2011 Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Tasting
Beltramo's in Menlo Park, California, and Fort Mason, San Francisco, California
Tasted Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - Wednesday, February 16, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 4,100 views
Introduction
Gambero Rosso is an Italian wine and food magazine whose name translates as “red prawn.” Since 1987, the magazine has published a guide to Italian wine, Vini d’Italia, which quickly became the most influential such guide in Italy. Vini d’Italia’s dominance in Italy is something like the Wine Advocate’s dominance on Bordeaux and California wine in years back, except that Vini d’Italia uses panels of tasters and blindtastings to arrive at rankings–so in that sense it’s not like Parker’s rag at all. The Gambero Rosso website claims that, for the 2011 edition, 70 independent experts traveled around Italy for months, deciding on over 30,000 samples before classifying each and writing a review. From those tastings, panels chose about 1500 wines, and after a final round of blind tastings, the prize winners for the 2011 Vini d’Italia were selected. Each wine in the guide is assigned either one, two or three glasses, “bicchieri” in Italian, with the top rating, three glasses, indicating “extraordinary wines.” One glass indicates “good wine,” while two is supposed to designate “very good wine.” Starting in the 2002 edition of Vini d’Italia, two red glasses indicates a wine selected as a possible candidate for three glasses, that was not ultimately chosen for the highest designation. This year, 402 wines were awarded tre bicchieri.
Gambero Rosso presented the latest edition of their Tre Bicchieri tasting event in San Francisco’s Fort Mason on February 16. (The same event traveled to New York City on February 18, and to Chicago for a February 22 tasting.) Their website describes it as “the most important North American presentation of premium Italian wines.” The world tour of this event actually kicked off in December in Hong Kong (for the first time), and then gathered in early February in Munich before coming to the U.S. It ends in June in Montreal. The program listed 136 producers along with their wines which were either Tre Bicchieri winners, or winners of two glasses, or two red glasses. The wines were presented by the wineries’ U.S. importers/distributors (or, in the cases of about 40 wineries with no importer, by the winery on its own). The night before the Tre Bicchieri tasting, Beltramo’s in Menlo Park hosted an event for Vinifera Imports Ltd, at which I got to taste 21 wines from Tre Bicchieri winners Brigaldara, Canalicchio di Sopra, Fontodi, Pelissero and Prà. That gave me a much needed leg up on the next day’s tasting, but it is still impossible to taste everything there in the four hours or so that the event lasts. I estimate that over 200 wines were available for tasting at the event. I got to about 125 at the Tre Bicchieri tasting itself, plus 21 the night before, for a total of 146 wines from 95 Tre Bicchieri producers.
I have to say that while this was the best organized Italian wine event I’ve been to, it was still rather chaotic compared to most of the other large scale tastings I attend. The annual UGC Bordeaux tasting, for example, is probably the best organized regular, major tasting of all. It is clearly and logically arranged to allow you to come in and taste the Bordeaux whites together, the reds of each appellation together (alphabetically arranged) and then end with the Sauternes all together. At this tasting, by contrast, since it is organized alphabetically by importer/distributor rather than by producer, it makes for quite the hodge podge of producers, regions and types of wine. I tried tasting sparkling and whites first, but that meant having to wander all over the large Fort Mason conference center, trying to see past crowds in front of tables to discern who was pouring such wines, as the program was no help at all. With high acid, very tannic young Italian reds, one can develop palate fatigue quite quickly, let alone from having to go back and forth from Amarones to more delicate whites and reds. Then there’s the fact, which has been consistent at other Italian trade tastings I’ve been to, that Italian producers and/or their representatives seem less concerned about the particularities of vintage and other distinguishing aspects of wines being presented than producers from other regions. Between trying to figure out where to go next in a tasting that has no varietal, wine type or region order to it, and then having to compare each label to what was listed in the program (as the vintage poured was sometimes different from the program, which didn’t seem relevant to most of the reps I pointed that out to), I felt I really had to stay on my toes throughout this tasting. Nonetheless, there were some very good wines, and many that one rarely gets a chance to taste here, so I appreciate the opportunity presented by this tasting. I just wish it was organized in a way that made it more accessible to those of us who don’t think of Italian wines primarily in terms of their (often changing) importer/distributor.
