Seattle Tasting Group does 1990 and older Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The self-proclaimed Seattle Tasting Group assembled at Jason & Tracy Goldberger's to sample 1990 and older Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This was a glorious tasting with one stunning wine after another. Roy also surprised us with a surprise guest, Rupert Symington, who was in town. Rupert was an eager and eloquent participant, and eerily he, Jason and I had nearly identical scores and rankings across the board for for the Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

All wines were served blind. Spitting was also the general rule.

While sampling cheeses and chatting, Jason broke out this somewhat odd wine. None of us really knew quite what to make of it, although it did improve with the cheese.

• 2000 Château Rieussec R 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  What a strange and interesting wine. The nose on this was oddly nutty with an oxidative note. The palate shows quite a lot of body with a creamy texture and continued nuttiness. There is a hint of sharp acid on the finish. The seems to be dominated by Sémillon. On its own this was a bit funky, but with some reach cheeses this was surprisingly tasty. An interesting albeit odd wine.

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Then we sat down and started with a flight of rose. It would be hard to imagine two more different wines than this pair, one so dark and the other pale as a ghost. Surprise, surprise, the pale one easily stole the flight.

• 2003 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame Rousse 82 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Tavel

  This seems to be a failed effort. At 14.5% alcohol, there is little I look for in a Rose with this wine. Very dark in color, like a raspberry soda. The somewhat cloying nose shows loads of strawberry. Wow, the palate is like lighter fluid with huge notes of alcohol dominating the wine, very high octane, very sweet. The finish is very long with persistent notes of pomegranate, chalk and some bitterness. Tasting this, one wonder why they bothered with a rose in 2003.

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• 2003 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 89 Points

  France, Provence, Bandol

  Now this is a Rosé! The color is extremely pale, almost like a white wine with just a hint of orange. The nose shows gorgeous minerality and an intriguing floral quality. Wow, the palate is very vibrant, packed with minerals and grapefruit. The long finish is cleansing and fresh. Very nice.

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Our first red-flight was a singleton. Jason had a problem with some leaky 1990 Pegau, so rather than chancing those this joined the party. The group concensus was that this was too young, but it improved greatly with aeration.

• 1994 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The nose is slightly herbal, dusky, with band-aid, iron, and iodine, clamping down with more air. The palate is deep and powerful, very rich, very dark, quite intense. The finish is dry yet powerful, very closed, boiling just beneath the surface. This bottle needed a lot more decanting or a few more years.

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Wowza, now we moved on the serious stuff. Oh that Bonneau!

• 1990 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  This was my WOTN. Initially the nose showed loads of horse which moved to garrigue, heavy tar, and iodine. OMG, the palate is deep and black, leathery, with loads of licorice. With air the palate became sweeter and sweeter, although the nose did close up a but. This explodes in your mouth with layers of garrigue and roasted meat, complex far beyond my words. The huge finish is absolutely delightful with stunning length. This is absolutely along the finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape I have ever tasted. Group average 94.9

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• 1990 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  This screams of grenache. The nose shows sweet cherry, but overall the aromatics are lacking. On the palate this continues with notes of cherry liqueur. The mouthful is silky bordering on voluptuous, the highlight of the wine. This remains very focused and tight, pure yet somewhat alcoholic. Eventually with air some garrigue comes forward, and with multi-hour aeration in the glass this improved. Group average 92.3

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• 1990 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The nose is screaming with dried herbs, wow! With time quite a lot of horse moves to the front. On the palate this so sweet and herbal with huge notes of licorice. Leathery and meaty, this is singing a powerful song. The finish is massive and black, clamping down with air and gaining a meaty personality.
  Group average 93.3

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We finished up the reds with a stunning flight of Beaucastel. Tasting the 1989 and 1990 side by side made it clear that the 1990 is FAR closer to maturity, although both wines have an easy decade ahead. Thes were so good that we scratched our heads thinking about what the Hommage à Jacques Perrin must be like from these vintages. It is hard to think of better wines.

• 1983 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The color is very light and somewhat murky. The nose shows surprising notes of mint, hay, pine and smoked meat. This clearly looks and smells older than the other two wines in the flight. The palate is supersweet and spicy with aniseed and dried herbs. While this is perhaps a tiny bit tired, it is still a wonderfully mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Group average 91.3

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• 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I correctly guessed this blind. Stunning purple color. The palate is extremely intense with notions of pure raspberry and tar, very tight and extremely primary. While this is absolutely huge it is almost painful right now since it is so primary, nearly impenetrable. Group average 94.7.

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• 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  In comparison to the 1989 this is so much more giving and ready right now. The nose is unreal, just screaming out of the glass with horse, sweet herbs cherry, and menthol, utterly piercing and soaring. On the palate this is so sweet and delicious yet powerful with huge structure, still very primary and sappy. There is very impressive purity and intensity here. Group average 94.9

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Finally we finished up with some dessert wines. Both the Setúbal and the Colheita were painful with searing, intense alcohol, so Jason pulled out the Rocha Three Centuries so we could finish on an up note.

• 2000 Alois Kracher Grande Cuvée TBA #6 Nouvelle Vague

  Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee

  This is a bottle which Jason opened two days earlier. Stunningly ripe with rotting pears. On the palate this is unctuous, thick and terrific stuff!

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• 1962 José Maria da Fonseca Moscatel de Setúbal Superior

  Portugal, Península de Setúbal, Moscatel de Setúbal

  Very brown in color. The nose shows amazing amounts of spirit, caramelized onion, vinegar, orange peel and saline. On the palate this shows searing alcohol and is almost painful to drink. Notes of coffee appear on the long, nutty finish. Very unique wine made from Moscatel.

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• 1937 Quinta do Noval Porto Colheita

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  This is very brown in color with orange peel and lots of volatile acidity. Not a pleasing drink.

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• NV Porto Rocha Porto Three Centuries 92 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Mmm, this is more like it. Coffee, nuts and toffee with fantastic texture. The alcohol stands out at first but starts to integrate quickly. With a few hours of decanting this seems like it would come together for sure. Wow, what an unreal finish to this wine, long and toothsome, a great way to finish the evening.

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Thanks folks for another fantastic tasting!