Hermitage dinner - Jaboulet La Chapelle and JL Chave

A great opportunity to compare the two greats of Hermitage accompanied by a classic Ledbury dinner. The bottles were shared between two tables of six. The differences in style are marked. Chave is edgy, sharp, with a whiff of the farm, fresh and exciting. La Chapelle is smoother and heavier, often with a milky chocolate note. I much preferred the Chave - all six superb and very close in quality. The 1990 La Chapelle is wonderful, but several others came up short.

• 1993 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Thick oily, lanolin-like, almost sweet - luxuriously textured - I'd like more energy

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• 1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  This too was thick, smooth, rather heavy, probably served a bit too warm, a eucalyptus note came through at the end to add a touch of intrigue

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• 1986 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 87 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Oxidative, smooth texture, a lactic tone, and lacking substance

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• 1985 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Much more tightly focused that the Chapelle, with earth, spice and smoke, and a fresh acidity - surprisingly bracing for an 85

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• 1983 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Dusty, muted - flat at first, but it grew richer in the glass, emerging as a characteristic big earthy meaty hermitage

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• 1983 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Edgy, acidic, some farmyard aromas, but lots of fresh, earthy black syrah - love the life here

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• 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Berried, black fruited, porty, with a raisin tone - lots of flavour, but lacking freshness

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• 1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Way better than the Chapelle, fresher and racier on entry, and on the palate, layered and harmonious - a beauty

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• 1988 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Lean and sharp, smoke, bacon, gloriously brothy and, at last, a PJA with a bit of bite

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• 1988 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Another edgy entry, light, savoury, earth and smoke, and searing acidity, but it works - very exciting

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• 1991 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Sweaty, burned, and a lactic tone, better on the mid-palate, where the smooth syrah came through

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• 1991 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Light, bright, fantastically lively, and breathtaking long

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• 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Ripe, bright, game, meat, an amazing amount going on here, lots of layers and energy, a real overdrive wine

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• 1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  These Chaves are amazingly like each other - this had a bit more substance perhaps, but the keynote is the smoke, the vibrance, the grip

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• 1986 Château d'Yquem 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Dark, spicy, a touch burned, but here the acrid edge gives a lift to the luscious herby palate - gorgeous

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• 1993 Château Pajzos Tokaji Esszencia

  Hungary, Tokaji

  Intense raisin and brown sugar sweetie, which just goes on and on - the thickest textured wine I've ever had - quite exciting, but a small glass is enough

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