Below is my own best of the Tre Bicchieri elite, to which I gave 92 points or more. I like to think of them as the “tres bitchin’.” ;-) That list is followed by tasting notes for all 146 wines I tasted–alphabetically by producer (in contrast to the way the tasting was organized), and a brief background on five very different producers that particularly got my attention as a result of this tasting: Brigaldara, Ferrari, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Luigi d’Alessandro and Tabarrini.
Barolos, Brunellos and Barbarescos from 2004 and 2006, vintages I’ve already been very much enjoying, stood out for me at this tasting, as did Amarones from 2005 and 2006. I note that my list of those I rated the highest is dominated by the big wines, like Barolos, Brunellos and Amarones, which I suppose is to be expected, since Piedmont and Tuscany dominate the list of Tre Bicchieri honorees, with 81 and 69 wines each. I therefore want to first mention some of the more unusual, non-big-red wines that I really liked, that didn’t quite merit 92 points in my mind, but that were excellent for their type. Those include a balanced and delicious rosé Franciacorta sparkling wine from Berlucchi Guido–the NV Cuvee Storica ’61; the best Italian Gewurztraminer I’ve tasted–the ’09 Elena Walch from Alto Adige; and a remarkably poised and classy Soave, the ’08 Prà Soave Classico Staforte. Okay, now for the “tres bitchin’” best of the best:
2006 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – 92 points
2006 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – 94 points
2008 Carpineta Fontalpino Do Ut Des Toscana IGT – 92+ points
2001 Ferrari Trento Giulio – Riserva del Fondatore Brut – 92 points (one of the best Italian sparklers I’ve ever tasted)
2005 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Storico Liste – 92 points
2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – 93 points
2006 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – 93 points
2004 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – 93+ points
2009 Il Falchetto Moscato d’Asti Tenuta del Fant – 92 points (probably the best Italian dry Moscato I’ve ever tried–really wonderful)
2005 Lorenzo Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca’ Bianca – 92 points
2007 Tenimenti Luigi d’Alessandro (Manzano) Cortona Syrah Cortona Migliara – 93 points (this and the next probably the two best Italian Syrahs I’ve tasted)
2007 Tenimenti Luigi d’Alessandro (Manzano) Syrah Cortona Il Bosco – 93 points
2008 Mamete Prevostini Valtellina Sforzato Albareda – 93 points (regularly a favorite for me, vintage after vintage)
2004 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda – 93+ points
2004 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva – 92+ points
2007 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle – 92 points
2006 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra – 92+ points
2007 Agricola Punica Barrua Isola dei Nuraghi IGT – 92 points
2006 Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche – 92 points
2007 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vürsù Vigneto Starderi – 92 points
2004 Tabarrini Sagrantino di Montefalco Colle alla Machie – 93 points
2006 Tabarrini Sagrantino di Montefalco Campo alla cerqua – 92+ points
2004 Tormaresca Negroamaro Masseria Maìme Salento IGT – 92 points
2007 Torre Dei Beati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cocciapazza – 92 points
2004 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano – 92 points
2005 Venturini Massimino Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campomasua – 92 points
2005 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sergio Zenato Riserva – 93 points
NB: A note regarding my scoring in high speed trade tastings like this: When I can only spend a minute or two with a wine, I try to get a sense of the structure and complexity, and some basic descriptors that might give others a sense of the taste and how it might pair with food. I also try to judge the beginning of the tasting window, if it’s not an accessible wine at that moment, as I’ve received requests for that over the past year or so. I do not have time, however, to linger over the wine, obviously, to have it open up in the glass, as many powerful, structured wines do over one to three hours, especially powerful young wines like youthful Barolos from great producers. So a 93, or occasionally a 94, is pretty much the highest I ever give in a high speed tasting like this, as there just isn’t time to fully judge the rest of what might be there. I prefer to err on the side of conservatism, and not assume that it’s going to open up beautifully, as some complex, very structured wines do not. I do the same thing when tasting a profound wine over dinner. I’ll give it a first rating, which is usually on the low side, but keep it in the glass and go back to it, and rate it again as it opens up. At the end of the night, when finishing up tasting notes, I’ll obviously score it at the highest level I got to witness over the course of the night. Again, though, there’s no time or place to do that in a trade tasting like this, so 93s and 94s at such tastings, for me, indicate the top wines I tasted at the event. Very likely I’ll rate some of those wines higher when I have an opportunity to taste them again, either with more development in the bottle or more time to let them open up in the glass.
