Italian Sangiovese - Pure Sangiovese or Blend?

Extra Space Boon Keng
Tasted Saturday, September 18, 2010 by Sleepy Dave with 1,219 views

Introduction

A cellar raid about Sangiovese. By my friend William's note:
* One of the noblest grapes of central Italy capable of producing great wines such as Brunello di Montalcino. Some would say it is the vinous soul of Tuscany. To make a good Sangiovese requires as much care and attention as Pinot Noir. It is a difficult grape to cultivate. However, top Sangiovese rarely fetch the lofty price of top Burgundy or Bordeaux.

* Some wine makers quietly believe that Sangiovese is too much work for too little return. Over the years, more and more winemakers have started to blend Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz (which are easier to work with). The best examples show excellent synergies (e.g. Tignanello), the worst show how international varietals hide shortcomings and kill varietal character. That Chianti DOCG allows for up to 20% of international varietals makes for some shady winemaking.

Have once joined the 2004 BDM Horizontal tasting some times back and was impressed how good Sangiovese can be. But notice that in recent years, BDM has become more ripe and concentrated modern style compare to the classic which is leaner, vibrant, not too heavy while not sacrificing the intensity.

Flight 1 (13 Notes)

  • 1999 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Alcohol :13%
    A bit of floral and chalk. Sweet dark fruits nose with new oak and core of fresh acidity that is quite layer and deep. Very acidic of sour cherry that superseded with some sweet fruits and some grounded coffee bean bitterness, oak and leather with long fresh finish with touch of heat. This is quite good with its med stuffing and traditional Sangio / BDM. Buy - No.

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  • 2005 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    Alcohol : 13%
    Quite acidic nose that's stil a bit closed with touch of sour cherry, darker ripe fruits underneath with hint of new oak tones that's quite elegant. Fuller and bolder that with good sweet fruits flavor but this clearly do not lack of the nice ripe acidity to balance with the fruits and give vibrancy to the wine and this all framed by a mouth coating tannins which good spicy finish with trace of rubbery aftertaste. Long and elegant. Very good Chianti Riserva, just a tad simple. Buy - No.

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  • 2007 Umberto Cesari Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva

    Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna

    Alcohol : 13%
    Quite pungent nose that is ripe blackberry fruits, but also with core of lively acid. A food wine that is ripe, chalky mouth feel with a little bit of fishy smell in wet market that with good boldness and this is quite approachable but nothing much to offer. The finish is quite weighty though. Buy - No.

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  • 1990 Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de' Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Alcohol : 14%
    A big different with 1st 3btls that offer soft seductive nose of tobacco, very ripe blackberry and dark fruits, sweet plum and fig but not OTT with chalky mineral with good freshness. Very nice! Considerably high tannins for its ages, and in fact, most of us guess this was from 99 or 2000s! Spicy, with high acid that quite short on the finish with juicy ripe fruits aftertaste. Good, just not great.

    With time, this does evolved more from the glass and gain more weight and richness on the mid palate, elegantly texture that hide the tannins and alcohol well. Fresh, in harmony. The most drinking wine of the day. Very good, just lack a bit of depth and complexity. Buy - No.

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  • 2007 Antinori Chianti Classico Pèppoli

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    Alcohol : 13%
    Almost everyone can sense there is international variety in this wine with its peppery spicy dominant nose that is pungent, hint of blackberry and alcohol. Tight and young but not really good structure that is quite light and soft on the palate which is a bit of modernize with light finish. A simple wine. Buy - No. (10% Shiraz in the blend)

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  • 2003 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Alcohol : 13.5%
    Bold, with dark ripe fruits that's deep with chalky spice. Focus. Good ripeness that balance well with the sour cherry fruits with saddle leather that's quite opulent in sytle. Though the finish is soft and light but is drinking well Now. Buy - No.

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  • 2006 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Toscana IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Alcohol : 14.5%
    Focus nose that is quite tight that only giving away hint of spiciness and dark ripe fruits with new saddle leather. One can sense the underlying material is huge and reluctant to show. What really shine through is it's palate. Very young, fresh, great intensity and complex palate which the balance of its ripeness, dry extract, lively acidity and silky sweet tannins is immense which resulted in great delineation, gorgeously texture, good vibrancy and freshness carry on to the very long juicy finish with good complexity. Very serious wine that is sexy and sensational. Never tot I could taste it today. My WOTD. Buy - YES.

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  • 2003 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva

    Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

    Alcohol : 13%
    Straight forward with dark fruits that's quite ripe with pepper and earth. Quite round and expressive with good mid palate weight but rather straight forward juicy finish that quite light with trace of heat. A simple wine that's just can't place after the Testamatta. Buy - No.

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  • 2000 Fattoria del Cerro Manero Toscana IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Alcohol : 14.5%
    Kick on your face nose that's is overripe, caramelize fig and plum with soy sauce and sweaty smell. Very ripe too on the palate with soft structure that is no complexity and shortish finish. A player. Buy - No.

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  • 2001 Tenuta di Riseccoli Sæculum Toscana IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Alcohol : 13.5%
    40% Sangiovese, 40% CS, 20% Merlot. Focus and layer nose of ripe dark fruits with peppery spices and minera. Fresh and rich palate that is vibrant and pure, well balance, exotic, fine-grained sweet tannins that coat the mouth gently, with long fresh finish. Very nice. This is so complex and juicy. A classy juice. Buy - Yes. l

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  • 2006 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    Alcohol : 14%
    95% Sangiovese, 3% CS, 2% Merlot. On your face aromas of sour cherry, leathery and society with dark ripe fruits and alcohol that attacking my nose. The palate is clearly better and approachable with its ripe dark fruits which remain vibrant and good by its lively acidity. Just a tad simple and shortish. Buy - No.

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  • 2001 Antinori Tignanello

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Alcohol :
    Funkish spicy nose of sweet dark fruits that's very pungent. Still pretty tight with great structure. Rich and concentrated palate with very ripe fruits and underlying acidity that came after the fruits, all framed nicely by its med-high level fine-grained tannins and new oak. The finishing is lasting and lingering with leathery oak. Nice. Good complexity and delineation. This clearly need more bottle aging to really shine. Buy - No (would be a YES, but giving the price now, I just can't swallow)

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  • 2001 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento Flawed

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Alcohol :
    Sadly, this is cork. Thanks to the cling wrap, the TCA notes tone down quite a bit after soak the wine in the decanter and rinse vigorously. This is still quite palatable though, with good intensity however kind of disjointed finish.

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Closing

This was a very educational afternoon with good wines and great company!

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