Dinner at Roland's

All these wines were tasted double-blind, with the group trying to guess the theme. After the first two wines, I was pretty sure we were in Southern Rhone, but the third wine really threw me off and I began widening to all of Rhone to account for the one wine's Burgundian feel. The fourth wine kind of gave region away, though. The others at the table narrowed to year quite impressively.

Upon arrival, Roland and Andy were like Conan and Andy doing a cooking segment - hysterical. With Roland putting the finishing touches on a glorious smelling gravy, my stomach was growling. This and some nice charcuterie quelled that temporarily.

• NV Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Béguines 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Yellow gold, a bit reticent on the nose, but there's a berry and hay/dandelion thing going here that continues earthy through the very dry palate, adding some edges of minerality through to a sharp if short finish. I suspect its floral tones might have been louder had I given it time to warm.

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Charcuterie accompanied these wines, which all got another chance to impress after dinner was served.

• 2001 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind. Very dark and deep flavors on the nose, with nearly Amarone-like anise and blackberry notes, with secondaries of thyme and muddy gravel. Its concentrated fruit is well balanced by the stoniness but I think this needs another few years to shed the last vestiges of baby fat.

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• 2001 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind. Lots of anise on the nose, palate and through to the very solid finish, along with a sandalwood dust. Fruit is dark with soy tones yet rounder than its peers in the vintage that I've tasted so far. The fragrant sawdust is a bit distracting for me but I can see how some might regard it as an attractive secondary note. I do like that long finish, though. Great for the price.

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• 2001 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind, I didn't understand how this wine fit amongst the lineup (we were all to guess the theme). I found it very Burgundian with softer, red berries, secondaries of rose, leather and band-aid/gauze, and a very late arrival of structure, in the form of acidity and a tannic dry-out on the finish.

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Braised beef ribs, Brussels sprouts tossed with bacon, a creamy vegetable root puree and a tremendously rich gravy provided the gustatory canvas Grenache and Syrah were evolved to illuminate. Bravo to Roland.

• 2001 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind. First of all, delicious, especially against the background of the aroma of a kitchen about to serve beef ribs. This gave away a lot in terms of the theme of our tasting, as this was textbook Pegau (the first word of my short hand note), with big-beefy-beef-beef and rosemary, thyme, anise and garrigue. I asked for a second glass at this point because I didn't want to dump it to move to the next wine of the tasting. I'm going to need to get a few more of these.

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• 2001 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind. Nose of orchid and anise, lots of beef stock and soy on the palate, plus a bit of banana leaf and a nice peppery finish. Very impressive - structured, savory and persistent - worked great with the beef ribs. One of those wines that you have to hold yourself back from gulping despite its elegance.

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• 2001 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Tasted double-blind. Styled with a more understated, mineral driven approach than the beefy Pegau and the perfumed Felix before it in a lineup of 2001 CdP, this wine's bluer fruit and softness conjures the word regal. Still, I like the power of the aforementioned wines more.

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In all, a terrific time with great guys and phenomenal wines. I felt privileged to dine with folks light years ahead of me in wine experience. Learned a lot about the vintage while validating my own instinct and palate. Hope to do this kind of thing many more times in the future.