The Wines of Gevrey-Chambertin
Brooks Hotel, Dublin
Tasted Monday, February 21, 2011 by Eating is Cheating with 687 views
Introduction
This was a blind tasting.
Brooks Hotel, Dublin
Tasted Monday, February 21, 2011 by Eating is Cheating with 687 views
This was a blind tasting.
2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A garnet/ruby colour, quite matt in tone (not glossy). Slightly muted nose of strawberry and red cherry, plus something darker too - clearly this is not a very young wine. Quite a dark palate - some black fruit as well as the red. A little tannin, but the fruit is still showing well. Good balance and acidity; plenty of freshness. Long (for a village wine). Very good in my view, although there are some dissenting voices.
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1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A similar colour to the first wine, perhaps slightly darker. More concentration on the nose however: a good weight of maturing fruits and also a sous-bois element. Elegant palate, but with quite some concentration. Quite tannic too: I thought perhaps this was a 1998 until it was revealed as a 1999. A dry, minerally finish; also some tannin. Very good: I prefer this to the first wine (as do most others).
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1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A deeper, blood-red colour, pinking slightly at the edge. A glossier sheen too: not matt like the first 2 wines. Hints of power and concentration on the nose - dark fruits and pepper, but it might be quite closed. The concentration is hinted at again on the palate, but there is a suggestion that something is still hidden. Good length; minerally finish. Very good indeed: the best wine yet by a considerable margin. It has evolved so slowly that it fooled many people into mistaking it for a much younger wine.
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2000 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Au Vellé
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A deep hue yet maturing, and (in my glass anyway) carrying quite a sediment. A powerful and oaky nose distinguishes this from the preceding wines. Quite a meaty, deep scent. The palate is dark, but somewhat disjointed and astringent - very oaky indeed, oak overpowering the fruit, which is over extracted. Not for me.
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1997 Domaine Heresztyn/Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A medium-deep colour, showing some maturity. A slightly closed nose, but with some elegant fruit. A lovely, complex, integrated palate - deep and well-knit. A lovely tension between freshness and integration/maturity, between lifted purity and earthy tones. Long. Very good indeed.
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1999 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A young appearance with a glossy sheen. The nose is closed, but gives up some dark fruit (quite primary still). The palate is concentrated yet elegant, with lovely balance and good acidity. This seems like it has a long way to go to get to peak. Has potential: quite a lot of oak but the fruit is there to live with it I think. Very good.
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1997 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A much more mature garnet/brown colour. Very unusual earthy and sous-bois nose, almost mentolly, little or no primary fruit. Perhaps something stewed, almost a rhubarb note. Intense and delicious on the palate; long; great acidity gives it lovely lift and poise. The texture is silky/velvety. Long, long. Delicious indeed. The WOTN from a "drinking now" perspective.
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2000 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A lovely luminous medium-red colour. Delicious nose of tinned strawberries, vanilla even. Quite simple though - doesn't have the complexity of some of the preceding wines. Or is it just closed? The palate is slightly lean; perhaps somewhat simple. There is general agreement that this is a very good wine, but currently much less evolved than the others. Lovely purity and great length. I would like to try this again in a few years.
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2001 Louis Jadot Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
A glossy, youthful ruby-pink - deceptive? Slightly closed nose, but it hints at quite a big, dark-fruit composition. Quite a big structure potentially. Rafts of fruit and tannin on the palate - a lot of structure. Pronounced acidity, and the tannins, though substantial, are ripe and fine rather than brutal. Quite a traditional style. Great length. Really very, very good indeed, and still has plenty of room to improve. The best yet tonight.
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2001 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
A lovely glossy deep ruby. A delightful, lifted, fragrant/floral nose, but otherwise a little closed (fruitwise). Tightly wound on the palate: some quite primary fruits, a lot of tannin, good acidity and great linear tension. Minerally and very, very long. Great old-vine sap and grip. Has all the ingredients of a great but it lacks integration as yet. Super.
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