 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

    France, Champagne

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Full, rich, smooth, rounded, long and with great depth. So complete. ***** impression.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1990 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Seemed very pleasant but a couple of levels below the Krug. Clearly hard to evaluate on one tiny sip but ***1/2 impression with room for upside.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1997 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Lighter nose than the 99 but richer bodied on the palate. Good. **** Impression

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Stunning toasted hazelnut nose, just stunning. Palate can't quite match, probably a bit too warm by now but seems to lack a bit pf precision and line. Keep coming back to that nose though. **** impression.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1988 Louis Jadot Ruchottes-Chambertin

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Very 88. Not as fine or as silky as the 91 Suchots. Decent but no more. *** impression

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1982 Château Montrose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Very round and full, not a pruney 82. long, full, slightly lactic. Impressive rather than necessarily lovely. Very good indeed. ****1/2 impression

    Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

  • 1990 Château Montrose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Seemed decent, quite a nice spicy nose but a bit under-powered and lacking cf the 82. ***1/2 to **** impression.

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1981 Château Rieussec

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Lovely ****1/2 impression

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

  • 1996 Château Doisy-Daëne

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Quick sniff and taste from the other table: Decent. ***1/2 impression

    Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Closing

My WOTN from Table 1 was a close run thing but I think the 91 Suchots very closely followed by the 78 Leoville B. But then there was the Raveneau, and the Rose de Jeanne, and the Bolly and the 83 Sorrel. Invidious really to pick one out. Suffice to say it was a very very good selection of wines served in a hard to better setting. Bravo Bryan. I'll hope for another one.

×
×