In Vino Unitas: California Producers Direct Market

St. Francis Yacht Club, San Francisco, California
Tasted Tuesday, January 25, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,580 views

Introduction

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In Vino Unitas is a group of wineries, most of which have long track records, that have banded together to present and market their wines directly to restaurants, wine shops and other major buyers. Their website asserts that, "Conducting business in this manner allows us to develop more connected and long lasting relationships." In pursuit of that agenda, the group stages periodic tastings for buyers and selected media. The one I attended, at the St. Francis Yacht Club in San Francisco last week, was one of five tastings the group offered over a week-long period in five different locations in California, starting January 24 in Napa and ending in Del Mar on February 2. The participating wineries are: Buoncristiani Family Winery, Chase Family Cellars, Dolce, Ehlers Estate, Far Niente, Gargiulo Vineyards, Gemstone Vineyard, Grgich Hills Estate, Heitz Wine Cellars, Jericho Canyon Vineyard, Krupp Brothers, Larkmead Vineyards, La Sirena, Mayacamas Vineyards, Meyer Family Cellars, Navarro Vineyards, Nickel & Nickel, Quill Wines, Testarossa Vineyards, and Yorba Wines.

Most of these producers I was already familiar with. Some, like Navarro, Grgich and Nickel & Nickel, I've visited over the years. The majority of the producers also participate in the annual Family Winemakers events, which is where I'd first encountered Yorba last year. In the case of a few producers at this event (e.g., Jericho Canyon, La Sirena, Krupp Brothers), I'd recently tasted through their wines at another type of direct marketing event--the SF Vintners Market--aimed at sales to the general public. I posted about that tasting, which occurred last November, here: http://www.rjonwine.com/cabernet-sauvignon/sf-vintners-market/ That November event happened on a very chilly day in San Francisco, at the hard-to-heat Fort Mason Pavillion, right on the water, and a number of wines did not show all that well there due to the "cellar temperature" tasting conditions. I was therefore quite glad to have a chance to re-taste many of those wines here. I found that most all of them I had tasted before did show better at this event, under more typical room temperature conditions. The La Sirena wines, for example, which had been among the best I tasted at the Vintners Market, all showed even better at the Yacht Club. A couple of these producers, on the other hand, are fairly new (e.g., Gargiulo and Quill), so this was my first chance to taste their wines. In all, I tasted 90 wines, which was basically every wine being shown, at a fairly relaxed pace, at least compared to a Family Winemakers event. This gave me a little more time to focus on my notes and to compare, and even re-taste some wines. I think the group does a remarkably good job in organizing these events, and I liked the fact that the crowd was small enough to allow for conversation and interaction with the winemakers and winery representatives.

I came away pleased by the quality of the wines overall, and delighted by how well new releases from '07 and '09 are showing from many producers. The producers responsible for wines that I scored 92 points or higher at this event were: Dolce (under the same ownership group as Far Niente and Nickel & Nickel), Grgich Hills, Heitz, La Sirena, Navarro, Nickel & Nickel, Quill and Yorba. The producers that really stood out for me, for the quality of the wines overall, were Buoncristiani, Heitz, Jericho Canyon, Larkmead, La Sirena, Navarro, Quill and Yorba. My very top wines of the tasting, with ratings 93 points or higher, were:
2006 Dolce Winery Late Harvest
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside Vineyard
2005 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard
2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard
2007 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon

For my tasting notes and further details about a few particular producers, see below:
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Flight 1 - Buoncristiani (4 Notes)

Buoncristiani wines are a collaboration amongst four brothers who, collectively, handle the viticulture, winemaking, production, artwork and marketing. Jay Buoncristiani, who is in charge of the winemaking, is making the Gemella wines under his own label. I was particularly impressed with the '07 Cabernet.

  • 2007 Buoncristiani OPC Proprietary Red 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Dark purple red violet color; subtle oak, ripe plum, cedar, red berry nose; tasty, fresh, tight, ripe red plum, berry palate, needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish

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  • 2007 Buoncristiani Syrah Artistico 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Opaque purple red violet color; spicy plum, roasted berry, baking spice nose; ripe plum, berry, black fruit, spice palate; medium-plus finish (16 mos. in 30% new French oak)

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  • 2007 Buoncristiani Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Dark purple red violet color; plum, berry nose; solid, ripe berry, plum palate; medium-plus finish (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 1% Merlot; 20 mos. in 80% new French oak)

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  • 2008 Gemella Wines Viognier 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Light yellow color; floral, ripe apple, ripe peach, vanilla nose; tight, tart peach, floral, mineral, green fruit palate; medium finish

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Flight 2 - Chase (2 Notes)

Flight 3 - Dolce (1 Note)

A delicious sweetie, with just the right acid balance.

