St. Francis Yacht Club, San Francisco, California
Tasted Tuesday, January 25, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,580 views
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In Vino Unitas is a group of wineries, most of which have long track records, that have banded together to present and market their wines directly to restaurants, wine shops and other major buyers. Their website asserts that, "Conducting business in this manner allows us to develop more connected and long lasting relationships." In pursuit of that agenda, the group stages periodic tastings for buyers and selected media. The one I attended, at the St. Francis Yacht Club in San Francisco last week, was one of five tastings the group offered over a week-long period in five different locations in California, starting January 24 in Napa and ending in Del Mar on February 2. The participating wineries are: Buoncristiani Family Winery, Chase Family Cellars, Dolce, Ehlers Estate, Far Niente, Gargiulo Vineyards, Gemstone Vineyard, Grgich Hills Estate, Heitz Wine Cellars, Jericho Canyon Vineyard, Krupp Brothers, Larkmead Vineyards, La Sirena, Mayacamas Vineyards, Meyer Family Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Nickel & Nickel, Quill Wines, Testarossa Vineyards, and Yorba Wines.
Most of these producers I was already familiar with. Some, like Navarro, Grgich and Nickel & Nickel, I've visited over the years. The majority of the producers also participate in the annual Family Winemakers events, which is where I'd first encountered Yorba last year. In the case of a few producers at this event (e.g., Jericho Canyon, La Sirena, Krupp Brothers), I'd recently tasted through their wines at another type of direct marketing event--the SF Vintners Market--aimed at sales to the general public. I posted about that tasting, which occurred last November, here: http://www.rjonwine.com/cabernet-sauvignon/sf-vintners-market/ That November event happened on a very chilly day in San Francisco, at the hard-to-heat Fort Mason Pavillion, right on the water, and a number of wines did not show all that well there due to the "cellar temperature" tasting conditions. I was therefore quite glad to have a chance to re-taste many of those wines here. I found that most all of them I had tasted before did show better at this event, under more typical room temperature conditions. The La Sirena wines, for example, which had been among the best I tasted at the Vintners Market, all showed even better at the Yacht Club. A couple of these producers, on the other hand, are fairly new (e.g., Gargiulo and Quill), so this was my first chance to taste their wines. In all, I tasted 90 wines, which was basically every wine being shown, at a fairly relaxed pace, at least compared to a Family Winemakers event. This gave me a little more time to focus on my notes and to compare, and even re-taste some wines. I think the group does a remarkably good job in organizing these events, and I liked the fact that the crowd was small enough to allow for conversation and interaction with the winemakers and winery representatives.
I came away pleased by the quality of the wines overall, and delighted by how well new releases from '07 and '09 are showing from many producers. The producers responsible for wines that I scored 92 points or higher at this event were: Dolce (under the same ownership group as Far Niente and Nickel & Nickel), Grgich Hills, Heitz, La Sirena, Navarro, Nickel & Nickel, Quill and Yorba. The producers that really stood out for me, for the quality of the wines overall, were Buoncristiani, Heitz, Jericho Canyon, Larkmead, La Sirena, Navarro, Quill and Yorba. My very top wines of the tasting, with ratings 93 points or higher, were:
2006 Dolce Winery Late Harvest
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard
2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard
2007 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon
For my tasting notes and further details about a few particular producers, see below:![]()
Buoncristiani wines are a collaboration amongst four brothers who, collectively, handle the viticulture, winemaking, production, artwork and marketing. Jay Buoncristiani, who is in charge of the winemaking, is making the Gemella wines under his own label. I was particularly impressed with the '07 Cabernet.
A delicious sweetie, with just the right acid balance.
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This is, of course, a legendary producer, and the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet is one of the most distinctive Cabernets in California. The '05 Trailside and Martha's Vineyard were both gorgeous young Cabs, and the Sauvignon Blanc is one of the better California SBs I've tasted in the last couple years.
Heidi Barrett, flanked by her beautiful daughters Remy and Chelsea![]()
I was very glad to get to try these wines again, under non-freezing room conditions. A very impressive line up across the board, as one might expect from someone with Heidi's long and impressive track record. The Syrahs each had a different flavor profile. The Barrett Vineyard Syrah was the single best, but all were good. The Cabernet is also terrific.
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Ann Kraemer, on the left above, is the viticulturalist for Ken Bernards, of Ancien, so Ken makes the wines for Ann. I tasted the Yorba wines for the first time at Family Winemakers last year, and wrote then that it's a strong lineup, and that the Tempranillo is the best I've tasted from California. Definitely a producer to watch.
2007 Buoncristiani OPC Proprietary Red 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple red violet color; subtle oak, ripe plum, cedar, red berry nose; tasty, fresh, tight, ripe red plum, berry palate, needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish
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2007 Buoncristiani Syrah Artistico 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; spicy plum, roasted berry, baking spice nose; ripe plum, berry, black fruit, spice palate; medium-plus finish (16 mos. in 30% new French oak)
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2007 Buoncristiani Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark purple red violet color; plum, berry nose; solid, ripe berry, plum palate; medium-plus finish (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 1% Merlot; 20 mos. in 80% new French oak)
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2008 Gemella Wines Viognier 87 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Light yellow color; floral, ripe apple, ripe peach, vanilla nose; tight, tart peach, floral, mineral, green fruit palate; medium finish
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