Executive Wine Seminar's: Coche-Dury vs. The Challengers

Tasted Tuesday, November 9, 2010 by Seth Rosenberg with 1,792 views

Introduction

This tasting was designed to see if Coche-Dury lives up to their hype. In 6 blind flights, we would compare Coche wines to other producers from Meursault and see if 1) the Coche wines are better, and 2) if the Coche wines could be identified. The flights would be

1) 3 2005 Meursault Genevrieres, including the 2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres
2) 4 Meursault Perrieres ranging from 2000-2002, including the 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres

The next four flights would be flights of 2 Corton Charlemagnes - Coche-Dury vs another from the vintage

3) 2001: Coche-Dury vs. Bonneau de Martray
4) 2002: Coche-Dury vs. Vincent Girardin's "Quintessence"
5) 2003: Coche-Dury vs. Bouchard
6) 2004: Coche-Dury vs. Leroy

Again, each flight was presented blind

Flight 1 - 2005 Meursault Genevrieres (3 Notes)

A great start. Nice wines and nice to compare three 05's from the same vineyard. I had the Coche nailed, but didn't have the confidence to speak up and argue with some folks who I thought knew more ... Oh well.

  • 2005 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 3 w the 2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Genevrieres and the 2005 Lafon Meursault Genevrieres. Nose: Salty and Nutty with some lemon. With time showed sweet and butterscotch. Mouth: Big, salty, spicy, lemon, very lively. Salty on the finish. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 5/6, Finish: 5/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 1/2 = 15/20 = 91/100. My #2 of 3 for flight. Group's #1 of 3 for flight w 12 votes.

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  • 2005 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 3 w 2005 Boillot Meursault Genevrières and 2005 Lafon Meursault Genevrières. Nose: Biggest nose of the 3, sweet, butterscotch. later showed more brown spice aromas. Mouth: Very citrus on entry, again salty, Very juicy. Really nice mouth feel and great juicy lime finish. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 6/6, Finish: 5/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 17/20 = 94/100. My guess: 2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Genevrieres. My #1 of 3 for the flight. Group's #3 of 3 for the flight w 3 votes.

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  • 2005 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 3 w 2005 Boillot Meursault Genevrières and 2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Genevrières. Nose: most closed of 3, tight, steely, mineral and green apple, a little mint/spice. Mouth: big w lots of thrust. Still steely. Lots of acid. Snappy. Lemon and green apple. lots of minerals. A little sharp at the end and finish. quickly began to show age - like an old wine. Possibly oxidized somewhat. Nose: 3/6, Palate: 4/6, Finish: 4/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 1/2 = 12/20 = 85/100. My #3 of 3 for flight. Group's #2 of 3 for flight w 4 votes

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Flight 2 - Meursault Perrieres (4 Notes)

A solid flight. I wish we had 4 wines from the same vintage, but you can't have everything. Again, the Coche was easy to pick out, but I was surprised at the rating the Roulot ended up with. The Bouchard was a disappointment. 2/2 in picking out the Coche so far ...

  • 2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 4 w 2000 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres, 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres, and 2002 Roulot Meursault Perrieres. Nose: Funky and stinky at first, but it blew off. Very nice w glimpses of sweet caramel and butterscotch. Mouth: Nice on palate, very spicy. Excellent finish, balanced but yet long and persistent. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 5/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 17/20 = 94/100. My Guess: 2002 Roulot Meursault Perrieres. My #2 of 4 for the flight. Group's #4 w 2 votes. I guessed Roulot. Looking back I based this on the fact that I like Roulot and I liked this wine, so that's what I guessed, as opposed to basing in on the style, which is not at all Roulot.

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  • 2000 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 79 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 4 w 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres, 2002 Lafon Meursault Perrieres, and 2002 Roulot Meursault Perrieres. Nose: not showing much, except a little age, maybe oxidized? Mouth: Enters soft, a little tired, a burst of spice on the middle end. Finish is OK, again with some spice. Am I missing something that others are seeing? I have not been impressed with Bouchard's low-mid level whites when young. Nose: 2/6, Palate: 3/6, Finish: 4/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 0/2 = 9/20 = 79/100. No guess on this bottle. My #4 of 4 for the flight. Group's #2 of 4 for the flight.

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  • 2002 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 87 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 4 w 2000 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres, 2002 Lafon Meursault Perrieres, and 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres. Nose: Quite closed down. not showing much for now - very tight and chewy. Mouth: Elegant and airy. A little hole in mid palate, but steely, lime, stone. Tight on palate as well. Should improve over time. Nose: 3+/6, Palate: 5/6, Finish: 4/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 1/2 = 13+/20 = 87+/100. My guess: 2000 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres. My #3 of 4 for the flight. Groups #3 for 4 for the flight w 3 votes.

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  • 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 99 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 4 w 2000 Bouchard Meursault Perrieres, 2002 Lafon Meursault Perrieres, and 2002 Roulot Meursault Perrieres. Appearance: Much darker than the other 3 wines. Nose: Huge, spicy nose, popcorn w butter. Salty. I would recognize this nose anywhere - (this is the Coche.) Mouth: Amazing, lemon/lime, spice. Delicious and big on the attack. Huge burst of lemon/spice on finish. Manages to be huge and mouthfilling, but also taut and exhilarating throughout. Near perfect. Nose: 6/6, Palate: 6/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 20/20 = 99/100. My guess: 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres. My #1 of 4 for flight. Group's #1 of 4 for flight w 9 votes.