  • 2006 Dolce Winery Late Harvest 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    From 375 ml - light golden yellow color; nice, ripe apricot, pear, botrytis nose; tasty, delicious, juicy, tart apricot, ripe apricot, ripe peach, baked peach palate; long finish (90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc)

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Flight 4 - Ehlers (4 Notes)

Flight 5 - Far Niente (4 Notes)

Flight 6 - Gargiulo (3 Notes)

Flight 7 - Gemstone (3 Notes)

  • 2007 Gemstone Facets 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; tight, tart black fruit, oak, espresso nose; tight, ripe, blackberry, espresso, black fruit palate, needs 2-plus years; medium finish (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot)

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  • 2007 Gemstone G 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville

    Dark purple red violet color; mint, sweet oak, mint chocolate nose; mint chocolate, ripe black fruit, blackberry, oak palate; medium-plus finish 88+ pts. (20 mos. in 70% new French oak; 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.5% Merlot, 3.5% Petit Verdot)

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  • 2006 Gemstone G 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville

    Dark purple red violet color; smoke, tar, tart berry nose; tasty, tart black fruit, tar, espresso palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot)

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Flight 8 - Grgich Hills (8 Notes)

Flight 9 - Heitz (8 Notes)

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This is, of course, a legendary producer, and the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet is one of the most distinctive Cabernets in California. The '05 Trailside and Martha's Vineyard were both gorgeous young Cabs, and the Sauvignon Blanc is one of the better California SBs I've tasted in the last couple years.

Flight 10 - Jericho Canyon (3 Notes)

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Flight 11 - Krupp Brothers (5 Notes)

Flight 12 - Larkmead (4 Notes)

  • 2008 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; olive, tart black fruit nose; tasty, olive, tart black fruit, bay leaf palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot)

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  • 2007 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Dark red violet color; tart red fruit, cedar, slightly herbaceous nose; tasty, concentrated, tart red currant, cassis, red berry palate; medium-plus finish (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc)

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  • 2006 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Dark red violet color; VA, red berry, Chinese red bean nose; tart red berry, red bean, currant palate; medium-plus finish

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  • 2005 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; cassis, herbaceous, olive, red fruit nose; cassis, herbaceous, olive, red fruit palate; medium-plus finish

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Flight 13 - La Sirena (6 Notes)

Heidi Barrett, flanked by her beautiful daughters Remy and Chelsea
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I was very glad to get to try these wines again, under non-freezing room conditions. A very impressive line up across the board, as one might expect from someone with Heidi's long and impressive track record. The Syrahs each had a different flavor profile. The Barrett Vineyard Syrah was the single best, but all were good. The Cabernet is also terrific.

  • 2009 La Sirena Moscato Azul 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Light yellow color; nice orange blossom, peach nose; tasty, tart peach, orange blossom, orange palate with good acidity; medium finish 91+ pts. (good food wine)

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  • 2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga

    Dark red violet color; roasted red fruit, smoke nose; tasty, smoke, tart black fruit, chocolate palate, with fig on medium-plus finish

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  • 2006 La Sirena Syrah 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; herbal, roasted plum nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted black fruit, smoke, meaty palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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  • 2006 La Sirena Syrah Barrett Vineyard 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga

    Dark purple red violet color; oak, herbal, roasted plum nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted plum, charcoal, tar palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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  • 2007 La Sirena Pirate TreasuRed 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; smoke, tar, tart black fruit nose; tasty, tart black fruit, tart plum, charcoal, tar palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Grenache; 40% new French oak for 22 mos.)

