Dauvissat "La Forest" (mainly) Vertical (1995-2009)
RN74, San Francisco
Tasted Tuesday, March 15, 2011 by darvid with 2,002 views
Introduction
Eleven die-hard Dauvissat fans gathered to experience fifteen vintages of La Forest, a subclimat of Montmains, with a special menu organized by RN74 for the occasion. There were some inconsistencies: I was unable to obtain La Forest for every year, and substituted Dauvissat grands cru for 1999 and 1997 as noted below. All of the bottles came from my collection except the 2001 Forest (contributed by drwine) and the 1999 Preuses (purchased from the restaurant's list). All bottles were 750ml except for the 1999 (a magnum of Preuses) and 1998 (a magnum of La Forest). All bottles bore the R&V Dauvissat label except for the 2006 and 2003 Forest, shipped under the Dauvissat-Camus label. As noted below, Dauvissat-Camus cuvees might be produced differently from R&V Dauvissat, notwithstanding the general belief that they are identical.
Flight 1 - First Flight - Dauvissat 2006-2009 (4 Notes)
Served with a savory clam appetizer, followed by a clam and cauliflower chowder with caviar. Three brilliant young Chablis and a bit of a clunker from 2006.
Flight 2 - Second Flight - Dauvissat 2002-2005 (4 Notes)
Served with a black trumpet mushroom pappardelle with grilled lettuce and porcini marmelade. Three rather heavy vintages and one, the 2004, notably light on its feet by comparison.
Flight 3 - Third flight - Dauvissat 1998-2001 (4 Notes)
Served with a seared sea scallop dish that matched the richness of the oldest vintages in this group and contrasted nicely with the more austere 2000.
Flight 4 - Fourth flight (intermezzo) - Two Red Burgundies (2 Notes)
Delirious at the prospect of trying these wines, I asked for an extra course to accompany them. The kitchen knocked us out with a combination of duck leg confit and roasted duck breast.
Flight 5 - Fifth Flight - Dauvissat tragedy 1995-1997 (3 Notes)
Our hopes for the oldest vintages were dashed by a succession of flawed bottles. We consoled ourselves with the remnants of the two excellent magnums and plates of affidelice au Chablis & Aacapella cheeses.
Closing
Despite the problem bottles, the vagaries of vintage conditions, and some variations in format, site, and (perhaps) elevage, we were impressed by the consistency and steady quality that Vincent Dauvissat manages to maintain. A grand cru vertical can't be far behind.
2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
A notably "warm" and sweet aromatic profile. Mouth impression is initially dominated by fruit ripeness, body, waves of acid and a slightly warm finish. After a few minutes the wine tightens up and quinine minerality takes over the midpalate. Very good, potentially excellent, but at least today does not seem to have the promise of the 2007 or 2008.
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2008 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Scents are notably cooler, leaner, and more restrained than the 2009 tasted alongside. The mouth impression too is firmer and more floral, but this vintage offers a succulent quality I liken to SweetTarts (which, by the way, appears more powerfully in R&V Dauvissat's AOC Chablis of this same vintage). Another taster likened the SweetTart quality to the potent but balanced acid-fruit combination in Smaragd Riesling. Of the younger vintages tonight, it would be difficult for me to choose between this 2008 and the 2007, each of which shows spectacular promise in a different way.
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2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Another step in the same direction (i.e., toward Chablis classicism) as the move from 2009 to 2008. The 2007's nose presents the cool nobility of a young Grand Cru, with prominent limestone and acid backbone you can smell before tasting it. Typically for 07s, the body and fruit "berry" impression are only moderate, but here the balance of all elements is perfect and there is a subtle but very persistent flavor impact on the finish. Like the 2008, a potentially great La Forest that needs another five or six years to really unfold.
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2006 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Superficially similar to the 2008 at first blush, but here the balance is off and the almost bitter finish is lashed with somewhat disjointed elements of acid and heat. Widely accounted the least successful wine of the first flight, which might be a bit unfair since 2006 gave everyone in Chablis a bumpy ride, and the '07, '08 and '09 are all so very good. In any event, I would not be surprised to see this one improve with another couple of years, because the underlying material is sound. (N.b. - if, as Don Cornwell states in his post at http://oxidised-burgs.wikispaces.com/Dauvissat%2C+Vincent, there are winemaking differences between the Vincent Dauvissat and Dauvissat-Camus bottlings, the extra barrel time might have made the inherent challenges of '06 more apparent in the final product.)
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