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Flight 3 - 2001 Corton Charlemagne (2 Notes)

An easy round, the Bonneau de Martray was no match for the Coche, and it was obvious. Maybe I was a little hard on the former, but the Coche was so good, it just dominated. 3/3 in pick the Coche up to this point.

  • 2001 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight with the 2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne. Appearance: Darker than the other wine in flight. Nose: very dark & spicy nose w dark tones. Mouth: Huge. Massive. Spice and brown tones. Great acidity. Huge, perfect finish, ends very spicy. Nose: 5/6, Palate: 6/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 19/20 = 98/100. My guess: 2001 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. My #1 of 2 for flight. Group's #1 of 2 for flight w 17 votes.

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  • 2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 2 w the 2001 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. Appearance: much lighter than the other wine. Nose: more reticent, stone, green apple, orchard and wax notes. Mouth: elegant, but a little oxidized? weak and lacks grip. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 3/6, Finish: 4/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 0/2 = 11/20 = 83/100. My guess: 2001 Bonneau de Martray Corton Charlemagne. My #2 of 2 for flight. Group's #2 of 2 for flight w 2 votes.

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Flight 4 - 2002 Corton Charlemagne (2 Notes)

This flight was a real shocker for me - I was sure I had the wines guessed right, and I was dead wrong. I think this was a poor showing for the 02 Coche Corton Charlie - maybe closed, who knows. But the Girardin was excellent. 3/4 in picking out the Coche blind including this flight.

  • 2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight of 2 w the 2002 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. Darker nose. Spicy again and brown. Mouth: Great zing and acid, brown spices. Younger than the other. I'm guessing Coche. Greener than other Coche's but just due to great 02 year - needs more time. Nose: 5/6, Palate: 5/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 18/20 = 96/100. My Guess: 2002 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne/ My #1 of 2 for flight. Group's #1 of 2 for flight w 17 votes. I was sure this was the Coche, shows what I know. It blew the Coche away regardless. My first miss on the Coche in the first 4 flights.

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  • 2002 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight w the 2002 V. Girardin Corton Charlemagne "Quintessence". Nose: Alcohol, apple, calvados - then showing more caramel. Mouth: Big bruiser on palate, with heat in the middle. Not elegant. showing green apple, alcohol and oak. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 4/6, Finish: 3/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 0/2 = 11/20 = 83/100. My Guess: 2002 Girardin Corton Charlemagne "Quintessence". My #2 of 2 for flight. Group's #2 of 2 for flight w 2 votes. This was a disappointing showing for the 02 Coche CC - the Girardin blew it away.

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Flight 5 - 2003 Corton Charlemagne (2 Notes)

Definitely the low point of the tasting. Just more evidence that the 2003 white burgs are overripe and not at all what a serious burg drinker is looking for. The mediocre Coche was easy to spot here, since the Bouchard was just awful. 4/5 guessing the Coche.

  • 2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine 75 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight w the 2003 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. Green nose, a little steely and floral. Nasty on the palate - floppy and lots of vibration, really bad mouthfeel - over ripe with no focus. Very soft. Just horrible. The Coche was better, but what a condemnation of the 2003 white burgundy vintage these two wines were. Nose: 3/6, Palate: 2/6, Finish: 2/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 0/2 = 7/20 = 75/100. My guess: Bouchard. My #2 of 2 for flight. No group rating noted.

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  • 2003 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 80 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight w the 2003 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne. Smells Like Coche - spicy and brown in register. Also roasted aromas here. Sweet and juicy on entry, but some floppiness on the mid-palate. The oomph covers over the flaws of the vintage a bit. Still I hate the 03 white burgs with a passion. I can't imagine paying the cost for a Coche Corton Charlie and ending up with this. Nose: 4/6, Palate: 3/6, Finish:3/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 0/2 = 10/20 = 80/100. My Guess: Coche. My #1 of 2 for flight, didn't get the group rating.

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Flight 6 - 2004 Corton Charlemagne (2 Notes)

Maybe the flight of the night, and what a relief after the horrible 03's. Of course, when you have Coche vs. Leroy, you expect fireworks, and we got them. Incredibly racy and vibrant wines - a real joy to drink and compare. Again, I did not nail the Coche here, but at this level or quality, it was hard to tell. The Coche, was my favorite, however. 4/6 for guessing the Coche blind overall.

  • 2004 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 100 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight w the 2004 Leroy Corton Charlemagne. On nose: Lots of lemon, slate and minerals. Amazing purity on palate, lemony. Chewy on finish with some dark and very lemony aspects.
    Nose: 6/6, Palate: 6/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 20/20 = 100/100. I guessed Leroy based on the purity. My #1 of 2 for flight, the group's #1 of 2 for flight w 14 votes.

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  • 2004 Domaine Leroy Corton-Charlemagne 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Tasted blind in a flight w the 2004 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne. Very smoky and spicy nose. Quite pungent. Oak and Vanilla. Same on palate, dark brown, sweet, almost caramel. Great acid on finish, and spicy as well. Nose: 5/6, Palate: 5/6, Finish: 6/6, Je ne sais quoi (wild card): 2/2 = 18/20 = 97/100. My guess was the Coche. #2 of 2 for flight, group's #2 of 2 as well w 6 votes.

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Closing

An amazing tasting, with some great wines, as you can see from the scores. Highlights were definitely the 2001 Coche Meursault Perrieres and Corton Charlie, and the 2004 Coche and Leroy Corton Charlies. Those 4 were worth the steep price of admission right there. I ended up 4/6 guessing the Coche, which is pretty good, considering that I picked it out in the larger early flights. In my mind, no doubt that Coche is one of the finest White Burgundy producers, if not one of the great few winemakers in the world.

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