Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Pale straw. Lovely fresh, salty, iodene and sea-spray nose. Similar on palate with a nice, quite rounded and slightly oatmeal spect to the attack before showing more bite and proper salty zing. A serious and more 'grown-up' wine than Manzanilla can be. A lovely aperitif with surprising depth and persistence. ****1/2
Blind. Mid garnet fading to brown at the rim. Initially quite a light, fragrant nose with gentle spice and the faintest touch of vanilla enhancing the slightly dusty red fruit. This follows through to the palate, a lovely silky texture and good acidity carries this through to a reasonably long finish. Trad Rioja surely? Not Vina Real from the bottle shape, so maybe Arana or Tondonia. Starting to show orange peel and coffee aromas. Revealed to be Imperial, the one wine I thought it wasn't but after a bit longer in the glass this has rounded out and taken on more weight, fleshing out to the profile I associate with Imperial. Really lovely and one of my favourites of the night. ****1/2
Blind. Fullest colour of the three. More fruit on the nose and a slightly fuller, more velvety texture but still seems to be reasonably trad Rioja. Didn't evolve in the glass and develop quite so markedly as the other two. A nice blend of generous fruit with more traditionally acidity-led structure. positive finish and good length. Bare ****
Blind and decanted to hide the ridiculously overweight bottle. Again, a good, full garnet colour. Similar to the Contino initially with quite fleshy dark red fruit and roasted coffee on the nose. Good acidity though and a lighter, more trad feel to this in the mouth. Over a couple of hours this develops very nicely to reveal a traditionally-styled Rioja with good acidity, tobacco, leather Nd orange peel and a touch of fresh coffee. The velvety sense to the nose has given way to a silky palate and a long finish. Gorgeous and I'd never have predicted it - I think this has a reputation for being made in a modern style but this has evolved to something nicely traditional. For 'surprise value' this edges it over the Imperial, but really there's nothing in it. Two lovely, engaging wines. ****1/2
Pale yellow. Lovely and fresh with a nice lightness although it's put on a bit of weight and lost some vivacity since I tried this last, three and a half years ago. Fresh, sweet, lovely balance - no sense of acidity or any cloying. Finishes well. Very good. ***1/2
NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 22 "Navazos"
Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Pale straw. Lovely fresh, salty, iodene and sea-spray nose. Similar on palate with a nice, quite rounded and slightly oatmeal spect to the attack before showing more bite and proper salty zing. A serious and more 'grown-up' wine than Manzanilla can be. A lovely aperitif with surprising depth and persistence. ****1/2
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