Chateaux Canon and Rauzan-Segla with John Kolasa
Merchant Taylors' Hall, Threadneedle Street, London EC2
Tasted Wednesday, December 8, 2010 by Paul D with 1,041 views
Introduction
JK opened by saying that his wine philosophy was shaped by his 8 years at Chateau Latour, and that he helped the Wertheimer's with their acquisition of Rauzan-Segla (1994) whilst still working there.
Flight 1 - Chateau Canon (5 Notes)
Chateau Canon was purchased in 1996, and there were a number of problems to be overcome the major one of which was rotting vine roots. The affected vines have gradually been replaced but the Grand Vin is still only made from 4 of the 22 Ha, a ratio that would have been far worse without the acquisition of a 4ha neighbouring vineyard in 2000. Indeed the first vines that were replanted only started being used for the Grand Vin in 2009.
Canon is located on the plateau and the terroir is heavily influenced by the predominance of limestone in the soil. This gives wines with complexity but also a certain austerity, freshness and minerality - it isn't a terroir for making a sexy, "modern", St Emilion. Kolasa is also careful not to use to much new oak - he wants the wines to taste of grapes and sunshine rather than wood!
Hailstorms are an occasional problem - reducing the crop by 50% in 1999 and 30% in 2008.
Flight 2 - Chateau Rauzan-Segla (5 Notes)
Purchased in 1994, there were also some problems in the vineyard, although not as significant as with Canon. Main issue was that the drainage needed renewing. Petit Verdot was introduced using clones from Margaux, Poujeaux and Chateau Gloria.
2008 Château Canon
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Open, youthful nose showing creamy red fruit, vanilla and a touch of florality. Lovely pure red fruit on the medium bodied palate, good persistency, lovely freshness. Kolasa suggested it would be 10-12 years before this was at its best. ****1/2
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2006 Château Canon
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Slight smoky character to the nose, but quite closed. Also not showing much on the palate, but darker fruited and a little richer than the 08. ****
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2005 Château Canon
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Again slightly muted on the palate, although did open a little with time in glass to reveal strikingly pure red fruit, floral notes, vanilla. Relatively mouth-filling on the palate with lovely ripe red fruit at its core, lovely purity, rich with more subtsance than the other vintages, notable (but fine) tannin and a long finish. Complete, a great wine, but needs lots of time. *****
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2001 Château Canon
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Notably more developed appearance with a wider paler rim. Notes of spice and soil on the nose, unsurprisingly not as rich as the 05 but good complexity and nuance. Well balanced, still a touch firm on the finish. Kolasa suggested just starting to drink but more backward than the 2000. ***1/2
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1998 Château Canon
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Still youthful, deep colour, with narrow rim. Sweet red fruited nose, softer, readier, some minerality and spice but perhaps finishes a little short. ***1/2
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