Amarone with the Third Thursday Group

The theme selected for February was Amarone. Most of us don't collect this style of wine, so there was a fair amount of retail discovery involved in lining up this event. We ended up with a good lineup across a range of vintages. Some of them were received very well, while others were less impressive. I know that, at least for my palate, the lack of familiarity certainly limits my understanding and appreciation of what's going on. We had a great root vegetable stew on hand that worked well with the darker flavors of the Amarone, and the best examples showed full tannins that were approachable. The group was very divided on their favorites, which is an interesting testament to our different levels of experience, and the range of styles presented.

• 2006 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella 86 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  Blackberry fruit shows on the nose along with full stem scents that remind me of Cabernet Sauvignon. A bit of brown sugar shows, and the nose suggests a feeling of round richness. On the palate, it starts out like the Cab mentioned on the nose. Full acidity and stems show with the blackberry fruit. Acidity dries things out fully on the finish, and there is a noticeable green note that disrupts things a bit for me.

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• 2006 Vaona Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Paverno 87 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose shows full and ripe plums with figs and some brown sugar. There's an interesting scent that reminds me of reeds growing in shallow water on a lake, a bit of mineral mixed with a bit of green. Full tannins coat the mouth, and they linger long with a decent feel to them. Red cherries show early, and plums show on the mid palate. As the tannins build on the finish, the oak shows itself fully as well. I like the mid palate, but the tannins are still pretty big, and the finish suggests that it should sit for a whiel longer.

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• 2004 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 89 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose is dark, showing scents of plums and a touch of raisins. Some light asphalt shows as well, with rose petals providing a touch of brightness that makes it pretty inviting. It's balanced and approachable already. It's light on contact with the palate, showing good cherry and plum flavors on the middle. The fruit fades into some great acidity, and the tannins stay just friendly enough to avoid causing any trouble while they dry everything out.

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• 2003 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 87 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Apples, black earth, and caramel show on the nose along with a bit of heat. Full and juicy cherries show on the palate, with a bit of Red Vines candy. The tannins are even, but the finish is still a bit hollow as the acidity dries everything out.

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• 2000 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose is very savory, and it shows tomato stew with plenty of basil and balsamic vinegar for spice, and a few dark plums for a nice touch of fruit. It's even on the palate, showing plums and good acidity early. Chocolate flavors settle in later while the acid is slow to dry, delivering apple sensations lingering on the pleasant finish. 90-

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• 1999 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose shows dark cherry fruit, mixed with caramel and a bit of sea spray. On the palate, it shows a lot of character reminding me of soft, tasty raisins. A hint of vanilla appears early on. The tannins are clean, full, and refined. The acidity lingers long, and the mouth feel is round and even all the way across.

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• 1999 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron 87 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose is heavy and complex, like a heavy salad with kale, some balsamic vinegar, and a few cherries mixed in. The structure is even, and cherry flavors show fully. The acidity is nice, but some heat shows itself toward the finish as well as a touch of something green.

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• 2003 Masi Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Serègo Alighieri Casal dei Ronchi 89 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico

  The nose is super heavy, showing concentrated and dark cherry scents mixed with deep mint, a touch of caramel, and some faint tomato scents. Juicy cherries and dried plums show on the palate, along with some tasty raisins. A bit of maple syrup appears toward the finish as well. Despite the dense character, the acidity is still big and enjoyable. The tannins are full and even, and the alcohol is noticeable, but it remains in balance due to the size of the other components.

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The group's favorite was the 04 Masi Costasera, with the 2000 Allegrini and the 1999 Masi Mazzano tied for second place.