Flight 1 - Allegrini (1 Note)
Flight 2 - Arnaldo-Caprai (1 Note)
Flight 3 - Balter (1 Note)
Flight 4 - Banfi (3 Notes)
Flight 5 - Barone Ricasoli (3 Notes)
Flight 6 - Basilisco (1 Note)
Flight 7 - Belisario (1 Note)
Flight 8 - Berlucchi Guido (2 Notes)
Flight 9 - Bolgheri (1 Note)
Flight 10 - Boscarelli (1 Note)
Flight 11 - Brigaldara (3 Notes)
The '06 Brigaldara Amarone was my top rated wine of the entire tasting. I had tried a couple wines from this producer before and not been that impressed, but the '06 Amarone was intense and complex in a memorable way. Stefano Cesari, pictured below, uses natural, traditional methods, and his Amarones are his top wines.
Flight 12 - Canalicchio di Sopra (3 Notes)
Flight 13 - Capichera (2 Notes)
Flight 14 - Caprili (2 Notes)
Flight 15 - Carpineta Fontalpino (1 Note)
Flight 16 - Castellare di Castellina (1 Note)
Flight 17 - Ca' Viola (1 Note)
Flight 18 - Chiaromonte (1 Note)
Flight 19 - Coppo (1 Note)
Flight 20 - Corte (1 Note)
Flight 21 - Cottanera (1 Note)
Flight 22 - Di Majo Norante (1 Note)
Flight 23 - Donnafugata (1 Note)
Flight 24 - Edi Kante (2 Notes)
Flight 25 - Elena Walch (1 Note)
Flight 26 - Fazi Battaglia (2 Notes)
Flight 27 - Fèlsina Berardenga (2 Notes)
Flight 28 - Ferrari (3 Notes)
Ferrari was started in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, who first studied in France. On his return to Trentino, he supposedly became the first to plant Chardonnay there. The Bruts are made by the traditional metodo classico, during which the wine is matured for at least 24 months on its lees. The '01, the producer's top cuvee, spent 10 years on its lees. I was quite impressed with it. I also see that Ferrari's winemaker, Ruben Larentis, won a special Tre Bicchieri award as Oenologist of the Year.
Flight 29 - Feudi di San Gregorio (2 Notes)
Flight 30 - Fontodi (1 Note)
Flight 31 - Garofoli (2 Notes)
Flight 32 - Germano Ettore (2 Notes)
Flight 33 - Giacomo Borgogno (1 Note)
Flight 34 - Giacosa (1 Note)
Flight 35 - Giorgio Pelissero (6 Notes)
Flight 36 - Giuseppe Rinaldi (2 Notes)
Giuseppe Rinaldi, currently run by the grandson of the founder (both of whom were named Giuseppe), is a very traditional Barolo producer, fermenting Nebbiolo from excellent vineyard sites in large Slavonian oak botti. The current Giuseppe, however, uses a ripasso method in which Barbera skins are added to the Nebbiolo must, which he insists is a long established method, but one which is not much talked about. Since 1993 the two Barolos are both blends, all sourced from the same 4 estate vineyards: one a cuvée of Brunate and Le Coste, the other, of Cannubi San Lorenzo and Ravera. I do prefer traditional style Barolo to those made with new oak, and both of these Le Coste bottlings were quite impressive and ideal for long aging.
