Cellar Raid at ES

Alex called for this cellar-raid over a rainy Saturday afternoon. Nice small group this time, just Alex, Kelvin and I, before Robert Rees joined us to make a foursome. We da-paoed some very good chicken rice, roast pork, char siew and pork ribs (Kay Lee Roast Meat Joint scores again!) Great wines, tons of interesting stuff, and a nice balance of different varietals from around the world. What an enjoyable afternoon.

• 1991 Bodegas El Coto Rioja Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

  This was a real charmer. Rather modern, so that I could not even spot it as a Tempranillo, let alone a Rioja, but very pleasant nonetheless. Nose showed plnety of fruit, with cassis, cherries, plums and blueberries, spiced by licorice, earth and woody hints - rich, ripe, yet clean scents. After that, the Palate was unexpectedly clean and lacy, with lots of plum and blueberries as suggested on the nose, sweet almost preserve, compote like in flavour, but absolutely clean, clear, pure, almost lifted in its ligthness. Mid-palate had just a hint of tar at the edges, with lovely acidity running through the spine of the wine, from the fresh attack into a lacy finish. The tail-end showed just a touch of dried fruit and a little rubbery, crayola hint, along with coconutty American oak nuances. Just lacking a bit of length, but this was very balanced and satisfying. Great with stewed toufu in herb sauce.

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• 1994 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Les Hauts de Smith 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Second wine, weak vintage, but this was surprisingly drinkable. Lovely nose showed lush cassis, earth and tobacco with pats of damp earth, along with floating green capsicum scents. On the palate, not great density, as one would expect from a second wine from 1994, but lots of charm and elegance. Again, smoky tobacco, earth, capsicums, just a tad green at the egdes. Certainly not a California Cab drinker's wine. Otherwise, quite a pleasure. Finish was decent, with a whiff of cigar smoke and a squeeze of fine tannins.

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• 2004 Saint Helena Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Sympa Reserve Block #1 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

  This was really excellent. Lovely nose. Rich and modern, with sweet plums and cassis galore, wrapped in a robe of French oak and seasoned with just a touch of tobacco. I thought it was just a bit on the sweet side, but it opened up nicely, taking on some meaty tones and savoury bits, gradually evolving even further into floral notes - really nice. Lots of quality on the palate on the palate too. You would not expected it from the exuberant nose, but this was actually controlled and far from sweet or confected. Instead, there were lovely dark chocolate and mocha, along with nice expressions of cassis and plums, all lifted with a surprising amount of acidity and freshness. It finishes quite well too, with a touch of spice and bittersweet dark chocolate. Nicely balanced, very structured, with firmish, almost drying but still ripe tannins and fresh acid gave great shape to the wine. Still in its adolescence, but I really could not stop drinking this one. A lovely wine, with lots of upside potential. WOTD for me.

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• 1969 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  From a 375ml. I thought this was lovely. Guessed it as an old Pauillac, but thought it was a stronger vintage, perhaps 1975. Cloudy in colour, almost a light, dusky tone. Nose was all dried roots and Chinese medicine at first - lingzhi, angelica root, tree bark - but after some time, it took on dried fruit tones, almost with preserved plums, red dates, and plenty savoury umami and soy notes. Lots of age on the nose, with just a bit of graphite scents at the edges pointing towards Pauillac. Intriguing, and palate was no slouch either. Lots of dried fruit, plums, dates, dried fig skins, dried blackcurrant fruit, all still with a fantastic fresh balance, moving into a finish full of dried fruits. There was a hint of mahogany here, a touch of stilled tea, and still some structure too. Tons of character on this wine, it probably exited its peak drinking window about a decade ago, but this was still going strong, and it really put a smile on my face.

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• 2002 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 93 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Cape Peninsula, Constantia

  Second bottle in two days, this was by far the better one. Incredible nose as usual. Mandarin orange, mango, apricot jam, white flowers, osmanthus, honey - wow. Palate had a gorgeous richness, with lots of mangoes, both dried and pureed in its character, apricot jam, yellow flowers, yet it was always clean and pure, with fresh acid lending the wine a lively and absolutely impeccable balance, almost fruit juice-like in its freshness. Finish was mid-length, with plenty of orange peel flavours and that same fresh snappiness that permeated the wine all the way to its very end. Lovely.

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