Vintage Champagne
Legend Cellars - Irvine, CA
Tasted Monday, December 13, 2010 by Paul Lin with 827 views
Introduction
Jay Selman used to organize a Champagne tasting at his office every year, but this year he moved it to the lounge at Legend Cellars in Irvine. There was a rather impressive assortment of wines presented this year, with many tete de cuvees making a welcome appearance. The WOTD for me was the 1995 Dom Perignon Oenotheque, with the 1996 Dom coming in second, but the 1996 Henriot made an impressive showing against some of the more pricey labels. Slightly disappointing was the 2000 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee, a wine that I had previously lauded at WOTD at another tasting. In any case, it was a fun tasting and it was good to see people that I had not seen in a while. Much thanks to Jay and Brian Clark for hosting this event!
Note bene: all of these wines were tasted in a Zalto Champagne glass, which in my experience tends to reveal the structure of a wine a bit more as well as highlighting its more youthful side.
1995 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque 94 Points
France, Champagne
This dignified wine is painfully young yet shows all the qualities of being a blue blood. Reserved notes of yeast, flint, and smoke at the outset, but with time and air it reveals quince, white flowers, and lemons followed by hints of aged leather, biscuit, and orange peels. Long and sumptuous on the palate. Not really approachable at the moment but it should be a stunner in about 5-10 years.
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1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 93 Points
France, Champagne
This otherwise fabulous wine seemed a bit shy today; I suspect that it is still a little shut down. However, in spite of its reserved appearance, I enjoyed the elegant notes of unripe nectarines, chamomile, lemon verbena, crushed minerals, and almonds. Polished on the palate with a racy acidity and refined finish.
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1996 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé 92 Points
France, Champagne
Henriot is one of those producers that doesn't seem to get much kudos from the vinerati. Sure, it's a large producer and its wines are ubiquitous, but the vintage bottlings can be downright yummy in good years. Take this one, for example. Sumptuous notes of baked red apples, toffee nut, honeycomb, lemon curd, sous bois, and green tea. Toasty and yeasty, it comes across much more expensive than it actually is. An outstanding wine for the tariff.
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1996 Duval-Leroy Champagne Brut Millésimé 90 Points
France, Champagne
This wine always seems to deliver. Notes of baked apple tart, poached pears, and baklava. Dense and rich on the palate with some pronounced Pinot character. Nicely textured.
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1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 90 Points
France, Champagne
Most 1998 tete de cuvees have been outperforming initial reports, but this one seems pretty much in line with the vintage. Expressive notes of honey green tea, nectarines, Golden Delicious apples, brioche, and almond slivers. Not as precise or well delineated as the 1996, and maybe even a bit muddled in the midpalate, but still an outstanding Champagne with a great deal of richness and power. Very good acidity.
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1998 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame 91 Points
France, Champagne
A hedonist's Champagne. Notes of creme brulee, vanilla, baking spices, and sweet apple tart. Seductive in a siren sort of way, but then again, that is why she is la grande dame. Delicious but lacks some restraint and refinement. 91-92 points.
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1999 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 85 Points
France, Champagne
Notes of buttered toast, green and yellow apples, and some crushed minerals. Lacks character and complexity but quite serviceable as a Champagne. Easy to drink.
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2000 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée 89 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
The last time I tasted this wine was a year and a half ago. Back then I gave it a 93 and declared it my WOTD. Today it was one of my least favorites of the tasting. Go figure. Crushed granite and peroxide on the nose followed by creamy Asian pear, green and yellow apples, and kiwi fruit. Nice weight on the palate with a mineral- and chalk-laden finish. A very fine wine by many accounts but just not as impressive as the previous bottle.
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2002 Bernard Hatté Champagne Special Club 90 Points
France, Champagne
This wine was an unknown quantity to me, but I have had generally good experiences with Special Clubs, especially those from good vintages. The Hatté was no exception, although it did take some time and patience for it to come around. Initial notes were that of mirin or rice wine vinegar on the nose along with Asian pear and sugar cane. Once the wine opened up, it revealed some red and Granny Smith apples, quince, fennel, wet stones and lavender. Transparent on the palate with a fine clean finish. A lovely wine.
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2003 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut Flawed
France, Champagne
This wine was pretty funky and disjointed and not very enjoyable to drink. Based upon the other notes here on CT I am going to assume it was flawed.
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2005 J. Lassalle Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Angeline 88 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Not quite as good as the 2002 but the family resemblance is still there. Bright and refreshing notes of pear skin, unripe nectarines, sugar cane, and oyster shells. Fine and delicate on the palate with a crystalline acidity.
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