Flight 37 - Il Decugnano dei Barbi (1 Note)
Flight 38 - Il Falchetto (1 Note)
Flight 39 - Il Mosnel (1 Note)
Flight 40 - Il Pollenza (1 Note)
Flight 41 - Librandi (2 Notes)
Flight 42 - Lorenzo Begali (1 Note)
Flight 43 - Luigi Cecchi (2 Notes)
Flight 44 - Luigi d'Alessandro (2 Notes)
I was fascinated to learn that Luca Currado, Vietti's owner and winemaker (whose wines I like very much), is the winemaker for this producer, with assistant winemaker Christine Vernay, a winemaker from France's Rhone Valley. The Migliara bottling is a selection of barrels from the Migliara vineyard. It is aged for 24 months in barriques before the final cuvee is assembled, and after assemblage spends five months in cement vats and another five months in bottle before release. The Il Bosco bottling is likewise a selection of wines from older vineyards, which are raised in barriques, a third of which are new, for 18 to 20 months. 
Flight 45 - Lunae Bosoni (2 Notes)
Flight 46 - Mamete Prevostini (1 Note)
Flight 47 - Marchesi di Barolo (1 Note)
Flight 48 - Marchesi Mazzei (1 Note)
Flight 49 - Marchesine (2 Notes)
Flight 50 - Masi (2 Notes)
Flight 51 - Massolino (1 Note)
Flight 52 - Mastroberardino (2 Notes)
Flight 53 - Michele Chiarlo (2 Notes)
Flight 54 - Mirafiore (1 Note)
Flight 55 - Monsanto (1 Note)
Flight 56 - Moroder (2 Notes)
Flight 57 - Nino Franco (2 Notes)
Flight 58 - Nino Negri (3 Notes)
Flight 59 - Nozzole (1 Note)
Flight 60 - Olim Bauda (1 Note)
Flight 61 - Paolo Conterno (1 Note)
Flight 62 - Palari (2 Notes)
Flight 63 - Perticaia (1 Note)
Flight 64 - Pietracupa (2 Notes)
Flight 65 - Pietradolce (1 Note)
Flight 66 - Pio Cesare (1 Note)
Flight 67 - Piovene Porto Godi (1 Note)
Flight 68 - Planeta (1 Note)
Flight 69 - Poggio Bonelli (1 Note)
Flight 70 - Poliziano (1 Note)
Flight 71 - Prà (4 Notes)
Flight 72 - Provenza (1 Note)
Flight 73 - Punica (1 Note)
Flight 74 - Renato Ratti (1 Note)
Flight 75 - Romitorio (1 Note)
Flight 76 - San Guido (1 Note)
Flight 77 - Sapaio (1 Note)
Flight 78 - Sella & Mosca (1 Note)
Flight 79 - Serafini & Vidotto (1 Note)
Flight 80 - Sergio Mottura (2 Notes)
Flight 81 - Spinetta (1 Note)
Flight 82 - Tabarrini (4 Notes)
Giampaolo Tabarrini, pictured below, makes these wines from the Sagrantino grape, which has huge tannins and an unusually high level of phenolic compounds. I was quite impressed. These are among the very best Sagrantino wines I've tried. Giampaolo has some method of removing the seeds from the grapes, which helps diminish some of the excessive bitterness Sagrantino can exhibit. The wines spend 30 months in French oak, and then an additional six months aging in bottle.
2006 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 92 Points
Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
(2/16/2011)
Dark red violet color; roasted red plum, dried berry, tar, sweet black fruit nose; tasty, tight, ripe black fruit, tar, licorice palate with depth; long finish
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