Contino

We were hosted by the extremely friendly and generous Jesus Madrazo, the Contino winemaker. After what amounted to a near three hour tour of the cellars and extensive barrel sample tasting, we re-emerged in to day light at 4pm for a lovely lunch in the winery of bean stew, followed by grilled lamb, alongside which we tasted through some bottled wines and finished with two gems generously provided by Jesus from his personal cellar.

Contino has a relatively high proportion of Graciano in what is apparently the best-rippening site for the varietal in Rioja. Relatively old vines planted in 79 and 89. In general, Graciano is late-ripening and quite difficult and shares similarities, depending on vintage, with either Cab Franc or Petit verdot. Massal selection used in the vineyards. The property sits on the inside bend of a meaner in the Ebro with a Southeast-South-Southwest aspect. The Graciano can ripen up to a month earlier than it might elsewhere in Rioja.

Numerous barrel samples tasted but without written notes:

• 2008 Garnacha barrel sample- really gorgeous. Quite the lovliest barrel sample I've tasted. Hope this makes it in to a single-varietal bottling as I think it would be wasted in a blend. Beautifully brigh, transparent fruit, gorgeous balance and fresh acidity.
  
• 2009 Garnacha barrel sample. A different beast, drier, darker, more burly, less finese and excitement.
  
• 2009 Olivio
  
• 2009 Tempranillo
  
• 2010 Tempranillo
  
• 2009 Selection Personal de Jesus Madrazo

• 2009 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Blanco

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  60& Viura, 20% malvasia & 20 garnacha Blanca.
  Fresh nose, grassy top notes passing on to more hay-like aromas.Reasonable weight, creamy texture to the mid-palate and refreshing on the finish. Good. ***1/2

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• 2007 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Variedad Graciano

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Intesnse, slightly dusty nose. Good fruit. Grippy finish. Quite long. A little more rustic than the Olivio. Still very young. (**1/2 to ***)

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• 2007 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Viña del Olivo

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Seems fruitier and more lifted on the nose. A touch of solvent. Positive attack, very good dark red fruit. Nice weight through the mid-palate and long finish. Grippy. (***)

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• 2004 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Gran Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Volatile nose, quite acetone-rich. Far better on the palate, dense, plush fruit. Positive finish. Denser and with better acidity than the 05 reserva. (****)

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• 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Again, a touch of acetone on the nose here but more cherry-led fruit coming through. Velvety tannins and good acidity. (***1/2)

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• 1981 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  fabulous brigh, full garnet colour, thinning to brick red at the rim. Classic older Rioja orange peel nose. Lovely and fresh on the attack, smooth mid-palate, very silky with a good finish. Just the faintest hint of mustiness at the finish - slightly mushroomy. Really lovely. ****1/2

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• 1973 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Mid brick-red to browning orange at the rim. Very scented orange rind on the nose. Good attack, very rounded and expansive on the mid-palate. Surprisingly long. lovely. **** We poured the remains from our glasses back in to the bottle, and did the same with the 81 Contini, taking them back to the hotel to finish off with dinner. After the 5 hour semi-double decant, this held up well and continued to improve to ****1/2+, overtaking the 81 Contino that started to fade a little and lose complexity. I'm pretty sure they don't make them like this anymore.

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