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  • 2007 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very dark red violet color; green herb, black fruit, tar, charcoal nose; tasty, rich, tart black fruit, charcoal, tar palate; long finish (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc; much better than when I had it in the very cold Fort Mason tasting a few months back, as was the whole La Sirena lineup)

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Flight 14 - Mayacamas (4 Notes)

  • 2007 Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

    Light yellow color; nice ripe lemon, peach nose; tart apple, tart peach palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (6 mos. in American oak, then 1 year in French oak, 10% new)

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  • 2007 Mayacamas Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

    Light green-tinged yellow color; tart apple, tart peach nose; tart peach, green herb palate, lacking in acidity; medium finish

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  • 2005 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

    Dark red violet color; cassis, menthol, herbaceous nose; tart cassis, herbaceous, menthol palate with medium acidity, needs 4-5 years; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc; 1.5 years in large oak barrels, 1 year in 60 gallon oak barrels)

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  • 2006 Mayacamas Vineyards Merlot 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

    Dark cherry red color; nice wild berry, blackberry, black fruit nose; tasty, tart berry, currant, wild berry palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon; 6 mos. in large oak casks, then 1 year in small barriques)

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Flight 15 - Meyer Family (4 Notes)

Flight 16 - Navarro (7 Notes)

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Navarro wines have to be among the most consistent, and fairly priced wines, year after year in California. Their Gewürz is always one of the best in California, and the Pinots and other varietals are strong too.

  • 2008 Navarro Vineyards Gewürztraminer 91 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Light green tinged yellow color; lovely roses, light grapefruit nose; tasty, tart grapefruit, roses, mineral palate with zingy acidity; medium finish

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  • 2008 Navarro Vineyards Chardonnay Première Réserve 89 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Light lemon yellow color; ripe lemon, citrus, tart pineapple nose; tart citrus, oak, tart pineapple palate with medium acidity; medium finish

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  • 2009 Navarro Vineyards Muscat Blanc 90 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Pale yellow color; light honeydew melon, apple, orange blossom nose; tasty, tart apple, orange blossom, mineral, citrus palate with near medium acidity; medium finish 90+ pts.

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  • 2007 Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir "Méthode à l'Ancienne" 91 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Dark cherry red color; dark cherry, raspberry, subtle oak nose; tasty, tart cherry, tart strawberry, mineral palate with near medium acidity, needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish

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  • 2007 Navarro Vineyards Zinfandel 90 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino

    Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; big red berry, floral, blackberry nose; poised, red berry, tart blackberry, minerally palate with near medium acidity, needs 3-plus years; medium finish

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  • 2008 Navarro Vineyards Navarrouge 85 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino

    Dark scarlet red color; smoke, roasted berry nose; smoke, tart roasted red berry palate with medium acidity; short-medium finish (90% Syrah, 10% Zinfandel)

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  • 2007 Navarro Vineyards Riesling Cluster Select Late Harvest 92 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Medium apricot color; rich tart apricot, ripe peach, ripe mandarin orange nose; tasty, ripe apricot, tart apricot, ripe peach, mandarin orange, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (205 grams RS)

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Flight 17 - Nickel & Nickel (4 Notes)

Flight 18 - Quill (5 Notes)

Shana Graham, owner of Quill Wines
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Quill was the newest producer represented at the tasting. Ehren Jordan is now making the wines, at his Failla Winery, and the '07 Diamond Mountain Cab and '07 Bismark Mountain Ranch Syrah were particularly strong.

Flight 19 - Testarossa (5 Notes)

Flight 20 - Yorba (5 Notes)

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Ann Kraemer, on the left above, is the viticulturalist for Ken Bernards, of Ancien, so Ken makes the wines for Ann. I tasted the Yorba wines for the first time at Family Winemakers last year, and wrote then that it's a strong lineup, and that the Tempranillo is the best I've tasted from California. Definitely a producer to watch.

  • 2007 Yorba Barbera 89 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Dark red violet color; herbal, red berry, tart plum nose; tasty, tart red plum, herbal palate; medium finish 89+ pts.

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  • 2006 Yorba Zinfandel 91 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Dark purple red violet color; nice spicy, berry, black fruit, tar nose; tasty, poised, ripe black fruit, blackberry palate with subtle herbs; medium finish (82% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah)

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  • 2006 Yorba Syrah 92 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Opaque red violet color; nice, ripe black fruit, floral, licorice nose; tart, plush black fruit, tart berry palate, soft and rich; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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  • 2007 Yorba Tempranillo 92 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Dark purple red violet color; nice ripe berry, spice, blue plum, licorice nose; tasty, lovely, ripe plum, berry palate, delicious now but should be humming in 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano)

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  • 2007 Yorba Shake Ridge Red 90 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Dark purple red violet color; spicy red plum, floral, raspberry nose; tasty, plush, poised, red raspberry, spicy red plum palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (31% Syrah, 28% Primitivo, 18% Petite Sirah, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Malbec, 6% Merlot)

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